Hey guys,

I am considering purchasing a 2003 S40 122HP 1783 cm3 with 155k KM on it (around 100k miles).

It seems like a practical, pleasant to drive good looking car. I am able to get it at a good price and it's got full service history with regular maintenance and both the interior, paint etc. are all in very good condition. The water pump and timing belt have been recently replaced and I am also getting new brakes and calipers.

I've only owned Toyota cars up to this point, so I thought I'd ask people more familiar than myself with Volvo cars about two things:

• Is this a good year/engine for the S40 to buy? I am mostly concerned about reliability, performance/fuel efficiency I'm fine with as is.

Is there anything in particular I should look out for in terms of faults or other long term maintenance?

With my Toyotas I have been driving them well past 200k/15+ years with little more than regular oil/tyre/brakes maintenance, and I am wondering if this car too is up to the task, as I would like to keep it for at least 100k+ miles more.

I am looking at buying this car tomorrow. All inputs are appreciated!

Thanks

 

Mine is a 2003 with 180K miles on it. Still going strong.


Is it a cheap car to run...not sure about that. All parts are euro-sourced and you'll find them to be slightly more expensive.


Is it reliable, I'd say yes.


Weak points:
- rear brakes - the integrated handbrake mech sucks which can cause premature wear of pads and discs. (parts $200, labour minor)
- PCV, if you don't monitor this and you let it go, you'll blow your cam seals and you'll be doing another belt change, etc (parts $400, labour high). I'd be tempted to get this job done over the short term.
- VVT, over-engineered part that is prone to failing if you don't take really good care to change your oil very regularly and use good quality synthetic (parts: $300, labour high)
- rear springs: prone to breaking - may not be as much of an issue with the S40 (I've got a V40) (parts $200, labour depends on rust)
- Climate Control Module: if it acts like it's possessed, changing the resistor may fix your issue, if not, you are into some minor soldering of new POTS or a trip to the junkyard or a new $700 CCM
- Upper radiator hose - keep an eye on the three way joint pressure from hood over time sometimes causes it to leak (parts: $100, labour, insignificant)
- Solid brake lines: pop the plastic access hatch off where the fuel filter is located. Make sure that brake lines are not rusting out as they bend upwards. (parts $100, labour - depends on how much of line you replace)
- Driver's side windshield wiper: shake the axle to make sure it is snug. If it's not and there are signs of friction on plastic mounding, replace the linkage (parts: $100, labour minor)


Is it problem free, no, it's got it's ****les. Does it drive way better than a Toyota, most definitely. Would I buy one if I was not willing to do a lot of work myself...not sure.

 

Yes, I would change out transmission fluid. I've done the 3x dump and refill on mine. No problems. I think I did it at 150K miles.

 

Thank you. Really appreciate your insightful reply.
Glad to hear you've found yours to serve you in a reliable manner.

I may have an advantage when it comes to parts, as I actually live in Norway and Sweden is just an hour of driving away. So I am thinking that though labour is likely more expensive that parts will (hopefully?) be fairly cheap (or at least not cost more than most other makes) and easy to source around here.

The driving experience did definitely seem like a huge upgrade coming from a '01 Toyota beater.
Your reply was really helpful in deciding. I'm most likely going to buy it tomorrow if all goes to plan and keep an eye out for the weak points you mentioned.

On another note, having driven 180k on yours, did you ever change the transmission oil? (if automatic) If so at what intervals?

 

Perfect, thanks. Great to know it worked out for you even at that high mileage.

I have namely seen some say that flushes on high mileage can end up causing issues. Though from what I've read this could be due to the filter not getting cleaned properly and releasing a lot of the gunk when the new fluid is introduced.
The 3x refill like you did seems like a good idea. I'll have to look into that, and I'll definitely be looking to change the ATF soon.

 

I'd also add that these cars are prone to having the springs break (like the last 2-3 inches on the end). I would also change all fluids. For the transmission, make sure you use the fluid recommended in the owners manual (I think the 5 speeds use JWS3309 and the 4 speed autos on the 2000s use Dex/Mercon III). Drain/fill should be good enough. You can also do the power steering fluid - again make sure you use the correct fluid type. A turkey baster works to do a similar drain fill there - use the baster to empty the reservoir, fill with new fluid, start the car and do a few lock to lock turns, the stop the car and repeat the drain and fill 2 more times. If you decide to do a coolant flush, best to simply do a distilled water flush - avoid chemical flushes.

 

You can use the Toyota Type IV fluid on your 03. Cheaper than the Volvo branded. Amazon has cases.

Transmission Fluid Drain and Fill DIY - General S/V40 - Volvo V70R