2007 Volvo S40 No power, won't start, battery is good.
I'm new here so hopefully I'm doing this correctly. Car was working fine my wife was backing out of our driveway when she realized the emergency brake was on. She put her foot on the brake and released the E-brake. Continued to reverse, put it into "drive" and got a few feet before car completely shut off. The panel briefly displayed something about "immobilizer" then it displayed something about "security system repair" (her exact words). So now when you put the key in absolutely nothing happens. No lights no start, no crank no power what's so ever. And the key gets stuck right before #1 position. If I jump start the car I can get the key out and I'll get power to roll up windows, lock and unlock the car, radio....... And Itll start sometimes but then die out soon as I pull off the jumper cables. Leaving me back at square 1 with nothing working again and key stuck again. I'm assuming it's some kind of Killswitch or safety shutoff but idk. Please need help
I would suggest charging the battery fully to see if the power and lights work as normal. Then start the car to see if it runs fine until the battery is drained. If the alternator isn't working the battery will only run the car as long as the battery voltage lasts.
Tried jumping it with other vehicle and it turns on as long as cables stay connected. Soon as I disconnect the cables the car slowly shuts off
So I'm assuming it's possible for both to "die" at or around the same time? I'm sorry I know very little about cars. I just don't wanna get ripped off if & when I take the car in. Thank you kind sir I appreciate the help
You really can't be positive which (battery and/or alternator) is dead without a tiny bit of diagnostics. If you have a voltmeter (or can scrape together about $10 to buy one at Harbor Freight, unless they're giving them away again), you can put it across the battery. If it's under 11 volts or so, throw a charger on it. If it doesn't come up to over 12 volts after being disconnected from the charger, you know that the battery is shot. If it DOES come up to 12-12.5 volts on the charger, and starts and runs, then measure the voltage with the car running. It should hit at least 13.5-14.5 volts soon (might take a while depending on the state of your battery). If not, you have a bad ALTERNATOR (originally mis-typed "battery").
These are easy tests, done with a device that virtually every car owner should have. Or you can have blind faith in a random mechanic. I know which I prefer... ;-)
These are easy tests, done with a device that virtually every car owner should have. Or you can have blind faith in a random mechanic. I know which I prefer... ;-)
Last edited by habbyguy; Aug 14, 2020 at 03:33 PM.
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