It's my daughters car and I can't get to it again till Saturday so I am going to mess with the pressures again at that time. I realize that I need to rule out the fuel pump first, but can you think of anything related to the changing of the timing belt and hub assembly that might lead to this problem?

 

Mistakes do happen but it should not act as you describe. If the cam timing is off by a tooth then it's going to act the same all the time. When I messed up my cam timing on my 2001 it took longer than normal cranking times to start. After the 2nd start the check engine light would come on.

 

OK, I messed with it today and was able to get a fuel pressure gage at Auto Zone for the fuel rail. When the car is running, it is right at 55 psi give or take. As soon as I shut it off, it starts to drop immediately, down to zero in about 2 minutes. There is no fuel leak. My daughter mentioned that it is getting more and more difficult to start. Now, here is the strange part, I wanted to test the fuel pump as you have suggested, keeping in mind that we are at zero pressure to start at all times it appears or close to it, and I turned the key on to position 2, not cranking the engine, and there is no reaction at all on the gage, the pump is doing nothing. So I tried something else. Not depressing the clutch, but turning the key to position 3 and holding it there like I was starting the engine. I immediately hear the fuel pump come on and the pressure starts to build up to about 50 if I wait about 30 seconds and hold the key in position 3 against the spring. As soon as I release to position 2 on the key, the pressure starts its way back to zero. Position 2 is not keying up the fuel pump. unless the engine is actually running.

Anytime there is like 30 psi, the car will start right up. So if there is supposed to be a standing pressure in the rail, whatever is bult into the pump to keep the pressure up has failed from what I can deterimne. If this is not the PEM, the pump itself must be bad?? Also, while messing with the fuel rail attachement, I dropped a tool down behind the airbox, between it and the engine block. I really need to remove the airbox assembly from the engine to get to it. I see there are two bolts that have rubber insulators that hold the airbox to the block, and you have to remove some of the air tubing and airfilter... The two bolts are hex and you have to remove from the back side it appears?? It is a pain in the butt and I ran out of time so she had to take the car and leave. Is this the only way to remove the airbox so I can see behind it? Thanks in advance for you assistance.

 

I think you have found the problem in the fuel pump. Specifically, a failed bypass valve.

From VIDA:
The by-pass valve also functions as a non-return valve, ensuring that the fuel pressure in the system is maintained when the engine is switched off. There is high pressure before the engine is started.

I've not removed my air filter housing on the 2005 so I can't help there.

 

Yep, sounds like a bad pump.

The air box isn't too hard to move, but fully removing it is more tricky because you have to unbolt the motor mount under the coolant reservoir and raise the engine/transmission with a jack and block of wood. Remove the plastic duct going to the air filter. Remove the ECM cover and disconnect the ECM. Remove the hoses for the brake vacuum pump. Loosen the clamps on the plastic duct from the throttle. Remove the T30 screw on the back side of the housing and unclip the plastic piece from under the ECM and the whole thing pulls up.

 

Yeah, gonna get a new pump. As for the tool I dropped, easier to buy a new tool then mess with all that and end up swearing up a storm. I'll try to just take out the T30 and see if I can move it enough to get my hands back in there to see if I can feel it. Other than that, it's gonna stay put and may have already vibrated out of the hiding place and found a home on the side of the road somewhere. Everyone, thanks fo your help. I will advise if thise took care of it once completed. Finger crossed.

 

Final UPDATE!! I got sick of screwing with it, went on ebay, found a pump for $75 out of the same year S40 with 51k on it. Paid someone labor only to R & R the gas tank and viola!! It's now working like it is supposed to. So I took the $275 chance and it paid off. What a pain, but glad it is working correctly now.

 

Just changed the ignition in my 05 volvo s40 and won't start put all old stuff back in and she turns over but wont start got fuel pressure only thing I did was change the ignition no msgs no codes just turns over wont start

 

Not sure why you added your problem to a six year old thread. best to start a new thread with a title appropriate to your issue. When you say you changed the ignition, are you saying you replaced the coil packs and plugs? did you check fuses and voltage going to the coil? Any sounds of near starting which may suggest some but not all coils are firing? Not sure if its possible to cross wires on your model like in the old days but I'd double check the firing order just in case.