jerky auto transmission
#1
jerky auto transmission
hi everyone,
i've been reading a lot of the transmission related threads here but was not able to conclude what my particular problem is.
i've bought an 02 s60 9 months ago with 95k on it and a brand new transmission with a one year warranty. it was replaced at an independed shop by the previous owner.
sometimes the car jerks after takin 1-2 seconds to change into drive when parking. does not happen regulary could not pin point specific situations(maybe after traffic jam driving).
lately it's been jerking when changing into 4th but again withouth any pattern. it's under normal driving with no high revving. also, when braking and downshifting it jerks just a little(would not call it annoying but not sure if this is a normal thing)
from what i've read people say it could need a software update, the shop that replaced the tranny didn't put the right oil in it(i understand s60 autos are picky) or the tranny needs a flush.
the car was fully serviced 3 months ago and dealer checked tranny oil so pretty sure that's not a problem.
i've rulled out mounts as it does not do it all the time.
i tend to worry for nothing so my question is: is all of the above normal as it just happens sometimes or should i be worried and bring the car in for a check? the tranny should be ok as it's new so maybe it's normal behaviour that i should accept from an auto tranny. plus i know the 02's tranny reputation is pretty bad.
thanks,
Cristian
i've been reading a lot of the transmission related threads here but was not able to conclude what my particular problem is.
i've bought an 02 s60 9 months ago with 95k on it and a brand new transmission with a one year warranty. it was replaced at an independed shop by the previous owner.
sometimes the car jerks after takin 1-2 seconds to change into drive when parking. does not happen regulary could not pin point specific situations(maybe after traffic jam driving).
lately it's been jerking when changing into 4th but again withouth any pattern. it's under normal driving with no high revving. also, when braking and downshifting it jerks just a little(would not call it annoying but not sure if this is a normal thing)
from what i've read people say it could need a software update, the shop that replaced the tranny didn't put the right oil in it(i understand s60 autos are picky) or the tranny needs a flush.
the car was fully serviced 3 months ago and dealer checked tranny oil so pretty sure that's not a problem.
i've rulled out mounts as it does not do it all the time.
i tend to worry for nothing so my question is: is all of the above normal as it just happens sometimes or should i be worried and bring the car in for a check? the tranny should be ok as it's new so maybe it's normal behaviour that i should accept from an auto tranny. plus i know the 02's tranny reputation is pretty bad.
thanks,
Cristian
#2
the mounts are kinda important for the computer to learn the shifts and stuff. I'd check the tranmission mount under the car in front center. wiggle the arm near the little rear busing side to side, if it moves freely that bushing is gone, you dont need to jack it up or anything (unless yours still has the engine cover)
some times I blip the throttle in neutral very lightly before i put it into drive, this helps stop the clunk/delay 100% of the time.
also try to drive for a while with a very steady pedal. this helps the computer learn the shift I think
the fluid is kind of important, you can only use Mobil 3309 (non synthetic?) or the stuff from the dealer which is pretty expensive if doing a full flush.
theres also a B4 servo cover update at IPD, but I didnt notice anything different when I put it in my car
last time I drove my car I had it do a shift flare for the first time when going on an onramp...
scared me, I think the end may be nearing. :'(
but I saw my bushing is shot and I'm getting oem replacements and some new tires put on on monday so I hope everything will be ok after.
apparently what happens is the valve body goes bad and needs to be replaced.
some times I blip the throttle in neutral very lightly before i put it into drive, this helps stop the clunk/delay 100% of the time.
also try to drive for a while with a very steady pedal. this helps the computer learn the shift I think
the fluid is kind of important, you can only use Mobil 3309 (non synthetic?) or the stuff from the dealer which is pretty expensive if doing a full flush.
theres also a B4 servo cover update at IPD, but I didnt notice anything different when I put it in my car
last time I drove my car I had it do a shift flare for the first time when going on an onramp...
scared me, I think the end may be nearing. :'(
but I saw my bushing is shot and I'm getting oem replacements and some new tires put on on monday so I hope everything will be ok after.
apparently what happens is the valve body goes bad and needs to be replaced.
Last edited by Racer_S; 04-03-2011 at 10:53 PM.
#3
the mounts are kinda important for the computer to learn the shifts and stuff. I'd check the tranmission mount under the car in front center. wiggle the arm near the little rear busing side to side, if it moves freely that bushing is gone, you dont need to jack it up or anything (unless yours still has the engine cover)
some times I blip the throttle in neutral very lightly before i put it into drive, this helps stop the clunk/delay 100% of the time.
also try to drive for a while with a very steady pedal. this helps the computer learn the shift I think
the fluid is kind of important, you can only use Mobil 3309 (non synthetic?) or the stuff from the dealer which is pretty expensive if doing a full flush.
theres also a B4 servo cover update at IPD, but I didnt notice anything different when I put it in my car
last time I drove my car I had it do a shift flare for the first time when going on an onramp...
scared me, I think the end may be nearing. :'(
but I saw my bushing is shot and I'm getting oem replacements and some new tires put on on monday so I hope everything will be ok after.
apparently what happens is the valve body goes bad and needs to be replaced.
some times I blip the throttle in neutral very lightly before i put it into drive, this helps stop the clunk/delay 100% of the time.
also try to drive for a while with a very steady pedal. this helps the computer learn the shift I think
the fluid is kind of important, you can only use Mobil 3309 (non synthetic?) or the stuff from the dealer which is pretty expensive if doing a full flush.
theres also a B4 servo cover update at IPD, but I didnt notice anything different when I put it in my car
last time I drove my car I had it do a shift flare for the first time when going on an onramp...
scared me, I think the end may be nearing. :'(
but I saw my bushing is shot and I'm getting oem replacements and some new tires put on on monday so I hope everything will be ok after.
apparently what happens is the valve body goes bad and needs to be replaced.
thanks this is some good piece of information! i'll check the transmission mount and see what condition it's in. this is not something the dealer "must" do right? i'm thinking of taking it to an independent shop if it's bad will that be a costly job?
i'll try the steady pedal too.
thanks and really hope the end is not near for you! i've been hearing horror stories abouts costs when the tranny goes bad.
#4
well ive been doing some reading up, appears you can remove the valve body and have it rebuilt for around $500.. also I've read someone swapped (with some polarity reversing, and orifice plugs?) valve body from a 2004-up Chevy Equinox, which would get rid of the premium price for Volvo parts. There is a guide online showing how to remove it and put it back for an 01 XC70.
A used transmission is around $1500 for one with less than 100k even then theres no guarantee it wont have problems.
The dealer would probably just try to put the trans into adapt mode and readapt it then, if you have the problem again they will tell you you will need a new valve body or transmission.
For the mounts...
I've put new mounts in my car myself, the bottom one is easy, 4 bolts underneath, replacing the top one requires you move the charge tube and remove the cover from the spark plugs.
The difference is awesome, car shifts smoother and vibrations at stop lights have been eliminated. But the other problems are still there (rough garage shifts, shift flare in 2-3) I had a stiffer bushing up top before.
A used transmission is around $1500 for one with less than 100k even then theres no guarantee it wont have problems.
The dealer would probably just try to put the trans into adapt mode and readapt it then, if you have the problem again they will tell you you will need a new valve body or transmission.
For the mounts...
I've put new mounts in my car myself, the bottom one is easy, 4 bolts underneath, replacing the top one requires you move the charge tube and remove the cover from the spark plugs.
The difference is awesome, car shifts smoother and vibrations at stop lights have been eliminated. But the other problems are still there (rough garage shifts, shift flare in 2-3) I had a stiffer bushing up top before.
Last edited by Racer_S; 04-06-2011 at 06:23 AM.
#5
the mounts are kinda important for the computer to learn the shifts and stuff. I'd check the tranmission mount under the car in front center. wiggle the arm near the little rear busing side to side, if it moves freely that bushing is gone, you dont need to jack it up or anything (unless yours still has the engine cover)
some times I blip the throttle in neutral very lightly before i put it into drive, this helps stop the clunk/delay 100% of the time.
also try to drive for a while with a very steady pedal. this helps the computer learn the shift I think
the fluid is kind of important, you can only use Mobil 3309 (non synthetic?) or the stuff from the dealer which is pretty expensive if doing a full flush.
theres also a B4 servo cover update at IPD, but I didnt notice anything different when I put it in my car
last time I drove my car I had it do a shift flare for the first time when going on an onramp...
scared me, I think the end may be nearing. :'(
but I saw my bushing is shot and I'm getting oem replacements and some new tires put on on monday so I hope everything will be ok after.
apparently what happens is the valve body goes bad and needs to be replaced.
some times I blip the throttle in neutral very lightly before i put it into drive, this helps stop the clunk/delay 100% of the time.
also try to drive for a while with a very steady pedal. this helps the computer learn the shift I think
the fluid is kind of important, you can only use Mobil 3309 (non synthetic?) or the stuff from the dealer which is pretty expensive if doing a full flush.
theres also a B4 servo cover update at IPD, but I didnt notice anything different when I put it in my car
last time I drove my car I had it do a shift flare for the first time when going on an onramp...
scared me, I think the end may be nearing. :'(
but I saw my bushing is shot and I'm getting oem replacements and some new tires put on on monday so I hope everything will be ok after.
apparently what happens is the valve body goes bad and needs to be replaced.
I finally got around to getting it to a shop and it seems there's a broken mount which was most likely the cause for the vibrations at stop lights.
there's still the problem of the flare shift from 3 to 4 (very rare but a worry, usually when i drive it hard or after driving it hard)
Oil is in good condition and the gearbox has 15.000km on it(but out of it's one year warranty) i don't know if i should hope for the best or curse my luck!!
I'm curious about the results after the mount change.
hope things didn't turn ugly for you!
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