2000 volvo s40 1.9T idles great but no power when in gear.
#1
2000 volvo s40 1.9T idles great but no power when in gear.
Hey guys, I've been trying to search this site already for the correct answer for about 4 hours and I have found good insight but poor success in what I have.... maybe one of yall might be able to help me.
I have a 2000 S40 1.9T with a complete stage zero. The mechanics went ahead and changed the FPR, the thermostat and cleaned the air intake valve. They also checked the MAF sensor to make sure it was not damaged.
This is my problem. The car takes about two cranks two start. I can deal with that. Then, nothing is absolutely wrong when the car is in PARK or NEUTRAL. After a few minutes that I warm up the engine, i put it in gear (doesn't matter if it is P or R) the car immediately loses power and feels like it wants to shut off.
So, I drive it real slow without slamming on the gas and it is perfect. If I touch the gas pedal in any way, the car immediately wants to stall.(This is below 30 mph) Once I finally get to 35mph the car does not drop down a gear and there is absolutely no power to the engine. Turbo does not kick in, it doesn't drop from third to second, but if I do it manually, it does and immediately wants to stall.
Any input would be amazing because I like this car and don't really feel like selling it.
I am going to test the catalytic converter since I smelled ONCE a rotten egg smell.
Thank you in advance.
I have a 2000 S40 1.9T with a complete stage zero. The mechanics went ahead and changed the FPR, the thermostat and cleaned the air intake valve. They also checked the MAF sensor to make sure it was not damaged.
This is my problem. The car takes about two cranks two start. I can deal with that. Then, nothing is absolutely wrong when the car is in PARK or NEUTRAL. After a few minutes that I warm up the engine, i put it in gear (doesn't matter if it is P or R) the car immediately loses power and feels like it wants to shut off.
So, I drive it real slow without slamming on the gas and it is perfect. If I touch the gas pedal in any way, the car immediately wants to stall.(This is below 30 mph) Once I finally get to 35mph the car does not drop down a gear and there is absolutely no power to the engine. Turbo does not kick in, it doesn't drop from third to second, but if I do it manually, it does and immediately wants to stall.
Any input would be amazing because I like this car and don't really feel like selling it.
I am going to test the catalytic converter since I smelled ONCE a rotten egg smell.
Thank you in advance.
#3
Bad Cat diagnostics?
I'm with you on the cat being a possible cause. These are sometimes hard to diagnose and do kill the power when the engine is under load. Is your car quieter than normal or possibly have some extra heat in the floor. (Extra heat from Cat?) I found with my plugged cat problem I could smack the cat with a crowbar and it would work better for about 10 miles.... (Stuck on I40-E at no better than 25 MPH!) Another (diagnostic!) option may be to loosen the cat flange if there is one available on your exhaust setup. This creates a 'leak' before the cat to release some back pressure and hopefully restore some power as a test.
Any chance you have an intake leak that may be flexing when you put the engine in gear? How does the engine run/sound at 3K RPM in N?
Any chance you have an intake leak that may be flexing when you put the engine in gear? How does the engine run/sound at 3K RPM in N?
#4
Has someone read the codes with a Volvo scanner?
Most of the time the generic scanners will not read all the codes.
__________________
There are absolutely no codes to pull. The computer says there is nothing wrong with the engine.
I'm with you on the cat being a possible cause. These are sometimes hard to diagnose and do kill the power when the engine is under load. Is your car quieter than normal or possibly have some extra heat in the floor. (Extra heat from Cat?) I found with my plugged cat problem I could smack the cat with a crowbar and it would work better for about 10 miles.... (Stuck on I40-E at no better than 25 MPH!) Another (diagnostic!) option may be to loosen the cat flange if there is one available on your exhaust setup. This creates a 'leak' before the cat to release some back pressure and hopefully restore some power as a test.
Any chance you have an intake leak that may be flexing when you put the engine in gear? How does the engine run/sound at 3K RPM in N?
__________________
I checked the catalytic converter and it seems like its running good. There is no obstructions whatsoever.
Whenever the car is in neutral and I rev it to 3000 RPMs the car works like a charm. Nothing bad. Now, if I am in gear, that is when it starts acting up.
I am checking the whole intake housing todaay to see if it flexes when in gear. I have a feeling now that this might be the problem and the MAF sensor isn't reading things correctly. Although, shouldn't the ECU throw me a check engine light? This is probably one of those assignments where the simplest thing is the answer.
I'll check the housing today and get back with you guys. Thanks
Most of the time the generic scanners will not read all the codes.
__________________
There are absolutely no codes to pull. The computer says there is nothing wrong with the engine.
I'm with you on the cat being a possible cause. These are sometimes hard to diagnose and do kill the power when the engine is under load. Is your car quieter than normal or possibly have some extra heat in the floor. (Extra heat from Cat?) I found with my plugged cat problem I could smack the cat with a crowbar and it would work better for about 10 miles.... (Stuck on I40-E at no better than 25 MPH!) Another (diagnostic!) option may be to loosen the cat flange if there is one available on your exhaust setup. This creates a 'leak' before the cat to release some back pressure and hopefully restore some power as a test.
Any chance you have an intake leak that may be flexing when you put the engine in gear? How does the engine run/sound at 3K RPM in N?
__________________
I checked the catalytic converter and it seems like its running good. There is no obstructions whatsoever.
Whenever the car is in neutral and I rev it to 3000 RPMs the car works like a charm. Nothing bad. Now, if I am in gear, that is when it starts acting up.
I am checking the whole intake housing todaay to see if it flexes when in gear. I have a feeling now that this might be the problem and the MAF sensor isn't reading things correctly. Although, shouldn't the ECU throw me a check engine light? This is probably one of those assignments where the simplest thing is the answer.
I'll check the housing today and get back with you guys. Thanks
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Kiss4aFrog
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04-07-2010 03:06 PM