i just test drove a 2007 s40 2.4 sedan and it start to bog down a little bit but it was low on gas and during the drive I had the screen say that the hood was open when it was shut and when the car bogged down the screen said to use a lower gear but I wasn't in manual mode. the 2 codes that came up on my obd2 scanner were PO81C and a P0455 the s40 only has 135k and is flawless body and interior and the owner is asking 1000 obo any advice would be super helpful

 

the P0455 is pointing to the evap system and the P018C is not a typical code for a Volvo but suggests something in the PNP switch per the generic descriptions. The evap codes can get thrown by torn vacuum line (google Volvo J- tube) but I'm wondering if you have a fuel pressure/fuel delivery problem (fuel pressure sensor, fuel pump?). Given the the $1000 price tag, you could still budget 1000 for repairs and still be well below the KBB value for the car ($2500 for a 2007 S40 2.4i in "fair" condition, $3100 in "good"). Sounds like a good deal if you don't mind attending to the repairs.

 

Now THAT is the kind of car I like to buy... one that has a couple issues that has the owner ready to deal. I agree with mt6127 - that's probably a great deal. If I were to guess about the "gear problem", I'd guess that the gear indicator switch needs to be adjusted / aligned, or replaced.

 

i re talked with the owner he admitted that he bought it for his wife last December and hasn't even put new gas in the tank so im wondering if it is a fuel sensor if I bring gas or have him put in fresh gas if the sensor would be ok and also I did read that the po81c could be the neutral safety switch so not sure if what a replacement costs I will re bring my code reader clear the codes and see what it throws

 

The evap code and the bogging could easily be due to old, bad gas. There's some danger in asking the owner to put in new gas though... if it DOES fix the problem, your leverage goes way down. ;-)

I believe the "neutral safety switch" isn't really a separate item in your car, but is just one of the functions of the "PNP" (gear position switch) that's on top of your transmission. I've never had to look at mine, but from what I can recall doing other work in the area it shouldn't be a big problem to swap one out (and it's not a hideously expensive part, either).

 

thanks I just want him to put enough gas in it to properly test drive the car there selling it reguardless they want to rebuild there 2 bmws

 

$1000 budget to rebuild two BMWs? Good luck with that one, seller! ;-) If he uses the stealership shop, that might cover a tune-up for one...

 

i just got back it only bogged don when the gas light came on it drove smoothly up to 65mph and the it does come with new shocks and struts but I found no signs on if the timing had been replaced and he didn't know. plus another thing the fan stayed on for 8 mins after I shut off the car is that normal

 

No doubt you're going to need to do the timing belt - that's not a job someone would forget doing / paying for. ;-) OTOH, I'd bet that at least half of the cars you might look at on the market are due / overdue for a timing belt (and like a lot more).

If it was smooth to 65mph, that's a really good sign that there's nothing seriously wrong. New struts / shocks are certainly a plus (that's one of the things I do to my "road trip cars" when I buy them, along with control arms and usually tie rods / ends).

The fan staying on could be totally normal. 8 minutes sounds like it might be longer than normal, but I wouldn't get my knickers in a twist about that, especially on a hot day after you probably ran it around with the A/C on high.

 

it was 74 here in kingman and I didn't have the ac on at all. The owner said he recharged the ac system but it leaks. Oh one thing when I shifted from D to the manual mode is the display supposed to change or not it just said D

 

fans staying on can be one of a few things ranging from easy to fix (coolant flush, engine coolant temp sensor/thermostat replacement) to moderate (radiator or fan motor/circuit) to hard (head gasket leak ). Head gasket leaks have other symptoms (exhaust gasses in the coolant, hard radiator hoses, consumption of coolant etc) so I'd probably start with the easy and consider a flush, new ECT and t-stat.

 

thanks no after running a total list of parts and I sent them an offer of 600 the found someone to buy it for 1000 but that parts list was so far at 550 minus the fan issue

 

I'm betting that the shift gate (the piece of plastic that the shift lever runs through, and that keeps you from being able to see into the internals of the shifter) was broken. That happens regularly, and because the manual shifting (both activation and up/down shift commands) are completed by moving a magnet (connected to that plastic shift "slide cover") over some sensors. So if you break the shift lever slide cover, you break the manual shifting. The good news - only about $15 and 30 minutes.

 

thank you everyone for the advice that one sold when I went from the bank back to their home but my hunt for an s40 or v50 continues