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Rear Shocks and Mount Replacement.

Old Mar 5, 2015 | 11:47 AM
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Corban L Russell's Avatar
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Default Rear Shocks and Mount Replacement.

Hi all, I'm looking at finishing the suspension job on my 2001 s40. I replaced the front struts and mounts a few months ago, now i need to do the back. Both mounts and shocks, but my question is on parts. What is needed to replace the mounts? Looking at Rockauto and can find the right actual shocks just fine, but what is it that i need to replace for the mounts? The mount for the front had everything i needed, but the rear seems to have "Mounting hardware" in addition to "mount components". One looks like the actual mount that gets connected to the chassis, but the other looks like individual rubber and metal pieces? For example :MOOG Part # K160148 and KYB Part # SM5091.
The mounts currently are making the loud clunking sound over bumps, so i can tell they are gone.
Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 03:12 PM
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There's not a lot of bits back there. if you want a diagram with part numbers, try Shop OEM Volvo parts & accessories ? Volvo Parts Warehouse The parts to inspect in the rear are the strut mount and the sway bar end link/bushings. if those bushings wear out/fall out they can create clunks as well. You may also want to replace the bump stop if that's broken as well. I will tell you the hardest part of the repair is removing the trunk lining to get at the top of the strut! Not sure if there's a better way but I wound up removing the clips etc by the rear light and just pushing the liner back until I could get at the bolts. I didn't see the trick how to remove the liner entirely... Also, S40s do break the rear springs from time to time... Usually its the very end of the bottom (like the last 4 inches of the coil) - you wouldn't see it unless you were looking for it...
 
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 06:20 AM
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I disagree - the toughest part has to be dealing with the seized bolt at the bottom of the shock itself!!!! Although to be fair mine is a wagon so access at the top is a no brainer. Seriously though before you go taking the top pieces off have a go at the bottom bolt first to make sure you are able to remove it. I was able to finally force one of mine out with a c-clamp but I think I had to employ the grinder for the other. There is not much space to work with there...this is a job that requires some perseverance IF that f'n bolt won't budge. As I recall you also have to remove the bolt that connects the hub to the lower control arm. I had to cut both of those off too. Lastly if you end up bringing your car in for N alignment after you have done the work the shop may have some trouble with the camber bolts at the inside end of the lower control arms. Do yourself a favour and order two new ones from volvo should they need to grind those out as well.
 

Last edited by pierremcalpine; Mar 6, 2015 at 06:24 AM.
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Old Mar 6, 2015 | 10:32 AM
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LOL, seized bolts is a given on any car where we have real winters... my worst case was a bolt for the front control arm on my 850... As a tip, try spraying PB Blaster a few times on the bolts a few days before you plan on working - the road vibrations from driving can help work in the oil. I have had to heat a few with a MAP torch as well but to me that's a last resort (ok a cut off tool is the last resort). I also use six point hardened sockets to keep from stripping the bolts. I also keep an 2 ft iron pipe to slide over my breaker bar to get extra leverage.
 
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