How I fixed my P0455 s60 vacuum leak
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How I fixed my P0455 s60 vacuum leak
My 2002 S60 was showing a P0455 code. Here are the steps I took to solve the problem.
1. I first replaced the gas cap. The washer/seal had multiple cracks.
2. I replaced a vacuum fitting on the back of the airfilter housing. There was a 90 degree rubber elbow that was severely cracked. This vacuum line went from the exhaust manifold to the back of the air filter housing. I replaced the hose and both fittings.
https://i.imgur.com/27zeGfK.jpg The air filter housing.
https://i.imgur.com/qkQNu4s.jpg The bad hose fitting on the back of the air filter housing.
The steps above did not solve the problem, but the parts had failed and were in need of replacement.
3. I found this link to a vacuum chart. http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...154a140105fc06 It is not complete for my model, but showed the system in enough matching detail, so I could try to trace the vacuum lines at and near the gas tank. Note the #7 hose and the #20 hose. This was where my problem was. These two hoses were put together by pushing the smaller hose inside the larger hose without a connector or clamps. This connection had come apart. The #19 canister is next to the gas filler tube behind the rear fender at the gas fill compartment/door.
4. I removed the rear passenger wheel and I pulled out the rear passenger vinyl fender insert behind the wheel. There are three bolts and five rivets that hold the insert in place, plus some basic plastic clips along the top that are hidden on the back side of the cowling. Two rivets on the lower front and three on the lower rear. I drilled these out. In retrospect, I didn't need to remove this cowling to get to the section of vacuum line that had become unattached. But, at the time, I didn't know where the leak was located. I also wanted to visually inspect the area around the fill tube, because at times, I thought I could smell gasoline at start up. I had read that some people had a break at the #21 hose.
https://i.imgur.com/BBRitlV.jpg Picture of the fill tube, #19 canister, #21 and #20 vacuum hoses.
5. Once the cowling/insert was out, I was able to follow the #20 hose and see where it had become disconnected.
https://i.imgur.com/dIFVtJ8.jpg This is how I FOUND THE #20 hose. The hose is open ended just on the other side of the suspension arm. You can see where the paint was rubbing off the suspension arm.
https://i.imgur.com/f0CY9KP.jpg THere is the end of the #7 hose.
https://i.imgur.com/RGXz8K7.jpg Another picture of the #7 hose. You can see the black #20 hose in the foreground. You can not make the hose connect along this route between the two ends of the hose as they are pictured. The hose must be wrapped under the suspension and clamped in place along with the other hoses coming down from the filler tube. Don't ask me how the #20 hose came to be in this position. I don't know.
https://i.imgur.com/06CpKe5.jpg This picture shows the #20 hose rebundled with the other hoses coming down from the filler tube. That plastic clamp was open which allowed the #20 hose to escape the bundle.
https://i.imgur.com/TDgFmkI.jpg Close up of the hose bundle and clamp with the #20 hose positioned back in its proper place. I am lying flat on by back under the car looking up at the bundle.
https://i.imgur.com/4u2WDvo.jpg This picture shows the #7 and # 20 hoses pushed back into position. I found that if I connected them as originally installed the # 20 hose would only slide into the #7 hose by a 1/4 inch. No way would it stay together and no way for me to physically push them together given the tight working conditions.
6. I used a 1/2 inch hose connector and clamped the hose on the connector on both sides. The connection was between the trunk and above the lower frame. It was very difficult to get to. I used a flat screwdriver to pull the end of the #7 hose down between the trunk and the frame for better access so I could install the connector. The clamps had to be slid into place and tightened. Did I mention this was very difficult? A vice type clamp may have been easier.
https://i.imgur.com/CZN1znF.jpg Here is the connection after installation. A half inch connector with clamps locked down on either side. Dudes... bring your patience. You will need it for this operation. You may notice that the clamps are positioned with the screw on top and one on bottom. This was necessary to get the screwdriver in position to turn the screws on the clamp. A vice type clamp may have been easier.
7. last but not least. I used 1/4 inch stainless MACHINE BOLTS to replace the rivets in the fender cowling, Some had nuts and lock washers, some didn't. I will replace these when I can find the proper replacement rivets. https://i.imgur.com/1GsXulA.jpg
1. I first replaced the gas cap. The washer/seal had multiple cracks.
2. I replaced a vacuum fitting on the back of the airfilter housing. There was a 90 degree rubber elbow that was severely cracked. This vacuum line went from the exhaust manifold to the back of the air filter housing. I replaced the hose and both fittings.
https://i.imgur.com/27zeGfK.jpg The air filter housing.
https://i.imgur.com/qkQNu4s.jpg The bad hose fitting on the back of the air filter housing.
The steps above did not solve the problem, but the parts had failed and were in need of replacement.
3. I found this link to a vacuum chart. http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...154a140105fc06 It is not complete for my model, but showed the system in enough matching detail, so I could try to trace the vacuum lines at and near the gas tank. Note the #7 hose and the #20 hose. This was where my problem was. These two hoses were put together by pushing the smaller hose inside the larger hose without a connector or clamps. This connection had come apart. The #19 canister is next to the gas filler tube behind the rear fender at the gas fill compartment/door.
4. I removed the rear passenger wheel and I pulled out the rear passenger vinyl fender insert behind the wheel. There are three bolts and five rivets that hold the insert in place, plus some basic plastic clips along the top that are hidden on the back side of the cowling. Two rivets on the lower front and three on the lower rear. I drilled these out. In retrospect, I didn't need to remove this cowling to get to the section of vacuum line that had become unattached. But, at the time, I didn't know where the leak was located. I also wanted to visually inspect the area around the fill tube, because at times, I thought I could smell gasoline at start up. I had read that some people had a break at the #21 hose.
https://i.imgur.com/BBRitlV.jpg Picture of the fill tube, #19 canister, #21 and #20 vacuum hoses.
5. Once the cowling/insert was out, I was able to follow the #20 hose and see where it had become disconnected.
https://i.imgur.com/dIFVtJ8.jpg This is how I FOUND THE #20 hose. The hose is open ended just on the other side of the suspension arm. You can see where the paint was rubbing off the suspension arm.
https://i.imgur.com/f0CY9KP.jpg THere is the end of the #7 hose.
https://i.imgur.com/RGXz8K7.jpg Another picture of the #7 hose. You can see the black #20 hose in the foreground. You can not make the hose connect along this route between the two ends of the hose as they are pictured. The hose must be wrapped under the suspension and clamped in place along with the other hoses coming down from the filler tube. Don't ask me how the #20 hose came to be in this position. I don't know.
https://i.imgur.com/06CpKe5.jpg This picture shows the #20 hose rebundled with the other hoses coming down from the filler tube. That plastic clamp was open which allowed the #20 hose to escape the bundle.
https://i.imgur.com/TDgFmkI.jpg Close up of the hose bundle and clamp with the #20 hose positioned back in its proper place. I am lying flat on by back under the car looking up at the bundle.
https://i.imgur.com/4u2WDvo.jpg This picture shows the #7 and # 20 hoses pushed back into position. I found that if I connected them as originally installed the # 20 hose would only slide into the #7 hose by a 1/4 inch. No way would it stay together and no way for me to physically push them together given the tight working conditions.
6. I used a 1/2 inch hose connector and clamped the hose on the connector on both sides. The connection was between the trunk and above the lower frame. It was very difficult to get to. I used a flat screwdriver to pull the end of the #7 hose down between the trunk and the frame for better access so I could install the connector. The clamps had to be slid into place and tightened. Did I mention this was very difficult? A vice type clamp may have been easier.
https://i.imgur.com/CZN1znF.jpg Here is the connection after installation. A half inch connector with clamps locked down on either side. Dudes... bring your patience. You will need it for this operation. You may notice that the clamps are positioned with the screw on top and one on bottom. This was necessary to get the screwdriver in position to turn the screws on the clamp. A vice type clamp may have been easier.
7. last but not least. I used 1/4 inch stainless MACHINE BOLTS to replace the rivets in the fender cowling, Some had nuts and lock washers, some didn't. I will replace these when I can find the proper replacement rivets. https://i.imgur.com/1GsXulA.jpg
Last edited by shaddykac; Mar 30, 2013 at 11:39 PM. Reason: add pics
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