Has anyone out there with a 2004 S40 2.4 replaced the head gasket and had a valve job done with a good outcome? I've had the head milled l, hot tanked, pressure tested with good results. The cams look good. It looks brand new and so clean. It's ready to go back onto the engine. My son has gotten the special tool to do the timing and set the cam. Please respond -I would really appreciate your input.

 

The 2.4 NA's block and head is pretty common across many models. Sounds like you did the job right and you should expect a good outcome. You can check out Youtube and google for handy insights like bolt torque sequences etc. The only nuance I can think of is in setting the VVT hub's timing so that's worth reading up on.

 

Well it passed the pressure test and been hot tanked and looks brand new but bought a kit through the machine shop a Fel-pro. but the intake gasket was wrong in it and had to get it from another source now the injectors Orings don't look the same and chose to order them online from the dealer who is 45 mins away. I called Fel-pro today and they say they dont make a gasket kit for a 2004 only a 2005 - well no wonder the kit had wrong gaskets in it!! Im just thankful that the valve stem seals, cam seals, head gasket and exhaust gasket were a match. Its got new spark plugs and will change oil filter and oil before starting her up. If anyone has any suggestions they would be appreciated . Has anyone else done head gasket repair and valve job on this car make and model? Did you have a good outcome?

 

did you look at Volvo friendly web stores for gasket kits? FCP Euro, IPD USA are probably the two best known, and then there are dealer web stores which sell the genuine volvo components like Tasca Parts (who do mail order at a substantial discount). What I like to do is search the dealer store web sites first to get a part number since they usually track serial number breaks and part number updates. As to the 2004 vs 2005, most part sites will quote a 2004 parts that match the 2000-2004 "Gen 1" S40s with the 1.9T. Your 2.4 "Gen 2" S40 is technically a "2004.5" due to its early launch but has parts in common with the 2005+ years. I bet if you looked at the kit, you'd only see enough parts for four cylinders not five :-)

 

I so wish I had known this info sooner and thank you. The Fel-pro was highly recommended by the machine shop. I trusted that they knew but I don't think they know Volvo. I still haven't heard from anyone who has done this work on this to hear if it went well with a good outcome or things to look out for. My biggest concern is if doing the valve job will cause a problem for the lower part of the engine.

 

no reason to think doing a valve job will do anything to the bottom end. Assuming the machine shop reassembled with new, guaranteed straight valves and all new guides/seals, they the remaining details are in the head installation.

I've not done any head work on a Volvo but have on other cars but there are some common tips. 1) when you take the lifters out, mark them so they go back in their original locations 2) theres a set process for the head bolt torque sequence. I bet there are vids on Youtube for how to's on the Volvo "white blocks" (ie all the DOHC 4 valve 5 cylinders). 3) line up the crank timing mark before you put the head on (just to know you are TDC on #1). 4) Set the cams to their timing marks before assembly. I believe the marks are on the rear of the cams. Don't know if you need a cam lock tool or not... and there are head pull down tools for the assembly of the head and cam cover. (see vids and manuals) 5) When reinstalling the timing belt, there's a process for loading up the VVT gear, Again google for info and Youtube vids.

The only other thing to look into is the health of the VVT solenoid. they can stick/leak over time so for $80 or so, it may be worth installing a new one.

 

Maybe a bit late on this post, but if the head was warped and it was milled flat to seal, you may find that you wear the cam bearings within just a few (hundred) miles that oil pressure drops severely. I bought a Mitsubishi years ago that this had been done to, and within 100 miles, the timing chain was slapping the housing due to oil pressure so low the tensioner didn't work. You of course have a timing belt, but still need good oil pressure. If the head was not warped, but only fly cut to clean it up, there shouldn't be any trouble.