My car stalled out on me while driving. It would crank but not turn over. My mechanic couldn't figure out was wrong. He went through all the codes. The key I got when I bought it had issues with starting the engine. I would turn it, all the battery operated things like radio and AC would come on, but it would not start at all, just silent. I would have to turn the key several times and it would finally start. The next mechanic that it was towed do said the car started up just fine for him after sitting overnight. He called Volvo and they said that it is a key issue. The car started fine for a week. When I went to turn it on the next time, it did the same cranking and almost fired up, but did not start. How would a bad key start the cranking but not turn over? I am skeptical about the key causing the problem. I ordered a new blank transponder key from Amazon anyway because the top of the rubber part of the original key broke when I took a serious fall in July. Do y'all think that this is indeed a key issue and not something else?

 

Curious how you intend to get your key copied and how the aftermarket key is going to be "programmed" into the CEM. Most dealers won't attempt to "program"aftermarket keys into a car.

Anyway, your key is probably not your issue. If the starter is spinning the engine over but the engine is not starting on a regular basis - it would be simple to connect stuff (fuel pressure gauge and something to verify the coils were getting a signal to fire) then try to start the car if stored codes or live info did not give you enough clues to work with.

Sorry I understand how frustrating problems like yours can be -

 

They key I got is a master transponder key for the S40 that just needs to be cut and programmed. Funny thing is, after sitting for 2 weeks, it finally started today.

 

As hoonk said, if your key's bad, the car won't crank. And there are approximately a gazillion possibilities that will cause it to crank and not start, or to start badly. Those codes your mech was going through would be the clues you (we) need to determine why.

One common problem that results in a long start is a fuel system leak (most often, one injector) that drains your fuel pressure overnight. This can be checked by turning the key on for 5 seconds several times without cranking the engine. If it fires right up, there's your problem (or at least "the general area of your problem").

 

Thanks for your feedback. I spoke to the dealer and he said that the key may or may not be the problem. I am not spending $300 if it is not the problem. It sat for 2 weeks and fired up right away. I have noticed that the more I drive the car, the harder it gets to start up. Sometimes it will do a half a crank and nothing happens. I have done the 5 time turning of the key and that gets it started. Also, if I unlock and lock the door, it will start. This is the craziest mess that I have ever encountered. Who recommends a Volvo to a widow on a fixed income? I am just beside jmyself.

 

Sounds like your mechanic needs a diagnostic plan. Here's what I'd do 1) make sure the battery voltage is correct. An 80% charged battery will show 12.6V. if the battery is say under 12.2V, lights/radio will come on but the car may not start or turn over 2. Determine the nature of the no start. If the car turns over then the plan needs to consider fuel, spark. If you turn the key to start and get nothing (ie no click, no dimming of the lights to suggest power is going to the starter), you may have an issue with the immobilizer system. This includes the shifter, so turn the key to unlock the steering and shifter and do a "shifter row" (park to lo to park 10-20x fast). This can clean up dirty contacts in The PNP switch in the shifter. If the car thinks the shifter is in gear, the starter won't engage. . Also on the immobilizer theme, considering the car has a replacement key that may not be Genuine Volvo, I'd be concerned that the chip is not making a clean contact to the ignition switch, particularly since you suggest there's an intermittant fail to start. So as part of your no start triage testing, if the car refuses to start/turn over, try wiggling the key to see if you can help make a better contact.

After that, its off to a qualified shop (keep in mind while the dealer may cost more per hour, they have all the proper tools and factory support when it comes to diagnosing odd problems. So I'd expect the shop to do the following. If the car turns over but won't start, check for correct fuel and spark. Make sure the car has gas in the tank! (its possible to have a wonky fuel level sensor) The mechanic should test for fuel pressure "at the rail" (the silver bar across the front top is a cover for the fuel injectors/fuel rail ) - there's a valve on the end where a pressure guage can connect. Next is to test for spark. The S40s have an odd set up where there are two coils for four cylinders - the tech can simply put a loop meter on the two spark plug leads to see if both coils are firing. These cars are known to develop cracks in the wiring harness to the coils which can dull or kill the spark. The car may also have basic electrical issues so the mechanic may need to check fuses/relays etc to make sure when you turn the key on, all components/sensors are getting voltage. Finally the shop will need to run a complete set of diagnostics to see what signals the computers are seeing that could possibly cause the no-start condition.

Without following a plan, the shop may wind up throwing parts in the car hoping to find the root cause, which is a "better to be lucky than good" approach that is likely to cost more in the long run. If the simple checks I've suggested don't yield any results and your mechanic has already failed to diagnose the problem, I'd suggest you find a qualified shop that is experienced with Volvos (ie a dealer).

 

I would not recommend a 22 year old Volvo to anyone that can't fix the car themselves. That particular Volvo is a joint venture between Mitsubishi? and Volvo. It Has SOME Volvo technology in it and was only made for 5 years 99-04.

Unfortunately It may be difficult to find a qualified service provider for a 22 year old car.

 

+1. We still have our 2000 S40 in the family and I regularly bump into those typical gen 1 and 2000 era Volvo issues. Example - just replaced the PNP switch, before that it needed the TCM contacts cleaned and reseated, next up is the center muffler which needs to be replaced (dealer part is discontinued), I'm waiting for the the next spring to break an end off (done 3 so far). I'm not sure if the car is making full boost as it seems low on power but there's no CELs and it gets decent mileage so I'm leaving that alone. Car has only 125K or so miles too...

 

Thank you for your input. I appreciate it.

 

Wow. I really am upset now.