First it started off with my s60 not starting, and the ESC required service and TPMS required service. Then my taillight is showing an error. Then my city safety system is requiring service. Then my headlamps are showing an error. And when I'm driving my brake light flashes on and off for a second or two. Sometimes the engine starts, sometimes it doesn't. This is so far beyond my mechanical skill. What in TF is wrong with my car??

 

I would check the basics first. How old is the battery and what condition is it in? It could simply be a bad battery for the CEM can turn off things less important if it thinks the battery is going dead or weak. Is it the original battery? Could easily be the original given the year of the car.

 

I thought maybe that was what was causing it, I replaced the battery 2 days ago. Problem still persists. Is there a connection loose or something?

 

It only starts up when I jump it do is it a bad alternator?

 

I would check the connection of the (-) terminal to the chassis. If it is loose/corroded/unsound that could cause multiple problems including no start.

 

If the starter will only operate if you use jumper cables connected to another car - your "new" battery is dead or has a very poor connection to the positive cable or the car.

Do you have a voltmeter? Starting at about $7 - you need one to check voltages in the system. Static fully charged battery voltage is about 12.4 volts. Engine running the voltage at the battery should be at least 13.2 volts. Generally over 14 volts at the battery is bad also. If you start the car and the voltage at the battery does not go up to 13.2 volts or so (with the jumper cables disconnected) - your alternator is not charging the battery. (due to bad alternator, bad connections, belt missing, etc.)

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...gg_q=voltmeter

 

If the jump starts are done per the Volvo manual, (+) to battery +, (-) to chassis ground, this would mask any problems with the battery ground.

 

It only needs to be jumped sometimes, not every time. When it does crank it struggles for a second tho. The battery despite being brand new shows 11.45v when the car is off and then slowly charges up to 12.5 when the car is running. The OBD II codes that its throwing are 060, 0103, 2226, and 240b. I'm not sure if the codes are the cause or if they are just a symptom

 

A fully charged battery with no load on it should be ~12.4 volts. If you charge your battery, let it sit for a couple of hours disconnected it should be ~12.4 volts. Anything lower and your battery is bad. If the voltage is only 12.5 volts when the car is running - The CEM will turn things off to keep the fuel and ignition system running as long as possible -

What brand and size battery did you install? Hopefully a name brand size 48-H6

 

A fully charged battery with no load on it should be ~12.4 volts. If you charge your battery, let it sit for a couple of hours disconnected it should be ~12.4 volts. Anything lower and your battery is bad. If the voltage is only 12.5 volts when the car is running - The CEM will turn things off to keep the fuel and ignition system running as long as possible -

What brand and size battery did you install? Hopefully a name brand size 48-H6

 

It is the correct battery size. Napa premium legend 9848

 

If static voltage is less than 12.4 volts on a fully charged battery - the battery is bad (dead cell,mechanical connection inside the battery, whatever - it's just bad)

 

Do you think I got a defective battery or that something else is killing the battery? I'm heting it looked at by a mechanic on Thursday btw

 

Cars fixed. I needed a new ecm and a new module that's under the fuse box. 2k fix. Technician had no idea why it happened but could only figure that I jumped it with the cables on the wrong way (I didn't), or that it was struck by lightning.