How to replace S60 timing belt?
#1
#2
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http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ic/ic60326.htm
This is all I have at the moment.
This is all I have at the moment.
#3
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Hi Tech,
This looks doable. Thanks. One question though,. I am only assuming that the steps in the link are going to be similar on my S60. On step 12
"12. Use the Volvo press tool #5456, or a suitable hydraulic press, to compress the belt tensioner. Apply pressure slowly for the plunger to reset itself and install a 2 mm pin to hold the plunger in place. See Fig. 4."
I do not have a hydraulic press or press tool. Can I make somthing from a C-Clamp or Vise or somthing similar? Could there be somthing aftermarket at Northern Tool?
Thanks,
Stephen
This looks doable. Thanks. One question though,. I am only assuming that the steps in the link are going to be similar on my S60. On step 12
"12. Use the Volvo press tool #5456, or a suitable hydraulic press, to compress the belt tensioner. Apply pressure slowly for the plunger to reset itself and install a 2 mm pin to hold the plunger in place. See Fig. 4."
I do not have a hydraulic press or press tool. Can I make somthing from a C-Clamp or Vise or somthing similar? Could there be somthing aftermarket at Northern Tool?
Thanks,
Stephen
#4
#5
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I just changed the timing belt on my 2002 S60 2.4T. My car has the B5244T3 engine so this should apply to V70, XC90, etc.
I had changed the t/belt on my 855R, so I knew this job was a little involved but manageable. After referring to my copy of VADIS and searching online for tips a couple of issues worried me. Turned out it was no problem and much easier than most of the reference surces made it sound. I wanted to share a couple of observations that might help others:
> First off, the crank pulley does not need to be removed.
> Also, the timing mark on the crank is next impossible to see.
Start the job by removing the right front wheel. Bend back the inner fender liner to gain access to the crank pulley nut (it takes a 30mm socket). Now pull off the front timing belt cover up top (just the front part) and find the hash marks on the cams- not the letters- small hash marks at the perimeter.
Now turn the crank from below until those marks on the cams line up with the notches on the upper t/belt cover. Once they line up look down at the crank- you should see (might see?) a raised boss on the back side of the pulley. Put a finger tip on this and run it back toward the engine. You should follow a pulley groove back until your finger tip hits a raised marker on the engine. If so, you're in time.
Back the crank about a quarter turn (counter-clockwise) and proceed with removing the belt. This step might sound odd, but VADIS is right- it keeps the cams from "jumping" when the belt is removed.
Now, instead of removing the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer, just remove the lower cover. If you remove the lower cover (see arrow in attached image) the belt can be worked out from under the crank pulley. Two bolts at about 1:00 and 2:30 hold this cover on- they require a 10mm open end wrench. I pushed the plastic cover counter-clockwise a bit and twisted to get it out of the way.
There are a couple of protrusions the belt can snag on- but just work slowly and watch what you're doing and you can get the new belt in place just fine.
After it's on and tensioned put the upper cover back in place. Turn the motor 1/4 turn clockwise to line up the cam timing marks. Then find your crank index and see if you can feel the timing mark on the engine. If so check your belt's tension to be sure there isn't any slop between the cams or on the RH side. If not crank it through two full turns to be sure it comes back up on the marks.
Hope that helps.
I had changed the t/belt on my 855R, so I knew this job was a little involved but manageable. After referring to my copy of VADIS and searching online for tips a couple of issues worried me. Turned out it was no problem and much easier than most of the reference surces made it sound. I wanted to share a couple of observations that might help others:
> First off, the crank pulley does not need to be removed.
> Also, the timing mark on the crank is next impossible to see.
Start the job by removing the right front wheel. Bend back the inner fender liner to gain access to the crank pulley nut (it takes a 30mm socket). Now pull off the front timing belt cover up top (just the front part) and find the hash marks on the cams- not the letters- small hash marks at the perimeter.
Now turn the crank from below until those marks on the cams line up with the notches on the upper t/belt cover. Once they line up look down at the crank- you should see (might see?) a raised boss on the back side of the pulley. Put a finger tip on this and run it back toward the engine. You should follow a pulley groove back until your finger tip hits a raised marker on the engine. If so, you're in time.
Back the crank about a quarter turn (counter-clockwise) and proceed with removing the belt. This step might sound odd, but VADIS is right- it keeps the cams from "jumping" when the belt is removed.
Now, instead of removing the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer, just remove the lower cover. If you remove the lower cover (see arrow in attached image) the belt can be worked out from under the crank pulley. Two bolts at about 1:00 and 2:30 hold this cover on- they require a 10mm open end wrench. I pushed the plastic cover counter-clockwise a bit and twisted to get it out of the way.
There are a couple of protrusions the belt can snag on- but just work slowly and watch what you're doing and you can get the new belt in place just fine.
After it's on and tensioned put the upper cover back in place. Turn the motor 1/4 turn clockwise to line up the cam timing marks. Then find your crank index and see if you can feel the timing mark on the engine. If so check your belt's tension to be sure there isn't any slop between the cams or on the RH side. If not crank it through two full turns to be sure it comes back up on the marks.
Hope that helps.
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12-27-2010 10:32 AM