Out of curiosity, and as someone who has smashed the intake valves on 2&5 twice now trying to do a timing belt on my 2005 S40 base 2.4L, can anyone confirm if #1 is fully at top dead center when crank timing marks are lined up? With my marks lined up (and I'm using the cam fixture so cams are locked in position) and looking down the spark plug bore, I can see the piston is certainly high in the bore, but not quite to TDC. Is this normal or correct? I hear people toss around #1 TDC on this timing belt job, but it seems its a touch before TDC, piston down perhaps 1/2". Also, the hydraulic cam sprocket on the intake cam, do I need to do anything with this when doing this timing belt job? With cams locked and crank parks lined up, I wouldnt think so, but of course that hydraulic sprocket can change cam timing, maybe I'm being shortsighted and need to do something also with that. 3rd time trying to do this timing belt job and am getting tired of reloading the head with intake valves, cyl 2&5. Exhaust valves seem too small to reach the piston, never an issue with them. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Really good work, i have a Volvo S40 2.4i that got its engine replaced after a year sitting on the streets and i've been replacing and repairing a lot of parts giving me trouble.



Tutuapp 9Apps

 

What you’re seeing is actually normal. On the 2005 S40 2.4L, with the crank timing marks lined up and the cams locked using the fixture, piston #1 is slightly below true TDC in the bore — usually by a few millimeters. This is because the cam timing marks reference crank/cam alignment for belt installation, not exact piston position. For the hydraulic intake cam sprocket, you don’t need to do anything special as long as the cam is locked in position and the jackpotjill-casino-aus tensioner is relaxed. Its internal phasing will adjust automatically once the belt is properly tensioned. Just be meticulous with your alignment marks, double-check the cam locks, and take it slow to avoid hitting the valves again.