Hey everybody,
Looking for advice on replacing my REAR wheel bearings. Just had the fronts done about a month ago when I brought it in for the horrible roaring noise, and it got softer after they were replaced but I think the rears need to be done because the noise is back, louder, and in the rear from what I can tell. Tires are 18 months old, so i dont think its the tires.

Looking through what I have found, it seems the hub needs to be replaced and that the bearing itself can not actually be replaced as an individual piece.
I have also noticed there is a discrepancy as to whether the rear requires a two piece replacement (like the front) or a one piece replacement.

I guess im just wondering:

Whether i need a one or two-piece part?
Is it difficult to replace?
Do i need specialized equipment?

And any other tips you guys may have!
Thanks in advance...

 

I could be wrong because when you go on the internet to look at the parts, sometimes all you get is a generic picture. The rears appeared to be one assembly but the fronts were either two pieces or they were showing the front and rear of the same assembly as two pictures. One of the pictures shows the spline.

More importantly, I have no way to know what it should cost to replace the rears or the fronts. At 140,000 miles the right rear went on me. The dealer wanted $590 to replace it so I went to a local shop and they wanted $480.00 to replace it. I went with the local guy but I doubt I got OEM parts.

I priced the part online and saw anything from $53.00 to $173.00 and every picture was different so I have no clue. I am also annoyed because the local guy ended up charging me $240 for the part and $34 for shop supplies and hazardous waste removal. Shop supplies? Like what, paper towel and hand soap? Labor was $190.00.

I am curious about the hazardous waste removal part because this would imply that brake fluid was lost as part of the process but I don't see why. I would think all you have to do is swing the caliper out of the way and replace the part. Maybe they had to remove it? And if so, what are we talking here, a small amount of lost brake fluid costing $34 for disposal?

And the time to perform the labor was never specified on the invoice so I don't know what they charged per hour. Not happy because I am sure the other three will go, one-by-one in the very near future. It is my opinion that I was overcharged for the part and the hazardous waste removal.

Then I found out the oil trap/oil filter assembly needs to be replaced and I have read by others that this part was defective so Volvo had to increase the warranty to 10 years or 120,000 miles. Nice.

I would be interested to know what your experiences were with the wheel bearings. This is my first time as I never kept a car long enough to have one go bad.

 

I replaced it, took 45 minutes in/out. I think the hub I got was around $100-$115. No waste removal, just get rid of the old hunk of metal.

Remove the wheel, brake caliper, and caliper bracket. Remove the brake disc if you can, mine was rusted on but I had some Diet Coke handy and that got it off after a brief soak . Normally I use PB blaster but that wasnt handy.

There are 4 bolts that hold the hub from the inside, I think they are hex or torx, dont recall exactly. Get some extensions and you can take them off from way past the strut and suspension parts, otherwise they are difficult to get to. There is also a harness that you disconnect, and then the hub comes right out.

 

I had mine into the dealer several times a few years ago with noise what sounded like bearing noise. They said the bearings were ok. I had replaced the tires (Michelin Pilot Exaltos) and still had noise. Last year I replaced the tires with Continental ExtremeContact DWS and the noise is gone. I do have a lot of rear camber (-2.4 deg) which may contribute to noise with some tires.
Stan

 

Curious, why so much camber? Have you adjusted the suspension?

 

No, that is just the way mine is. The rear camber is not adjustable unless you replace the upper control arm with one that is adjustable. These cars tend to have a little negative camber on the rears for better handling. Mine is right at the limit at -2.4 deg. I plan on replacing my shocks and struts at come point and will likely install an adjustable arm at that time.
Stan