S60 T5 2005, clocked @ 93,000 mile and done the 1st ATF flushed about 8q

I had check engine light flashing problem.

After ATF flushed, too much problem topping up... I m really regret to do the ATF flush while my car still powerful and no problem....

Problem after ATF flush:
1) loss power or underpower;
2) jerking at high speed (70-80miles, RMP 3000-4000)
3) acceleration not so responsive as before flush
4) after reserve parking car at my gargage. Gear at Parking position, every time i blow at RPM2500-3000, exhaust pipe will has a "pop" sound... It MUST happen after reverse parking. I tried drive for 1 mile and park, blow... no "pop" sound... I think reverse gear is the cues...

After these flush problems bothering me for 1 week, today i go to dealer for transmission adaption...

After adaption programming, while I rotate the key to position 2 before start, check engine light will flashing 7 times, after that it will gone. Any idea what is that?

Old problems are not resolve yet... but new is coming... Please help. Think twice before ATF flush.

 

Can I ask a few questions?

1a. Who performed the ATF flush?
1b. How was it done (powerflush w/ machine, flush by removing a trans fluid line, or drain and refill)?
1c. What fluid was used (brand and type)?
1d. How was the fluid replaced (dipstick tube or some other method)?
1e. Was it refilled to the proper level (there are both hot and cold marks)?

It is critical to maintain the proper amount of fluid in the transmission. Too little or too much can both be very bad. The type of fluid used is also extremely important.

I will say that it is possible that the ATF flush and your other problems could be coincidental, meaning two separate issues. Have you tried to read any codes that might be stored? You might be experiencing intermittent misfires.

Do you still have the problems?

 

1a. one of volvo racer DIYer coached me to do that;
1b. open the plug and drained out, then refill 4 liter. After that, removed fluid pipe, flush 1 liter and refill 1 liter, until 4 liter. Total 4+4=8 liter have been changed.
1c. Toyota Type IV - 3 liter, Lucas Oil Multi-Vehicle ATF - 5 liter
1d. new fluid fill through dipstick tube
1e. yes, refill to proper level, maybe slightly...(very very slightly) over the line

You are right, most of my volvo friends said this is coincidental issue.

After transmission adaption download at dealer last week, I believe the problems were gone. Power is back! Gear shifting is ok now.

Regarding the check engine light flashing 7 times while key at position II, I am surprising that most cars at dealer center are all in same. Dealer shown me 1 XC90 2.5T and 1 S60 2.0T, both cars flashing 7 times before gone . The only cues I could find is both cars are newer (year 2006 / 2007) than mine (year 2005). I feel save!!!

Poping sound is regarded as "case closed" to me. One experienced volvo foreman (volvo racer DIYer as well ) who worked at dealer center told me that he had quite some cases like what i had about the poping sound. To the extend of his understanding, the combustion is designed for forward and might not perfect at reverse. Thus, sometime when the combustion is not so perfect at reverse then "poping" might be induced. He feel this is not a problem at all, he said Volkswagen cars are more serious in this poping sound. P/S: Volkswagen center is next the this dealer.

My car is running smooth and no more complain so far. Small problem pops up just today battery flat.

Trying to get a Bosch S5 battery today. The battery seller test the old battery before remove it. He found that the alternator might not working well, only @ 11.9, he said it should run at least 12.8 to charge battery.... He help me to remove the old battery and charge it and reinstall back (make sure i able to start it by tomorrow). I have to visit the volvo dealer again to diagnose the alternator... While problem of alternator is removed, then new battery will be installed.

Any cues about the alternator failure? This is brand new alternator which was replaced about 6 months ago .... Throttle body was cleaned 2 years ago.

 

Glad to hear the transmission is working normal again.

My original alternator stopped working last summer. It went out all at once so the battery was supplying all the power for the car. The first thing that I noticed that was odd was my radio was acting up. The next thing were the dash lights were dimmer than usual. As the voltage dropped even further the different systems (like ABS and SRS) in the car shut down and the dash lights came on like a christmas tree. Shortly after that the car started to sputter as it was having trouble providing enough juice to fire the coils.

A properly running alternator should provide 12.8 to 14.2 volts to the car while running. It's a safe bet that if it is not within that range it should get replaced. It might only be the voltage regulator on it, but the whole unit is quicker and easier to replace. If your alternator is only 6 months old is it covered under warranty?

 

yes, my alternator still under warranty. After visited dealer, i am embarrass that they found nothing wrong about the alternator. They comment that maybe the device used by battery seller is not accurate. I decide to get a VIDA for myself instead of getting busy to visit dealer...

I drove few cars lately, ie Benz c200, Mazda 6, Toyota Altis and Hyundai. I feel these cars are funny... It is hard to convince myself I drove a CAR while driving.

Volvo the best