Hey all,
Rig in question is 2007 s40 2.4 with 126,000 on the clock, 5 speed, I bought it at 122k.
Love my little five speed! She's a great little jammer.
Writing today because, lucky me, I just got into nursing school and can look forward to 18 months of daily travel, in and around NYC, at all hours of day and night. Talking everything from bumper to bumper on an incline at 7am, to wide open freeways doing 55 at midnight. Potholes, tight parking spaces, hot summers and brutal winters, and OH YEAH I'll be a broke student, too.

So I want to go into things right. I need the car to last 2 years without catastrophic issues. Looking for feedback on the following:

1.) Current timing belt only has about 10k miles on it, but is about 7 years old. Change automatically and don't think twice? Or, should be good? How long is too long, regardless of miles?
2.) Suspension needs work, and the roads in NYC are famously brutal. I know sky is the limit with suspension, BUT, what are the minimum basics for a reasonable, DURABLE ride?
3.) On hot days parked and starting up, if I turn the engine on with the a/c on I will hear a loud CLUNK after about 20 seconds. Could this be the a/c clutch? If I do the belt can this be done at the same time? Is there some other part to suspect?
4.) There is a mild "clatter" at idle. It's not something most people would notice, but for those of us who have done valve jobs, it is there. Not a knock, a fluttering clatter. If I rev even a little bit, it disappears. Should I seek a tune up?

Other than that she runs like a top, and I would like to get through nursing school and beyond with this car. I don't mind doing things right, and spending the right bucks where they should be spent.

Your feedback is appreciated.
Cheers!

Mattybrews

 

Congrats on the car (and sorry for the location). I'm familiar with both (had a 2006 V50 2.4i, and a daughter in northern Manhattan).

Personally I wouldn't sweat the timing belt. IIRC, the interval is 10 years - at that low a mileage, I doubt very much you'd have an issue (though if they used a no-name belt, the lifespan could be shorter).

The suspension is a question of just how far you want to take it. I think that struts and shocks from KYB are a good deal, not too spendy at all. Ideally, you replace the struts and keep the original springs up front, unless they show signs of rust (that keeps the ride and ride height as it should be). If they look sad, you can get a "loaded strut" which saves work but could change things in ways that aren't ideal. A lot depends on what you can DIY and what you have to rely on NYC wrench-twisters for (you have my profoundest sympathy if that's the case). ;-) Chances are that some of the bushings, control arms and links are pretty worn out. With a car in that mileage range, I tend to just shotgun everything at once so I don't have to do it a piece at a time, which also returns the advantage of a virtual new car ride and handling (as long as THAT will last on those mean streets). Control arms, tie rods and tie rod ends, ball joints, etc. Spend the money once and fuhgeddaboudit.

The clunk is probably the A/C compressor. It's hard to say if what you're hearing is the "normal clunk" or something else, but check the top motor mounts for signs of the rubber deteriorating. They can both cause all sorts of unusual noises, and are cheap and easy to replace.

There is some "clatter" with the engine - you can hear the fuel injectors firing, and if you're listening, the valves doing their thing. These are very robust engines - make sure you do regular oil changes (in that kind of hard duty, I'd suggest every 3-5,000 miles) and chance are you sweet little manual S40 will last you many years, even in that harsh environment.

 

Another NYC alum here... My number one tip: Run 3-5 PSI more in your tires than what your placard shows. I typically keep 36 to 39 PSI (235/45-17 tires) as my pot hole defense. You will probably need an alignment every six months - which can be done when you do summer/winter tire change overs. I'd definately run snows (El Nino winter coming up = more storms ) since you don't sound like you'd get the work from home option on bad weather days. If you are not already running synthetic oil, I'd suggest moving to a high mileage synthetic which will help keep the VVT gears clean and it has seal softeners to help older engines (I run 5W30 high mile synthetic in our 2000 S40 ). Most Gen 2 S40s timing belts are due at 120K/10 years - some of the California engines are actually higher. What you should do is listen for any pulley noises on the accessory belt (aka serpentine belt). If you need any work on the AC compressor/alternator./PS pump etc, definately go with a new serpentine belt and inspect all idlers. Not uncommon for a failed serpentine belt to take out a good timing belt. If you hear scratchy/squeaky suspension noises, have a professional inspection done at your next service. I'd look at the springs to check for any broken ends (like the last 3 inches where the spring fits into the perch or mount / spring seat.). Gen 1 S40s are notorious for broken springs (I've done 3 out of 4 on my son's car).

 

Sage advice all around.
Thank you, gents! I have a few months to get'er straight and I will heed your warnings.

I've always thought of these little 5 cyls as durable, but it's good to hear it reinforced. I often describe the S40 as what would pop out if a bmw 3 series and a honda civic had a baby.

Thanks again!