2009 volvo s40 2.4L pzev engine
#1
08-09-2023, 01:56 PM
2009 volvo s40 2.4L pzev engine
hi all!
Ive been having some issues ever since I bought my 09 s40 a year ago, i got it at 145k and it is now at 161k. ANY help anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated!! and may help some others since i've seen soo many threads about similar issues with this model but no clear answer. I absolutely love this car and don't want to get rid of it but at this point, I am dumping way to much money into it... Any advice I can get on what to do would be a big help, thank you in advance!!!
First off I want to say that since I bought the car I have burnt through oil and coolant, continuously and Bad!!
I found out about a month ago I had a tiny leak in my oil tank that my mechanic had sealed off with JP Weld. since then I haven't had a leak but I can definitely smell the oil burning while I'm driving. Ive been told that volvos naturally burn oil that but i still feel like there may be an underlying issue, I usually have to top off with a quart sometimes more 1500-2000 miles in after an oil change, does that sound right?
For the coolant.. this has been an everlasting issue lol My main radiator hose that runs to the engine bay blew as I was driving a month after buying the car, replaced that drove fine for a week and then the hoses running from the engine to the fire wall blew a month after that while driving aswell.. replaced those ones too. I was told everything was all good.. but everything was not all good lol
Not long after having both repairs done I noticed I was still filling up my coolant reservoir tank once a week .. My mechanic said he had didnt know why after running tests but said since its a slow leak in the reservoir with no visible coming from radiator or hoses it should be fine and not too worry. Months go were in the cold months of winter im using my heater more and the coolant is disappearing every other day with no visible leaks.
Take it back to the shop they say i have a leak in the radiator.. wanting to just be done with the repairs i said go for it knowing summer was coming too and i would NEED AC. coolant levels were great for a couple of months until now we are in summer and my reservoir tank needs a refilling multiple times throughout the week .
I have changed the Hoses and radiator , had a flush, only use the coolant designed for my car and I'm still loosing coolant somewhere in the car. The only thing I can think of is the reservoir tank, there is a slight crack that doesn't show any leaking but i have read that from the pressure while driving it can still cause coolant to escape out of it. My mechanic does not think its that and says its something that doesnt matter and believes its my head gasket...
Does anyone have any ideas on what it could be or had similar experiences ? Both of these issues have gotten worse with the heat and my engine sounds like its constantly straining while I'm driving.
A couple of days ago a check engine light had appeared on my car while accelerating RPMs .I was having issues with the car not wanting to go once hitting 2000 rpms and feeling sort of "sluggish" , this has happened to me before when there was a bad rain storm. My car said "down shift" and then stalled. shut off the engine, turned it on, all lights went away but the rpms were bouncing like crazy for a couple of days. My mechanic said my plugs were fine, probably just got wet and needed to dry. (this is a constant occurrence in my car whenever it rains or i go through puddles the car jerks/lags/stalls )
Couple of mornings after , plugs everything was definitely dry. The car stalls on start and the dashboard is lit like a Christmas tree, key , battery dies, key stuck in the ignition. I jump the car my dads able to get it running and it just sounds horrendous plus a rotten egg smell coming from the exhaust pipe.
NOW 100% positive something is wrong still thinking it was my plugs but now I have this smell added on.
I have it towed to the mechanic, i'm told the catalytic converter is fine, and that i'm pulling multiple misfire codes and need new spark plugs and coils but not knowing which ones are bad he insisted on having to change them all.
Had them changed, was expecting the car to run like a beauty.. left the shop and i could still feel the hesitation and lack of power while I'm driving, but it wasnt to bad
Now im currently still dealing with this issue but it has gotten worse.. every time i try to go over 2000 Rpms the car just does not want to go. The check engine light had came back after accelerating the other day and had went limp mode on me. The car took itself out of limp mode (dont ask me how lol) . The check engine light has been an intermittent one for the past 2 weeks reading that im still having multiple misfires. Ive brought it back to the shop 4 times since having them replaced and they claim it is not the plugs or coils, clearing my light and sending me on my way. insisting it is the head gasket
Two days ago I took the car 10 minutes up the road , check engine light was on prior to driving (as its been on and off) there was no low oil or low coolant, temperature gauge reading did not show the car was overheating on the dash but when i parked i could see smoke coming from the hood, popped it open, smoke was right behind the engine bay. Got back in the car 20 minutes later, it stalled, shut it off turned it back on and the CEL is off and car ran fine. This does not make any sense to me..
Every time the check engine light comes back on, I have the codes read, and im getting the same codes:
Power Train System
P0300 random misfire detected
secondary DTCS
0192 : gear selector module faulty signal
Anti-Lock Brake System
0115 communication between control units/ communication problems
Ive seen a lot of things relating back to the ECU unit as well, Is there any sort of upgrade or system service that needs to be done on the ECU unit ? I havent had any electrical services or anything related to that done on the car since i have bought it. Could that itself be causing performance issues?
I also checked my fuse box yesterday all the fuses were intact none were split but I did notice i was missing the fuse that controls my climate unit??? in the owners manual it says that the fuse is in use but its not in my car and im assuming it hasnt been in my car since i originally bought it unless a shop just yanked it out but weirdly enough i didn't even see the wires that would connect to the fuse.
Any ANY help on any of this issues or ideas would be so greatly appreciated!!! I've put in wayy to much money into this car, i dont want to get rid of it but im starting to thinks its a lemon
Thank you all so much , kindest regards ~kay
Ive been having some issues ever since I bought my 09 s40 a year ago, i got it at 145k and it is now at 161k. ANY help anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated!! and may help some others since i've seen soo many threads about similar issues with this model but no clear answer. I absolutely love this car and don't want to get rid of it but at this point, I am dumping way to much money into it... Any advice I can get on what to do would be a big help, thank you in advance!!!
First off I want to say that since I bought the car I have burnt through oil and coolant, continuously and Bad!!
I found out about a month ago I had a tiny leak in my oil tank that my mechanic had sealed off with JP Weld. since then I haven't had a leak but I can definitely smell the oil burning while I'm driving. Ive been told that volvos naturally burn oil that but i still feel like there may be an underlying issue, I usually have to top off with a quart sometimes more 1500-2000 miles in after an oil change, does that sound right?
For the coolant.. this has been an everlasting issue lol My main radiator hose that runs to the engine bay blew as I was driving a month after buying the car, replaced that drove fine for a week and then the hoses running from the engine to the fire wall blew a month after that while driving aswell.. replaced those ones too. I was told everything was all good.. but everything was not all good lol
Not long after having both repairs done I noticed I was still filling up my coolant reservoir tank once a week .. My mechanic said he had didnt know why after running tests but said since its a slow leak in the reservoir with no visible coming from radiator or hoses it should be fine and not too worry. Months go were in the cold months of winter im using my heater more and the coolant is disappearing every other day with no visible leaks.
Take it back to the shop they say i have a leak in the radiator.. wanting to just be done with the repairs i said go for it knowing summer was coming too and i would NEED AC. coolant levels were great for a couple of months until now we are in summer and my reservoir tank needs a refilling multiple times throughout the week .
I have changed the Hoses and radiator , had a flush, only use the coolant designed for my car and I'm still loosing coolant somewhere in the car. The only thing I can think of is the reservoir tank, there is a slight crack that doesn't show any leaking but i have read that from the pressure while driving it can still cause coolant to escape out of it. My mechanic does not think its that and says its something that doesnt matter and believes its my head gasket...
Does anyone have any ideas on what it could be or had similar experiences ? Both of these issues have gotten worse with the heat and my engine sounds like its constantly straining while I'm driving.
A couple of days ago a check engine light had appeared on my car while accelerating RPMs .I was having issues with the car not wanting to go once hitting 2000 rpms and feeling sort of "sluggish" , this has happened to me before when there was a bad rain storm. My car said "down shift" and then stalled. shut off the engine, turned it on, all lights went away but the rpms were bouncing like crazy for a couple of days. My mechanic said my plugs were fine, probably just got wet and needed to dry. (this is a constant occurrence in my car whenever it rains or i go through puddles the car jerks/lags/stalls )
Couple of mornings after , plugs everything was definitely dry. The car stalls on start and the dashboard is lit like a Christmas tree, key , battery dies, key stuck in the ignition. I jump the car my dads able to get it running and it just sounds horrendous plus a rotten egg smell coming from the exhaust pipe.
NOW 100% positive something is wrong still thinking it was my plugs but now I have this smell added on.
I have it towed to the mechanic, i'm told the catalytic converter is fine, and that i'm pulling multiple misfire codes and need new spark plugs and coils but not knowing which ones are bad he insisted on having to change them all.
Had them changed, was expecting the car to run like a beauty.. left the shop and i could still feel the hesitation and lack of power while I'm driving, but it wasnt to bad
Now im currently still dealing with this issue but it has gotten worse.. every time i try to go over 2000 Rpms the car just does not want to go. The check engine light had came back after accelerating the other day and had went limp mode on me. The car took itself out of limp mode (dont ask me how lol) . The check engine light has been an intermittent one for the past 2 weeks reading that im still having multiple misfires. Ive brought it back to the shop 4 times since having them replaced and they claim it is not the plugs or coils, clearing my light and sending me on my way. insisting it is the head gasket
Two days ago I took the car 10 minutes up the road , check engine light was on prior to driving (as its been on and off) there was no low oil or low coolant, temperature gauge reading did not show the car was overheating on the dash but when i parked i could see smoke coming from the hood, popped it open, smoke was right behind the engine bay. Got back in the car 20 minutes later, it stalled, shut it off turned it back on and the CEL is off and car ran fine. This does not make any sense to me..
Every time the check engine light comes back on, I have the codes read, and im getting the same codes:
Power Train System
P0300 random misfire detected
secondary DTCS
0192 : gear selector module faulty signal
Anti-Lock Brake System
0115 communication between control units/ communication problems
Ive seen a lot of things relating back to the ECU unit as well, Is there any sort of upgrade or system service that needs to be done on the ECU unit ? I havent had any electrical services or anything related to that done on the car since i have bought it. Could that itself be causing performance issues?
I also checked my fuse box yesterday all the fuses were intact none were split but I did notice i was missing the fuse that controls my climate unit??? in the owners manual it says that the fuse is in use but its not in my car and im assuming it hasnt been in my car since i originally bought it unless a shop just yanked it out but weirdly enough i didn't even see the wires that would connect to the fuse.
Any ANY help on any of this issues or ideas would be so greatly appreciated!!! I've put in wayy to much money into this car, i dont want to get rid of it but im starting to thinks its a lemon
Thank you all so much
, kindest regards ~kay
#2
08-12-2023, 09:41 AM
It sure sounds like a bad head gasket. When that happens, the coolant disappears into the cylinders, where it fouls the plugs and causes misfires. Often this is accompanied by a "milk shake" look to the oil (pop the oil filler cap and see if there is any sign of that on the underside of the cap). Other times, the oil migrates into the coolant (where it makes another milky film on top of the coolant in the overflow reservoir).
Another thing that makes this a likely scenario is the overheating episode (those cause almost all leaky head gaskets, by physically warping the cylinder head). Repair is "interesting" (not cheap).
OTOH, there are products that claim to be able to fix a head gasket problem, though I wouldn't trust them on a car I was doing more than commuting locally with. Some do seem to get pretty fair reviews on impartial shopping sites (like Amazon) but I'd consider that a last resort for a car that's not worth a "real rebuild".
Another thing that makes this a likely scenario is the overheating episode (those cause almost all leaky head gaskets, by physically warping the cylinder head). Repair is "interesting" (not cheap).
OTOH, there are products that claim to be able to fix a head gasket problem, though I wouldn't trust them on a car I was doing more than commuting locally with. Some do seem to get pretty fair reviews on impartial shopping sites (like Amazon) but I'd consider that a last resort for a car that's not worth a "real rebuild".
The following users liked this post:
kayvolvo40 (08-12-2023)
#3
08-12-2023, 09:53 AM
It sure sounds like a bad head gasket. When that happens, the coolant disappears into the cylinders, where it fouls the plugs and causes misfires. Often this is accompanied by a "milk shake" look to the oil (pop the oil filler cap and see if there is any sign of that on the underside of the cap). Other times, the oil migrates into the coolant (where it makes another milky film on top of the coolant in the overflow reservoir).
Another thing that makes this a likely scenario is the overheating episode (those cause almost all leaky head gaskets, by physically warping the cylinder head). Repair is "interesting" (not cheap).
OTOH, there are products that claim to be able to fix a head gasket problem, though I wouldn't trust them on a car I was doing more than commuting locally with. Some do seem to get pretty fair reviews on impartial shopping sites (like Amazon) but I'd consider that a last resort for a car that's not worth a "real rebuild".
Another thing that makes this a likely scenario is the overheating episode (those cause almost all leaky head gaskets, by physically warping the cylinder head). Repair is "interesting" (not cheap).
OTOH, there are products that claim to be able to fix a head gasket problem, though I wouldn't trust them on a car I was doing more than commuting locally with. Some do seem to get pretty fair reviews on impartial shopping sites (like Amazon) but I'd consider that a last resort for a car that's not worth a "real rebuild".
I also noticed my horn stopped working today. I checked all my fuses again, all is good. Could there possibly be a ground circuit fail or could the ecu control any of that ?
I don’t know much about cars, just what I have learned from taking care of this one.. lol
thank you in advance!
#4
08-12-2023, 10:19 AM
The horn could be a number of things - bad fuse, bad horn, bad wiring, bad relay, bad "clockspring" in the steering column (try rotating the steering wheel while hitting the horn button - if it comes and goes, that's it).
But that's a little like polishing the brightwork on the Titanic after the "iceberg thing". You need to determine what you want to do about the head gasket. Not going to be easy or cheap.
But that's a little like polishing the brightwork on the Titanic after the "iceberg thing". You need to determine what you want to do about the head gasket. Not going to be easy or cheap.
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