Hey guys,

I have a strange problem that I need help on.

I have this pulsating/shaking/vibration (don't know the exact word to use) when I apply the brakes. And it doesn't happen all the time but most of the time it does.

I already chenged my Rotors and Pads and still have the same problem.

I would like some ideas on what it might be before I start putting a lot of money into it trying to fix the problem.

 

Did you replace all 4 rotors?

Is the entire car shaking or just the Pedal?

 

Just the pedal and it only from the front.

Yes, all rotors and pads were changed.


Don't know if the Control Arm Bushings might cause it or Tie Rods but it only happens when I brake, NOT during turns and NOT during acceleration.

 

The new rotors might be warped.
Or when you installed them something might have gotten stuck between the rotor and Hub. Like a peice of rust.

 

I vote for the new rotors being warped. If you are fancy, you could always remove the wheels, secure the rotors to the hubs with the wheel bolts and do a runout test with a dial indicator. Or you could remove them and put them on a brake lathe and simply turn them to eliminate the issue. Also, did you grease the caliper bushings with a non-petroleum grease like silicone when you installed the calipers? This needs to be done any time that the brakes are replaced so that the caliper position will adjust as you let off the brakes, and as pad wear occurs..

- Lynn

 

I don't think it's the new rotors

The shaking/vibration was exactly the same before and after replaced the rotors.

 

Like Tech said, it's the rotors.
Take them off and reinstall them. Did you get aftermarket rotors, were they measured for proper thickness?

 

Sounds like warped rotors to me.

 

After market (Brembos and they were measured for the correct size and thickness)

 

Volvo2001 - I'm sure that they do measure for correct size and thickness, but they can still get shelf warped if they were stored incorrectly, or perhaps were a 'bad batch', etc. If you check diagnostic procedures for this type of issue, they tell you to do a rotor runout test with the rotor mounted to the car. Volvo has special tools involved that mount the runout gauge to the spindle, and a special plate that goes over the hub portion of the rotor that secures the rotor to the hub just like the wheels would. At the same time, you can check for bearing hub play to be certain that your problem doesn't lie there. But in the end, if you get pedal pulsation or a 'jerky' feeling when you hit the brakes, it is very likely a rotor/bearing hub issue, as those are the main things that can give you the symptoms that you describe. Have you ever looked at your tie rods and lower control arm bushings? If they are loose, they might get am odd shimmy or something..

 

I have a friend of mine who purchased new endlinks and tie rods for his 01 S60.

He decide to buy heavy duty ones and decided to give me the OEM ones he bought. (Now that's a friend!!)

I'll be putting them in this coming weekend and also take the rotors to the shop to have them checked.

I'll see what happens.

 

change Control Arm Bushings and ball joints, if it bad they will move rotor back and foward when you brake.

 

Damn, I was hoping for a conclusion, because I have the same issue. I think its tie rods and control arms.

 

I've reassembled my entire front end over the course of a year. I am finally down to the end and I'm having this problem too. It didn't start until recently after I removed the rotor/ caliper and knuckle to get to a pesky ball joint. Between time and money, the problem evolved into rotor squealing when I turn and lug bolts so tightly impacted that I broke two spline keys and the tire place couldn't even get them off with their pneumatics. I finally got to take a look at the workings tonight and my rotor seems loose. The locator pin broke when I replaced the ball joint and I feel like that has something to do with it since now my brake pads aren't snug to the rotor. But everyone on every forum seems to think the pins are useless. What could it be? should I switch out to my old rotors that weren't really bad to begin with? I was just switching them out because I was doing the pads and trying to freshen up what I could as I went.

 

It's the brakes.
If you did it yourself, then pull the disks and swap them.
Make sure you lube the pads at the calipers as the directions detail.


If you didnt' do the work, take it back.

 

I did the brakes several months ago. The problem only started when my ball joint started to go. I just put in the third new joint today and reworked the pads on that side since they came loose. Things seem too be going well so far.