I want to do a brake fluid flush on our 02 - S60. I am aware of the special affinity for trans fluid (I use the Mobil 3309). I was wondering is the brake fluid the same, an affinity to a special fluid.

I've read in print that Volvo says to use Volvo fluid but the brake cap fluid just says to use at least a DOT #.

The fluid looks like dark nasty and with 211,000 miles on the car I wonder if the fluid was ever changed?

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, even though it is a sealed system there is the moisture contamination and boiling point of the old fluid. I normally flush mine every 2 > 3 years. I bet that 90% of the people I know don't even know they should flush out the brake fluid. The NHTSA did a study and found that 20% of the 1700 cars inspected had at contaminated brake fluid and 5% or more of the fluid was water.

can I just go over to the parts store and get off the rack fluid?

 

Yep. Any DOT 4 is fine.

 

Ok...thanks.

 

It won't be easy to loosen the read brake caliper bleeders, they might be seized. Give it a good penetrating oil days/weeks in advance.
Front brakes bleeders are easier to loosen.

 

In April 2014 I replaced the rear brakes and yes they were a bear to get loose. I did have to use some release agent and return later to get them loose. The one side would not bleed and must be clogged.

I called the local Volvo dealer to get a price on new bleeders and he said in all his years he never sold any....thy don't go bad.

I think that the front bleeders can be reached with the wheels turned hard to either side. I checked last night to see if I can reach them and I could easily remove the rubber top and it looked like I could get a wrench on the bleeder and get an easy torque on it. Removing the tires will make it much easier to reach them.

Last night it started to throw an intermittent P0135 code so now I have to deal with replacing the O2 sensor. Removing the O2 connector looks like it will be as difficult as it is to remove the O2 sensor.

I saw this on IPD and may buy it. It is fashioned in such a way that I could even add a pipe on the end for greater leverage.

Oxygen Sensor Wrench GREAT NECK 113823 T1023

 

The bleeders don't go bad. Yes, I have seen some clog. Just remove it and clean it. And I have seen some break. But then, the caliper needs to be replaced.

As for that wrench, it will work but I prefer an oxygen sensor socket and a long, flex head ratchet. That way I can position it any way that fits and allows the most leverage.

 

Just push down with a small flat screw driver on the retaining clip on top of the the oxygen sensor connector, while pulling the connector. Careful when replacing the front O2 sensor, most aftermarket items will still throw a code. I've used a NGK (NTK) sensor on my 2003 non turbo with success.

 

My arms are not anywhere near long enough. I'm thinking I need to remove some bits/parts so that I can reach down there. I can't remember what is in the way --- was it the stuff that is part of the turbo system?

 

I don't have a turbo, but there was a large flexible metallic hose in the way, that just needs to be flexed a bit to remove it from there. There is also a small O2 cable bracket fixed somewhere. For the connector, you may want to use only a hand to reach it with, for example a swiss knife to push on it while pulling with the remaining fingers, not easy but doable. there are other similar connectors near the headlight, makes good for practicing

 

I can't even see the O2 because there is a shield over it and I imagine that the shield is removable.

The connector is way down on the left hand side. The turbo has a big hard plastic pipe that goes kind of across and the down on the left hand side. So reaching over the pipe to the connector from the front is difficult.

There is that hood cross beam going from side to side and if that wasn't there I would have a better shot at the connector.

Knowing O2 sensors, removing the connector will be the lessor of the problems. Normally having a warmed up engine is a key to more easily removing the O2 sensor. Since this is the top one, reaching over the warm engine isn't a pretty picture or can you get it from down below.

I have yet to remove anything from the bottom or the top shield to see the orientation of the O2 sensor.

 

From Jaguars, to Caddies to Subbies, I've used Bosch sensors for as long as I can remember.

So you say a new premium Bosch O2 sensor may throw a code?

Doing an internet search didn't help because you have people saying Denso is best, NTK is best, Bosch is best, etc. I've found all previously mentioned manufactures to be good at making OE equivalent OEM parts.

I can't see in any parts pictures if the NTK has the heat shield like the Bosch.