Trunk Lid Open light on dashboard
#1
02-05-2019 | 06:21 PM
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Trunk Lid Open light on dashboard
HI all...
My Trunk Lid Open on my dashboard is constantly on. The trunk is closed tightly and seems to open just fine, but I cant clear the warning light. I checked all cables that lead to the trunk and all seem to be in one peace. Don't see any damage or anything that has melted due to a short.
Anyone had this issue before?
Thanks
My Trunk Lid Open on my dashboard is constantly on. The trunk is closed tightly and seems to open just fine, but I cant clear the warning light. I checked all cables that lead to the trunk and all seem to be in one peace. Don't see any damage or anything that has melted due to a short.
Anyone had this issue before?
Thanks
#2
02-06-2019 | 11:07 AM
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 109
From: Mesa, AZ
I can't find anything (quickly, anyway) showing the location of the trunk lid switch, but it should be fairly obvious - it's got to be somewhere that the trunk latch or lid itself pushes the switch to change its state. If you don't see it obviously sticking up through the trunk "sill" then chances are it's part of the latch mechanism, most likely on the "car side" not the "trunk side". You'll probably have to pull a panel off to gain access, but once you do, it's a pretty straightforward thing to test. If you have a voltmeter, just check the switch for continuity (going to zero ohms when you manually activate the switch). Otherwise, you could just push the button and see if the light goes off. If it doesn't, then unplug the switch and try shorting out the contacts - most likely there will be only two. If this causes the light to go off, get a new switch. If shorting the plug contacts out doesn't turn off the light, then you'll have to trace the wiring back to wherever it goes - it could be a broken wire, bad plug, or (hope not) a bad module.
#3
02-06-2019 | 07:13 PM
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I can't find anything (quickly, anyway) showing the location of the trunk lid switch, but it should be fairly obvious - it's got to be somewhere that the trunk latch or lid itself pushes the switch to change its state. If you don't see it obviously sticking up through the trunk "sill" then chances are it's part of the latch mechanism, most likely on the "car side" not the "trunk side". You'll probably have to pull a panel off to gain access, but once you do, it's a pretty straightforward thing to test. If you have a voltmeter, just check the switch for continuity (going to zero ohms when you manually activate the switch). Otherwise, you could just push the button and see if the light goes off. If it doesn't, then unplug the switch and try shorting out the contacts - most likely there will be only two. If this causes the light to go off, get a new switch. If shorting the plug contacts out doesn't turn off the light, then you'll have to trace the wiring back to wherever it goes - it could be a broken wire, bad plug, or (hope not) a bad module.
#4
02-06-2019 | 07:46 PM
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,372
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From: Mesa, AZ
It must be an epidemic - I just got in from swapping my front hubs, too (and swapped out the axles, too). I'll be posting a youtube video of the adventure soon.
I did look on the tailgate of my V50... might not mean anything but it looks like the switch would be in the tailgate rather than on the "trunk sill". I'm not sure that your sedan will be anything like that, of course.
I did look on the tailgate of my V50... might not mean anything but it looks like the switch would be in the tailgate rather than on the "trunk sill". I'm not sure that your sedan will be anything like that, of course.
#5
02-06-2019 | 09:53 PM
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I can't find anything (quickly, anyway) showing the location of the trunk lid switch, but it should be fairly obvious - it's got to be somewhere that the trunk latch or lid itself pushes the switch to change its state. If you don't see it obviously sticking up through the trunk "sill" then chances are it's part of the latch mechanism, most likely on the "car side" not the "trunk side". You'll probably have to pull a panel off to gain access, but once you do, it's a pretty straightforward thing to test. If you have a voltmeter, just check the switch for continuity (going to zero ohms when you manually activate the switch). Otherwise, you could just push the button and see if the light goes off. If it doesn't, then unplug the switch and try shorting out the contacts - most likely there will be only two. If this causes the light to go off, get a new switch. If shorting the plug contacts out doesn't turn off the light, then you'll have to trace the wiring back to wherever it goes - it could be a broken wire, bad plug, or (hope not) a bad module.
It must be an epidemic - I just got in from swapping my front hubs, too (and swapped out the axles, too). I'll be posting a youtube video of the adventure soon.
I did look on the tailgate of my V50... might not mean anything but it looks like the switch would be in the tailgate rather than on the "trunk sill". I'm not sure that your sedan will be anything like that, of course.
I did look on the tailgate of my V50... might not mean anything but it looks like the switch would be in the tailgate rather than on the "trunk sill". I'm not sure that your sedan will be anything like that, of course.
soo pissed.... On the other side found out that my passenger drive axle boot has been damaged. Back to the topic... I will take a look at the switch.. I can live with it being off, but I cant stand the warning message on the dash...
#6
02-07-2019 | 11:46 AM
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,372
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From: Mesa, AZ
Well, the good news is that you now have the "opportunity" to replace both control arms, since the bushings tend to be suspect after 100,000 miles or so. If you can just replace the boot, do that - I went through a lot of hassle with axles - put in some el cheapo units that were causing a shake within 5,000 miles - I ended up with Cardone rebuilts which I think should be fine long-term (haven't driven the car yet, so I'm making some assumptions). ;-)
#7
02-07-2019 | 12:07 PM
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Well, the good news is that you now have the "opportunity" to replace both control arms, since the bushings tend to be suspect after 100,000 miles or so. If you can just replace the boot, do that - I went through a lot of hassle with axles - put in some el cheapo units that were causing a shake within 5,000 miles - I ended up with Cardone rebuilts which I think should be fine long-term (haven't driven the car yet, so I'm making some assumptions). ;-)
.... soo I am replacing the replacement one more time, $80 down the drain.. As for the axle I was able to find one locally for $100 made by import direct.. What a pain
#8
02-07-2019 | 12:11 PM
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Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,372
Likes: 109
From: Mesa, AZ
Hope it works out for you. I've had little luck with non-OEM axles, other than some Empi (Empire) axles that I put in a VW Jetta. The axles I had put in my V50 just a few months ago both developed enough play to cause some steering wheel / front end shake within a couple thousand miles. I'm hoping my Cardone (rebuilt Volvo) axles will work out better. They now have about 6 trouble-free miles on them!!! ;-)
#9
02-17-2019 | 12:42 PM
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I can't find anything (quickly, anyway) showing the location of the trunk lid switch, but it should be fairly obvious - it's got to be somewhere that the trunk latch or lid itself pushes the switch to change its state. If you don't see it obviously sticking up through the trunk "sill" then chances are it's part of the latch mechanism, most likely on the "car side" not the "trunk side". You'll probably have to pull a panel off to gain access, but once you do, it's a pretty straightforward thing to test. If you have a voltmeter, just check the switch for continuity (going to zero ohms when you manually activate the switch). Otherwise, you could just push the button and see if the light goes off. If it doesn't, then unplug the switch and try shorting out the contacts - most likely there will be only two. If this causes the light to go off, get a new switch. If shorting the plug contacts out doesn't turn off the light, then you'll have to trace the wiring back to wherever it goes - it could be a broken wire, bad plug, or (hope not) a bad module.
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