Ok folks - I've got to get my timing belt replaced. I've got a bit of DIY experience (even replaced the timing belt on my previous 240 - I know the S40 is alot more trouble though). I know I should buy the kit and replace the tensioner and also the water pump - the question is: what special tools do I need and how long will it take if I go slow?

Thanks in advance!

 

Do you have the Haynes Manual for the European version of the S40? (Since a manual for the US version does not exist) I found mine at IPD. In the manual they show a tool that holds the crank from turning when you loosen the crank nut since you cannot reach the flexplate to jam a screwdriver against it. I posted a picture in the next post with the measurements. You bolt this tool to the harmonic balancer. Now add just a bit of heat to the crank nut. Then get a big old breaker bar, put your feet on the tool and pull like crazy on the breaker bar. You are going against 140lbs of torque so eat your wheaties, lol. That for me took the longest to figure out. Once I finally got the nut loose the rest went very quickly.

Little things to watch out for are the cams moving when replacing the belt. Not hard to move them back. Might want to use some wood pieces or similar to hold them in place. Just something soft that keeps them from moving.

Last I remember was the tensioner would move as I tightened the nut. See the tensioner has a little allen head hole that sets a cam bolt to move a little pointer. You have to line up the pointer then tighten the tensioner. But when the tensioner is tightened the pointer moves. Argghhhh! So it's trial and error again as you move the pointer close then tighten the nut so the pointer ends up correctly. Not hard just annoying.

Took me maybe 6 hours for the whole job including a couple of parts runs.

 

Here is the tool. It's four 18" pieces of 1/8" X 1" flat steel bar stock from the local Ace Hardware. I used two 3ft pieces and cut them in half to make four 18" pieces. You could also use a single 1/4" piece 3ft long and work from there. Next I drilled a hole 11 1/4" from the end and placed a bolt and nut through all four pieces. I then drilled another hole 1/2" from the long end. The middle hole size was determined by the bolt I had on hand. The holes near the end need to be big enough for the pulley bolts to pass through. Split the tool into an X as pictured and bolt the long end to the harmonic balancer where the main pulley would normally go. I had to turn over the engine slightly to line everything up so I could get my breaker bar on at the angle I needed. Since you are lying on the floor with a foot on the tool and your arms grabbing the breaker bar you need everything just right.