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Bought S40, first trip blows piston rings, Different head?

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Old May 19, 2021 | 11:44 PM
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Default Bought S40, first trip blows piston rings, Different head?

I found a nice 5spd 2010 Volvo S40 2.4i on Craigslist that i bought for my wife. On the first trip after buying it the car starts losing power and blue smoke comes up from the hood. Oil light comes on and I pull over and turn off the ignition. Oil is everywhere all over an engine I just inspected that had no leaks.

The car never starts again after filling up. I pull the timing belt covers, I find oil coming from the bottom front of the engine. Doesn't look like camshaft seals, pull harmonic balancer and it looks like crankshaft seal or oil pump. No build up of sludge on the engine. Very strange.

Compression test the engine and I am cussing and kicking. Most of the cylinders are under 60 PSI >:0

Start researching replacements for a 2010 Volvo with a B5244s engine as printed on the head.

From what I am reading the B5244s engine only comes in the 03 - 07 Volvos.

What B5244 engine variants can I find on ebay and slap in this car?

VIn Number YV1382MS3A2492150







 

Last edited by NAswede; May 20, 2021 at 12:06 AM. Reason: add vin
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Old May 20, 2021 | 12:15 AM
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For example, I'm looking at this engine, as it is a b5244s engine, it should fit to replace the block in my 2010 s40?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/29251967983...UAAOSwO41aRoI~
 

Last edited by NAswede; May 20, 2021 at 01:19 AM.
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Old May 20, 2021 | 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by NAswede
I2010 Volvo S40 2.4i On the first trip after buying it the car starts losing power and blue smoke comes up from the hood. Oil light comes on and I pull over and turn off the ignition. Oil is everywhere all over an engine I just inspected that had no leaks.

Compression test the engine and I am cussing and kicking. Most of the cylinders are under 60 PSI >:0
These engines generally do not "blow piston rings", They can get damaged from being severely overheated, which can easily happen since there is no low coolant warning system - but you don't mention overheating. I would suspect a cam timing issue causing your lack of compression. How much oil did you need to put in?
 
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Old May 20, 2021 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by hoonk
These engines generally do not "blow piston rings", They can get damaged from being severely overheated, which can easily happen since there is no low coolant warning system - but you don't mention overheating. I would suspect a cam timing issue causing your lack of compression. How much oil did you need to put in?

I put in about 2 - 2.5 quarts. The engine never overheated during the oil incident. Cam timing issue would only happen if the timing belt slipped teeth though? I'm not too familiar with these VVT cams.



 
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Old May 20, 2021 | 10:39 AM
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It shouldn't be hard to check the timing (since the timing belt cover is already off). I do think the slipped timing belt sounds like a likely cause of the problem, with the oil leak coming as a result of some of the carnage inside the engine (seriously whacked valve stem seals).

With any engine replacement, it's always (!!!!) a great idea to get the exact engine - as far as that's possible. Happily, the high maintenance cost of a S40 has put lots of them in the junkyard, so the picking should be easy enough. Dropping in a subtly different variant of the engine will be 98% easy, and you'll lose years from your life working out the last 2%. ;-)
 
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Old May 20, 2021 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by NAswede
I put in about 2 - 2.5 quarts. The engine never overheated during the oil incident. Cam timing issue would only happen if the timing belt slipped teeth though? I'm not too familiar with these VVT cams.
3 quarts low is not enough for oil starvation or the oil light to come on - so the bottom end is probably ok. Your pictures don't show quarts of oil under the car - unless it's further back. An engine with bent valves spins over much faster than an engine with compression - and covers are off so it should just take a few minutes to confirm whether the cams are out of time or not. If they are yours is an inference engine and 99% of the time if the cam timing is off the valves get bent. R&R the head is a complicated job but many DIYers have successfully gotten it done - and yours is easier - there's no turbo to deal with!

In my humble opinion a cylinder head job is a lot easier and cheaper than a replacement engine. Sorry for your troubles.

 
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Old May 30, 2021 | 09:35 PM
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Update. I removed the engine. Shame the garage is not finished yet. It was a pain with this weather.

I'm going to strip down the engine and take it to a local machine shop so they can tell me what I am looking at. I need to know what happened!

Still can't see where exactly it spewed oil from. The subframe is covered in oil.
Need to take plastic off the front of the engine. Oil Pump and camshaft seals are fine. Something above crankshaft seal spewed oil.

Timelapsed the removal from a security camera:



 
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