advice for a new '00 s40 owner
#1
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Hi all! I'm new to the world of Volvo, having just bought one myself a few days ago. I bought an '00 S40, and I love it. Some questions for those more experienced owners. I am looking at some repairs coming this summer, and I need some advice from you guys.
I need to check the exhaust manifold bolts, because that seems to be a common problem with these cars. How would I go about doing it? Can I just remove the turbo cover to gain access to the bolts, or do I have to remove the turbocharger, drain the cooling system, and everything else the Haynes manual says to do?
My other question comes from a problem I have with starting the engine. It takes some time for it to finally catch and the starter is cranking away for maybe 4-5 seconds unless I give it a little push with the accelerator pedal. This makes me nervous because i really, really don't want to have to replace a starter this summer. I've read that it could be a fuel pressure regulator going on me or the idle control valve that is dirty.
I want to point out that I don't have any problems driving the car and its smooth sailing at 65mph, no skips or hesitations. So I'm kinda shying away from the issue being the fuel pressure regulator. That being said, I'd like to clean my Idle Air Control Valve. If I am going to remove it, what's the best way to clean it? Should I use some mass air flow sensor cleaner or will that damage anything inside it, and is my safest bet to just use a cloth?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you,
-Wes
I need to check the exhaust manifold bolts, because that seems to be a common problem with these cars. How would I go about doing it? Can I just remove the turbo cover to gain access to the bolts, or do I have to remove the turbocharger, drain the cooling system, and everything else the Haynes manual says to do?
My other question comes from a problem I have with starting the engine. It takes some time for it to finally catch and the starter is cranking away for maybe 4-5 seconds unless I give it a little push with the accelerator pedal. This makes me nervous because i really, really don't want to have to replace a starter this summer. I've read that it could be a fuel pressure regulator going on me or the idle control valve that is dirty.
I want to point out that I don't have any problems driving the car and its smooth sailing at 65mph, no skips or hesitations. So I'm kinda shying away from the issue being the fuel pressure regulator. That being said, I'd like to clean my Idle Air Control Valve. If I am going to remove it, what's the best way to clean it? Should I use some mass air flow sensor cleaner or will that damage anything inside it, and is my safest bet to just use a cloth?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you,
-Wes
#2
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oh! Another point I wanted to talk about but forgot. The previous owner in all their glory, decided to replace 2 out of the 4 spark plugs. Luckily they were smart enough to replace them with the volvo oem's instead of another brand. I was checking the plugs yesterday and two out of the four were gone, while the other 2 had some life in them. Very strange...
I decided I wasn't comfortable putting them back in like that, so I went to buy some plugs. I did some research, and I know from experience (My father has an '02 s40 as well) that these cars are very, very picky with the plugs you use, especially the turbo models. Both of our volvos have turbo of course, and he replaced his plugs with denso brand copper plugs. He says he has had some misfires every now and then and his engine seems to hesitate sometimes. I decided I would try a different brand. Every auto parts store I went to yesterday as well as the Volvo owner's manual said the same thing: Champion RC8PYP Double Platinum Power were the OEM replacements for this car. I was trying to find bosch plugs but no matter where I went, nobody had them for the s40. I decided I'd bite, bought the champions and put them in. So far I haven't noticed anything, but I haven't actually taken it out on a real drive yet.
My question to you all is this: What plugs do you use? What have you used and would recommend getting/staying away from?
Thank you for all the help!
-W
I decided I wasn't comfortable putting them back in like that, so I went to buy some plugs. I did some research, and I know from experience (My father has an '02 s40 as well) that these cars are very, very picky with the plugs you use, especially the turbo models. Both of our volvos have turbo of course, and he replaced his plugs with denso brand copper plugs. He says he has had some misfires every now and then and his engine seems to hesitate sometimes. I decided I would try a different brand. Every auto parts store I went to yesterday as well as the Volvo owner's manual said the same thing: Champion RC8PYP Double Platinum Power were the OEM replacements for this car. I was trying to find bosch plugs but no matter where I went, nobody had them for the s40. I decided I'd bite, bought the champions and put them in. So far I haven't noticed anything, but I haven't actually taken it out on a real drive yet.
My question to you all is this: What plugs do you use? What have you used and would recommend getting/staying away from?
Thank you for all the help!
-W
#3
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Ok to start off with, do not use the Haynes manual as a step by step how to, in fact, just rip out the specifications pages and throw the rest away!
Never heard of Exhaust bolt problems, unless some one didn't tighten them enough.
Starter isn't causing the starting problem, a starter that is going bad would be slow cranking in cold weather, with a fully charged battery.
incorrect plugs can cause delayed starting. Install some NGK plugs.
Fuel pressure regulator will throw a code.
Never heard of Exhaust bolt problems, unless some one didn't tighten them enough.
Starter isn't causing the starting problem, a starter that is going bad would be slow cranking in cold weather, with a fully charged battery.
incorrect plugs can cause delayed starting. Install some NGK plugs.
Fuel pressure regulator will throw a code.
#4
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I use the NGK Iridium plugs. The gap is very important on a turbo engine and these gap at .028 which is quite small compared to normally aspirated engines.
You can access all the exhaust manifold nuts by removing the heat shield. I had one nut that kept backing off the stud making the car sound like a sewing machine when cold. I finally replaced the stock nut with a stop nut.
You can clean the IAC with MAF cleaner or throttle body cleaner. You will probably need a new gasket though. That little green paper gasket tears pretty easy.
I'm not 100% positive but I don't think the 2000-2004 models had a fuel pressure sensor in order to set a check engine light with low pressure. It would be nice if it did though.
You can access all the exhaust manifold nuts by removing the heat shield. I had one nut that kept backing off the stud making the car sound like a sewing machine when cold. I finally replaced the stock nut with a stop nut.
You can clean the IAC with MAF cleaner or throttle body cleaner. You will probably need a new gasket though. That little green paper gasket tears pretty easy.
I'm not 100% positive but I don't think the 2000-2004 models had a fuel pressure sensor in order to set a check engine light with low pressure. It would be nice if it did though.
#6
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Don't bother with the Bosch plugs. I tried the platinum+4 in my '02 S40 and it ran worse than the old Volvo plugs. After consulting a few forums, the OEM Volvo plug was the way to go. It ran much better. I have been hearing good things about the NGK Iridium plugs too.
I have never seen in any of my Volvos where one plug was worn more than another. I put all new plugs in and see how it goes.
Stan
I have never seen in any of my Volvos where one plug was worn more than another. I put all new plugs in and see how it goes.
Stan
#7
#9
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hua never heard of that. Well with higher combustion temps, a grade or two up wouldn't hurt come to think of it. Standard plugs in a turbo engine might last 25-35k. Iridiums perhaps double that.
#11
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Kidding right?Tell you what.There are actual mechanics here with actual knowledge please take that signature of yours down you aren't fooling anyone.
#12
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I worked in parts for years before my current profession.\
I sold countless sets of regular plugs for turbocharged engines and no one had a problem. The "fancyer" the plug the longer it should last. It does not actually add performance like everybody thinks. Perhaps in certain situations there are advantages. IE racing.
I got full ASE certification in parts.
2 certificates in performance engines
licenced body tech
State inspector
going for 4 ASE tests at the end of the month. Going to get Full Volvo certification in the next few months (its expensive)
I have been everything automotive for 8 years. Sought the best, learned from the best, and am still learning something new everyday.
Oh and im 21. Hi nice to meet ya!
-------------
autonaut >> that is very interesting.
#14
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Thank you for all the wonderful answers everybody! I will let you know the results of the exhaust manifold bolts this weekend when I take a look at it closer. I'm really hoping that's all there is to solving the loud engine problem.
Another question that somebody might have some insight on. My AC doesn't work, and I checked the fuses. The 15 amp fuse was blown, so I replaced it. The compressor still doesn't turn. Anybody know where to go from there? A relay maybe?
-W
Another question that somebody might have some insight on. My AC doesn't work, and I checked the fuses. The 15 amp fuse was blown, so I replaced it. The compressor still doesn't turn. Anybody know where to go from there? A relay maybe?
-W
#15
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There cases on this car when the transistor in the control goes out.It is repleceable on your own using part from radiosack at a cost of like 5 bucks or you can go visit one of those professional shops and get screwed over.Will search for the how to on it on the other site Im member of when I get home.You can search yourself on s40concepts.com as well as Ill get home pretty late.
#16
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Thank you for all the wonderful answers everybody! I will let you know the results of the exhaust manifold bolts this weekend when I take a look at it closer. I'm really hoping that's all there is to solving the loud engine problem.
Another question that somebody might have some insight on. My AC doesn't work, and I checked the fuses. The 15 amp fuse was blown, so I replaced it. The compressor still doesn't turn. Anybody know where to go from there? A relay maybe?
-W
Another question that somebody might have some insight on. My AC doesn't work, and I checked the fuses. The 15 amp fuse was blown, so I replaced it. The compressor still doesn't turn. Anybody know where to go from there? A relay maybe?
-W
Also check wire down on the compressor. Its a white round plug can't miss it. Like wise make sure the wiring is good elsewhere on the A/Csystem (follow the lines) to eliminate a pinched or broken wire/bad plugin.
Do you have an exhaust smell when you open the hood?
#18
#19
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The compressor is being engaged by an electronic clutch and the power for that comes from the control module right?May be its not the transistor itself but the reason I put up that link because there is a suggestion on there to re-solder all the point on the module panel.
Nothing like fixing ghostly electrical problems trough the net.![Smile](https://volvoforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Here you can find the wiring PDF for the car.Good luck.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/volvo-wiring-diagrams
Nothing like fixing ghostly electrical problems trough the net.
![Smile](https://volvoforums.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Here you can find the wiring PDF for the car.Good luck.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/volvo-wiring-diagrams
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