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Cleaned Throttle Body....Now car won't start

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Old 10-18-2011, 08:56 PM
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Default Cleaned Throttle Body....Now car won't start

Alright guys, I need help!
So last night I decided to clean the throttle body on my 2004 s40 T5 with the intention to remedy a rough idle. So, I removed the throttle body from my car with much trouble and it appeared to fairly covered in carbon. I cleaned it with some MAF sensor cleaner and removed all of the carbon from the throttle body. I then reattached the throttle body and went to start the car. It started fine and then began to idle even rougher than before. Eventually, it began to sputter and backfire when I stepped on the gas. I turned the car off and went inside pissed off for the night. This morning I went to start it and it wouldn't even turn over and acted like the battery was dead. However, the battery is not dead. In the message window it says "steering wheel locked, try again" but the steering wheel isn't locked. The car clicks once when I turn the key and then nothing.

Interesting, when the key is in the on position the throttle body makes some strange clanking noises and then it begins to make a high pitched whining noise. The check engine light doesn't come on continuously, it just blinks sometimes.

My only thoughts are that somehow the motor in the throttle body broke when I was cleaning it. I have also just realized that I was supposed to replace the gasket when I removed the throttle body, but I didn't. I don't think that would cause all of these problems though.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. I will be towing it into the shop within the next couple days. Unfortunately, I am in an area where no one seems to know anything about working on Volvos.
 
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:06 PM
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I would try charging the battery then trying again. It kind of sounds like your battery is low and not being charged by the alternator. Although it will run on a low battery it begins to act up as the voltage gets lower and lower. Just a wild guess.
 
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Old 02-17-2020, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by yamanloseke
Alright guys, I need help!
So last night I decided to clean the throttle body on my 2004 s40 T5 with the intention to remedy a rough idle. So, I removed the throttle body from my car with much trouble and it appeared to fairly covered in carbon. I cleaned it with some MAF sensor cleaner and removed all of the carbon from the throttle body. I then reattached the throttle body and went to start the car. It started fine and then began to idle even rougher than before. Eventually, it began to sputter and backfire when I stepped on the gas. I turned the car off and went inside pissed off for the night. This morning I went to start it and it wouldn't even turn over and acted like the battery was dead. However, the battery is not dead. In the message window it says "steering wheel locked, try again" but the steering wheel isn't locked. The car clicks once when I turn the key and then nothing.

Interesting, when the key is in the on position the throttle body makes some strange clanking noises and then it begins to make a high pitched whining noise. The check engine light doesn't come on continuously, it just blinks sometimes.

My only thoughts are that somehow the motor in the throttle body broke when I was cleaning it. I have also just realized that I was supposed to replace the gasket when I removed the throttle body, but I didn't. I don't think that would cause all of these problems though.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. I will be towing it into the shop within the next couple days. Unfortunately, I am in an area where no one seems to know anything about working on Volvos.

Hello! Did anything come of this - or did your mechanic have a solve? I have a volvo that’s a few years newer BUT A WILDLY SIMILAR PROBLEM! Even down to the clicking in the sensor. Everyone is telling me its the battery- but it just isnt.
 
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Old 02-17-2020, 05:49 PM
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The problem is a stuck SCL (Steering Column Lock) module. It lives under the steering column and is a fairly common problem. Often taking the key in and out a few times will temporarily "clear" it.

Ultimately, the solution is to remove, clean and lube it (what I did, and it's been fine for years, though I no longer own the car). Or, you can buy a used or new SCL module, but then you have to take it (and the car) to the dealer to program it ($$$$$).

Lots of threads on how this is all done... just look up SCL failure...
 
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