timing belt snapped i want to replace
#1
timing belt snapped i want to replace
ok i have exp working on cars and have replaced timing belts but i have not tried one this new much less my wifes 2.5 turbo. the belt snapped so i am looking at pulling the head and reworking almost all the valves, new pulleys and belt. I may reblace waterpump while in there BUT how hard it this. anyone have links to a great video? I have read i have to pull power steering pump and inner fender liner
my worry is this camshaft locking tool. i hear people say need dont need . i made one out of wood no but the 112 dollar tool. i see the timing marks for the cams are 12 noon and crank is 12 noon. is that not enough? what am i missing?
on another note in the mean time we bought a nice 1991 940se to get around in but it have some issues ill ask about on that forum, and my poor daughters 740 wow it needs a miracile but i am not wanting to crush it.
my worry is this camshaft locking tool. i hear people say need dont need . i made one out of wood no but the 112 dollar tool. i see the timing marks for the cams are 12 noon and crank is 12 noon. is that not enough? what am i missing?
on another note in the mean time we bought a nice 1991 940se to get around in but it have some issues ill ask about on that forum, and my poor daughters 740 wow it needs a miracile but i am not wanting to crush it.
#3
Well we can't tell you how hard it is because we don't exactly know how much experience you have. So someone like me or other guys on here, the job isn't very hard but other may not want to attempt it. Now as for the special to, you will definitely need it to get the cams in the correct position when towing the com cover down.
#5
#6
You need the cam locking tool because the variable valve timing gear is spring loaded and you have to hold tension on it while you put the timing belt on. Be sure and take the head to a shop that is familiar with volvo's. All of the tappets are different depending on valve stem length. All of those dimensions will change depending on how deep they grind the valve seats. The shop that I used removed the material from the tip of the valve stem to keep the valve clearance correct. I don't remember if the head bolts are torque to yield but if they are the bolts will need to be replaced. I would be tempted to put a belt on it and do a compression test on the motor before you pull the head.
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