I have searched but haven't found anything like this. 2007 S40 with 37k miles. Check Engine Light came on a week or so ago. I hooked up my OBD II to it to read the codes. It will not communicate with the car (or vice versa). I cannot get the codes, nor can I reset the codes via the OBD II. Any advice as to what it could be or how to get the light to go off? Car is running great.

 

Did this reader of yours ever worked with your car?Do you have power on the OBD port?

 

I have to hold my OBD-II reader in just the right position on my 2001 before it will power on. Works fine on my 2005 and other cars. Go figure.

 

Thanks for the quick replies. I don't recall the OBD II working on this particular car, but it worked on my 2001 S80, and it works well on my 2001 Dodge Ram Cummins. Hudini, I was holding my tongue on the right side of my mouth, but maybe I wasn't holding the OBD right. Give me a clue as to what you are talking about by holding it in the right position. It powers on fine, it just doesn't communicate with the car. I get an error code indicating no communications.

 

These cars use high speed LAN/BUS system in correlation with OBDII (2.0v). MOST (aftermarket) scanners will not work. Autologic, Snap-on Modius, and similar scanners will read these cars.

you may also need the special download for your scanner

find a shop with a Volvo scanner.

 

Thanks for the heads up. There is a shop nearby, so I guess I'll drop by.

 

Oooohh, forgot about that. I have seen the advertisements for OBD-II readers that work with the new CAN BUS systems. Anybody have a favorite one that works with both the older and new?

 

I have the Actron CP9580 and love it. It's easy to use, does everything I want an much more. It can link with your computer, graph real-time sensor data, holds freeze-frame data etc. It also has an internal database that is updated through your computer of millions of successful repairs. When a code is found on a particular vehicle it lists from the most common to the least common fixes for that code in regards to that individual year, make, model and engine size. It is supposed to be for both OBD II and CAN systems. I don't own a new enough vehicle to verify that it successfully links with the CAN systems, but I'll find someone who does and just make sure that it indeed does. It cost me about $150 on Amazon.com. I wholeheartedly recommend this scan tool.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003IOITRG/ref=asc_df_B003IOITRG1883705?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&ta g=hyprod-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B003I OITRG

In addition to this tool I VERY STRONGLY RECOMMEND this book to anyone just diving into diagnostics. It’s very clear and easy to understand while still giving enough of the technical details and theory of automotive computer systems for us geeks to enjoy. Truly a fantastic book.

http://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Dia.../dp/0760328005

 

my scan tool cost 6,000 and another 7000 for the programming. Volvo specific scan tool, does all you mentioned above and a whole lot more. I still haven't figured out how to use all the features yet! Its an Auto Logic. Way better than anything out there I have ever tried. Snap on looks like child's play compared to that scanner.

 

I'm not daft and claiming that the Actron CP9580 is the end-all in scan-tools. If you are a Volvo tech and it’s one the tools you invest in to make you money; your Auto Logic tool makes all the sense in the world. But coming back to the reality of the situation: You’ve spent more on you tool and programming than the VAST majority of us on this forum have spent on purchasing our cars. I was responding to the request for a recommendation from one of our forum members for a scan-tool that we owners and shade-tree mechanics can realistically afford and use. Yours is better without a doubt, but keep in mind who your peers are in this forum, and let’s keep it realistic. Your insight and knowledge (as a Volvo tech) is invaluable to us and we appreciate it, but c’mon my friend; it’s not about who has spent the most money on their tools here…it’s about helping each other find reasonable and feasible solutions to the issues with our Volvos and a $13k tool doesn’t even apply here…

 

there is a $500 or so purchasable CD with the scan software for Volvo cars only 1996-2004. you would need a OBD to usb adapter, forgot the brand name and all, but I was looking at getting that, but the convenience wasn't there for me (needing to boot up a laptop every time I had to use it). I will look and see if I can find it again. I wrote the name of it down, but my home desk, lets just say the desk eats things....

 

But, will this CD work with the more modern CAN systems that Hudini was referring to?

 

that I don't know.

 

The software is available on ebay for cheap, like $20-$30 cheap. The latest is VADIS 2010C I believe. Supposed to work with Windows 7 with the patch. I have 2010B working with Windows XP Pro using a patch I found online.
vadis | eBay

The hardware is a DICE scanner at $175. Available from Shenzhen, China direct:
Wholesale 2012 newest car scanner tool volvo vida dice

The scanner is my next purchase. I'm actually heading to Shanghai on Monday. Hopefully my travels will take me to Shenzhen and I can purchase it direct. Should be fun trying anyways.

 

HELLO..I am new to this site but joined because I am hopeful someone out there might recognize the problem I am having with my 1999 Volvo S70 GLT (low pressure turbo 190 hp). I had been getting P0455 gross evap leak code for the longest time. I checked the purge valve and put a new $50 factory gas cap on the car, etc etc. Paid a ton at a Volvo repair shop to "smoke test" the vacuum line system (showed now leaks) and all with no findings. They are the ones that sold me the factory cap only to have my light come back on before even getting home with the car. Then a few weeks ago, I started having a different problem. The car would run okay cold but when it got warmed up 4-5 miles down the road, the idle would go down to around 400 rpm and start laboring badly (almost dying) and BLACK smoke pouring out the exhaust. Instantly, the check engine light pops a P1171 code. I got the car home, had a spare MAF for it and changed it after reading up on the web some hoping it would solve the problem. Same deal after 4-5 miles. hmmm? So then I start chasing vacuum leaks.. Found a big one under intake that goes to 1 way valve coming off the purge valve line for the EGR. Major rotten and split hose. So I fix it, disconnect battery for 10 minutes or more, touch the pos and neg cables (cause someone said I should) then re-connected and drove the car. It ran PERFECT for 5.5 miles and then this laboring (almost wants to die) idle with all the black smoke out the tailpipe again. Any ideas out there? I have been a transmission rebuilder since 1971. I know my way around a car fairly well but this is really stumping me and I have to believe I am not the only one who has had this problem. Thanks for any help you can lend. PS.. I have also just changed my fuel filter for GP since this all started happening thinking maybe the fuel pressure regulator was telling the computer of some lean condition causing the computer to "limp mode" (if that even possible) and inject more fuel to prevent engine damage. Not sure if that would happen but that's my logic on it. HELP lol Oh. have not had the P1171 code come on at all during these last few idling issue problems.. in fact NO check engine light comes on at all during the "idle laboring problem". Of course, I don't run it very long after this happens and maybe if I did it would trip a code? Hard to run it long at all once this condition takes place though.