Hi All,
I need to replace my front and rear pads and rotors on a 2005 S60 front wheel drive and never did it. Can someone tell me what tools I will need and the sizes.
Thank You

 

Jackstands, a metric socket set and a few wrenches from 14-19mm were the main tools needed. There is a small 'keeper' bolt on the rotors which I believe is 9-10mm. If the rotors are rusted to the hubs, a 'pusher' bolt is very helpful. (I didn't need one on my 2006...) This bolt is basically a 6mm-or-so (diameter) bolt that screws into a threaded hole in the hub area of the rotor to push is off of the hub. It's a good idea to put a little bit of a 'point' on the end of the bolt threads with a file or grinder to keep them from mushrooming making in difficult to remove the bolt.

A caliper piston compressor is also helpful. (AutoZone - $12) but a C-clamp can be used. I generally loosen the master cylinder cap to make it easier to push the pistons in for the new pads.

An old coat hanger is helpful for 'hanging' the caliper from somewhere on the suspension when it's loose so that the hoses aren't stressed. (An upside-down bucket may also work...) Be carefull of any ABS or traction control sensors and the delicate wires leading to them.

Don't forget the Brake parts cleaner and some anti-squeek grease for the metal parts that slide against each other. ($2 at AZ)

 

Here is link to DIY for Volvo 850 and S70. There is no big difference for other cars.
http://volvospeed.com/850rbrake1.php rear

http://volvospeed.com/850fbrake1.php front

 

did mine today, very easy, got ripped on the 7mm allen key 1/2" drive suitable for impact tools cost $22!
my advice here, a normal 7mm allen key (not torx) would work fine and cost $4.

I have never greased anything on any brake caliper assembly nor have I ever had any squeaks (but I would never use mintex pads as they squeal whatever you do).

I used generic off the shelf replacement parts and they work as well if not better than the OEM stuff and cost $89 each for the rotors and $39 for the pads -cant go wrong here!

mine were the 12" rotors and personally I found them as easy to do as any car i've ever owned.

Check your top spring seat while you are there (ive had the wheels off and on 3 times in 3 days!)

my tip is to use a little never-cease on the wheel bolts/studs, enables you to retorque consistantly and easily (use the factory lug nut tool, never a wheel brace to tighten the nuts as over torque can cause them to snap. (this applies to any and all cars)

Karl

 

oh and if the rotor is rusted to the hub, forget the pusher bolt, the disc is stuffed already, just use a bigger hammer, couple of good whacks and its in your lap!