My "Trunk Lid Open" light on my dash continually turns on even though the trunk is obviously closed and locked.

Whenever I hit the button to shut off the message, the light will pop back on -- sometimes immediately, sometimes after a few minutes. This is getting quite annoying, as I know the lid is not open and becomes a bit of a distraction when I'm driving. Has anyone had this problem?

I know I can take it into the dealership, but my warranty is expired and would prefer to avoid paying for their overpriced service on an unessential repair. Hoping someone has a cheaper solution. Thanks in advance!

 

Yes, had the problem ............found two broken wires at the trunk hinge point......at first one wire broked.......light stady on...........second wire broked..........trunk did not unlatched anymore........lukly i had already removed the inner lining giving me access to the 3 mounting bolts of the latch assy to open the trunk ( no internal handle on my car)................
salutation
Bernard

 

Hi Bernard, it appears that since we originally posted about this problem, my trunk will not unlatch any more. (I made sure my valet lock wasn't on and have tried both manual lock and key fob.) The only way I can open my trunk now is if I pull the emergency latch cord that's found inside the trunk; so I tied a rope to it that I can pull from the rear passenger seat.

My question is, how did you remove the inner lining to get access to the wires? Do you or anyone else have any step-by-step instructions I can follow or a link online? I'm not a mechanic and not great with DIY repairs.

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

I had this same exact problem and found a wire had come undone inside the tube that runs from the trunk to the car on the left side under neath the trunk.

Cut that tube open and look for and wires that have come undone use some electric tape and see if this helps. Might not eliminate code but will alowe your latch to work.

 

http://i.pgu.me/Vu3UDlB6_original.jpg

 

Thanks for all the comments guys in conjunction with the advice from my Volvo dealership, The 'Boot Lid Open Warning Light' message coming on all the time and the boot lid actually being locked proved to be related to the poor designed or poorly manufactured wiring loom. In 2012 the opposite occurred: Boot lid would not open on my 2007 S40. I took it to the dealership for them to repair. What they did was replace the wiring loom. Now, five years later, the wiring loom became faulty again. This time I completely took the wiring loom out myself and pulled it apart and found four of the wires within the flexible rubber tube having their insulation broken and a fifth wire completely broken open circuited. I noticed that while the copper conductors seemed flexible, the plastic insulation did not appear flexible enough. One would assume that if wiring is going to be installed in a location of high flexibility, the manufacturer would use flexible silicon rubber cabling or similar in these locations. Silicon insulated flexible cabling would last the lifespan of the car opposed to lasting only five years. (In both of my cases, the loom lasted only 5 years!) This time around it would have cost me AU$360 for the loom plus installation at the dealership. in this instance I repaired the cables myself and saved myself at least $600. It makes me disappointed to experience that small obvious items such as this on an expensive European car seem to break down where as on my Australian cheaper Fords in the past, these same items lasted the life of the vehicle. Go figure? My experience with Volvo since the late 90's has so far been that while Volvos are better on safety features, they are worse in quality of their parts in general when compared to that of their Australian competitors. We pretty much no longer make Cars here anymore, so I reckon soon they will all be the same in quality when considering many of the parts: i.e. Cheap! And once again the consumer will foot the bill!