Hello- I am new to the forum and have been having hard starting issues with my 2005 s40 T5 AWD. I have to crank 2-3 times before the car will start. I have already changed the Fuel Pressure Sensor and Crankshaft sensor. I picked up a Volvo scanner off ebay and I am getting the following codes:

ECM-5100
ECM-6750
ECM-400C
ECM-3100
ECM-3150
ECM-3130
ECM-3110
ECM-3120
TCM-002F

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

 

translations:
ECM-6750 Camshaft control exhaust lock function. Faulty
P0700 -- ECM-5100 -- Malfunction indicator light TCM -- Faulty signal
P0420 -- ECM-400C -- Catalytic converter efficiency, bank 1 -- Signal too high
P0300 -- ECM-3100 -- Misfire, at least one cylinder -- Start-up
P0301 -- ECM-3110 -- Misfire, cylinder 1 -- Start-up
P0302 -- ECM-3120 -- Misfire, cylinder 2 -- Start-up
P0303 -- ECM-3130 -- Misfire, cylinder 3 -- Start-up
P0304 -- ECM-3140 -- Misfire, cylinder 4 -- Start-up
P0305 -- ECM-3150 -- Misfire, cylinder 5 -- Start-up
TCM-002F = Lock-up function slipping or not engaged. This one is saying your AWD differential locking is not engaging or disengaging correctly. First thing to do is to make sure your car has the most current transmission software updates, then check the fluids and consider a refresh. Worst case is the solenoid is bad...

Are there any other clues - ie blinking ABS or TRACS lights?

The misfires are all related to your start up issues. Sounds like you still have a fuel pressure or delivery issue. Could be the pump, relays etc. Next step would be to measure pressure at the rail prior to starting and during the start up and running of the engine.

Dunno about the TCM or malfunctioning indicator light (transmission) and the camshaft control. Could be related to the ABS controller board or maybe you lowered the system voltage during a start up enough to set off some false positives. My suggestion would be to address the start up issue first, clear all codes then see what reappears.

 

Thanks for your reply MT. I don't have any blinking lights on the dash. How would I go about testing pressure on the rail? Could it possibly be the PEM? I read that there was a recall on this year.

 

re testing fuel pressure - there's a schrader valve (ie like on a tire) at the end of the fuel rail for attaching a pressure gauge. There should be a RobertDIY YouTube video on how to test...

 

I checked the fuel pressure and it held steady at 42 while running, but dips to 10 when the car is off and in the run position. Any ideas? Thanks

 

The FPR is controlled by inlet manifold vacuum, so first it is neccessary to understand what happens in the inlet manifold. At startup and at idle the throttle is almost closed. In this situation the engine sucks more air than what is supplied through the throttle. The result is a high vacuum in the inlet manifold.
When driving, the trottle is opened, and the vacuum is low.

Also when idling or at startup there is a low demand for fuel, so the injectors aren't bleeding off a lot of fuel from the fuel rail. This tends to cause fuel rail pressure to increase. To keep a steady fuel pressure in this situation the FPR needs to bleed off a certain amount of fuel back into the return line.

When the engine runs at higher rpm's the injectors bleed off more fuel, so the FPR needs to bleed off less fuel in order to keep an optimum fuel pressure.
In this situation the inlet manifold vacuum is low.

This governs how the FPR must operate.
A high vacuum in the inlet manifold (startup/idle) makes the FPR open more (decreasing fuel rail pressure).
A low vacuum (running at high speed) makes the FPR open less (increasing fuel rail pressure).

In reality the fuel rail pressure isn't increasing or decrasing, it's more like held at a constant value.

Since the pressure is dropping as soon as the engine is stopped indicates a leak through the FPR diaphragm or that the FPR is allowing fuel to be returned to the tank when it shouldn't.

Disconnect the vacuum line and let someone turn the key to ignition-on.
If you see the slightest amount of fuel, the diaphragm is leaking.
Disconnect the fuel return line and turn the key to ignition on.

Since there's no vacuum in the inlet manifold, the FPR thinks the engine is running at wide open throttle. The fuel pump has stopped, so there is no need to bleed off any fuel into the fuel return line. You should see no fuel coming out. Attach a long hose onto the vacuum nipple and suck hard on it, replicating a startup/idle condition. Now you should see fuel coming out through the return line.

If the FPR seems OK then you have a fuel leak elsewhere.
Check the injectors, one or more of them may leak, and check the fuel line also..

 

Thanks Emtor for your detailed reply. Do you happen to have an illustration to identify the correct wires I am looking for? Thanks

 

does the 2005 T5 even have a fuel pressure regulator? - the newer models use a fuel pressure sensor to regulate the pump... The fuel pump also has a check valve which can allow pressure to bleed off - not sure what the replacement part would be or if you'd need to replace the pump assembly. worth searching the boards for any info.

 

It seems like the T5 has a very different fuel system than what I described.
Some info can be found here:
T5 Fuel System (How Should It Work?)