Hi guys,
i'm new here and I've searched for any thread related to this without luck.

Here's the situation 2 Volvos, one s40 II and one v50 from 2005 and 2007.
Same engine 2.0D 136hp the same used in ford, psa etc..
Both no defaults or weird values except the v50 which marks on the intake temperature sensor -40º.

The S40 sometimes when it stays a long period of time without working and the weather is a bit cold (3 to 10 Celcius), it starts but instantly shuts down BUT if you try it again instantly if you want it will start like a 0km car.

The V50 when it's cold or it stays a long period of time without working its really hard to start, it has two dead glow plugs (but my car for example with the same engine had 4 of them burned and started like butter on summer even when cold), the intake air temperature marks -40º, it has no air on tubes. I checked the synchronism its fine, fuel rail pressure perfect, rpm is around 300, injectors have a nice value although i didn't check the return line, i bypassed the EGR, it has no DPF and i checked the phonic wheel for damage.

I'll try to keep the post updated on the latest information.

 

Hello João. Did you ever solve your problem on the V50?
I have the same problem on my 2005 V50 2.0D.
From what I understand, the ECM only turns on the output injector stage when there is enough pressure and if RPM is minimum 350 rpm.
I notice I am just under 300, but I have a good battery, but maybe the starter could use some cleaning.
I also notice that in VIDA there is the front temperature sensor catylitic converter and rear, which both read 100 C when cold, even though my Volvo does not have these sensors.
I am going to see tomorrow to measure the air intake temperature.
But the problem does seem temperature related, since after the first cold start, it starts fine. If I spray a bit of brake cleaner in the induction pipe, its starts much easier.

Over and out
Carnaxide

 

Hello,
The problem is still present,
i changed the intake sensor but it didn't solve the problem.
Every time i go to work for example, at the end of the day when leaving the car starts and the rpm rise super slow while shaking just a bit the engine.
My injectors aren't old and the pump was repaired. I also installed a new fuel filter body, maybe some air was getting inside the system i don´t know.
Still no defaults, my EGR was removed with a delete kit, i think the car lost a bit of power. Nothing major but i feel its slower.
I'm going to change the throttle body to see if there's any changes. Its made of plastic and i believe its not in the best conditions.

 

what codes does the obd give I see no one mentioned any

 

Mine has no codes. Completely clean.

 

Here is a list of parts that I have changed so far:
Refurbished injectors
Rebuilt HP fuel pump with new volume and pressure sensors
New camshaft sensor, crank sensor and reluctor ring
​​​​​​All the seals for the fuel line including return fuel
New fuel filter
I have no bubbles in the fuel line up to the HP pump, and when I crank from cold start, I see the correct fuel pressure.
I will test the return fuel line for any leaks by pressurising them with a hand fuel pump.
I have already tried putting pump before filter and pumping until hard and then cranking the engine, but it makes no difference.
I will check the PWM for injector 1 while cranking to make sure the ECM is outputting to the injectors

 

Everything you replaced i already changed.
The only thing missing in my case is the throttle body. But i didn't check the signal sent by the ECU to the injectors.

 

Unless your throttle body is closed when your engine is off, (easy check), then it wouldn't be the probem.
Mine was a bit sticky when I closed it manually, but after cleaning was fine.
What I am finding is my starter motor isn't cranking the engine fast enough, even though it is recent, and I took it apart, tested it with ohmmeter, and cleaned it.
I did gain some rpms, but it is still around 250 rpms, with new battery fully charged. As I have commented, the SID803 ECM has a cranking threshhold of around 350 rmps before turning on fuel injector ouput stage (at least for Citroen), so I might be off a bit.
I think my problem is the starter that is currently installed is a 1.2Kw (no references on starter), so I am guessing, given the results.
I have ordered a 2.2Kw starter motor, which should bring up the cranking rpms and help with starting.
What I did find as was that the cam sensor that I replaced has a little calibrated plastic protrusion at the end of the sensor. This allows you to install it in position until it touches the cam gear, and then tighten in place. This is how you know the sensor is at the correct distance (1,5mm +/- 0.5mm). When you crank the engine, the plastic protrusion will break off.
When I took apart my sensor, the plastic was still in place. meaning I did not install correctly.
After readjusting, I noticed a big improvement with the hard start problem.
I think once I replace starter motor with a higher power, hoping my wooes will be over.
I will update, once new starter is in place.

 

Mine was installed perfectly ages ago, the problem started suddenly. My starter is a year old but the battery has like 5 years. 95% of the time it starts like a rocket, the other 5% it starts but immediately shuts off then if i kick it again it will start magnificently like nothing ever happened.
BTW the throttle body did not help with the problem but improved the acceleration. The old one was really worned out.