Although specifically about a 2003 Volvo S60, the procedure may work for all vehicles. The DD power switch module failed only for the driver's door. The switch had power into it but not out of it to the driver's door. The window's drive motor was operable when direct powered. After trying several used master modules, I took the car to the franchise Volvo dealer whose service manager told me the window could be made operable for approx. $800 without guarantee because the "car had computer issues",. Instead, (a) I returned home to run power and ground wires with a 25 amp inline fuse on each line through the fire wall into the driver's door to a mid-point. (b) Next, examining the "pig tail" connected to the window drive motor, I found six (6) wires. The two largest gauge wires seemed to be carrying the grounding wires. (c) I disconnected the existing cable to power window motor. Using a motor pigtail cut from a junk yard car, I wired the two ground wires (purplish and red with black strip, in this case) to the mid-point of the door so as to end in vicinity of power/ground wires. (d) I used a six (6) pole momentary rocker switch costing about $10 or one could have purchased a switch designed to invert DC power. (e) Wire the switch and place in door panel at place of choice. In this case, a little in front of exiting window module). (f) Now, I have a functioning driver's door power window.

Note: The same could have been done for the power lock. I chose to leave is a manual key operated lock and the mirror as a manual adjustable. No error messages on the digital screen but when scanned DDM errors appear.

Note: I also experimented with creating a workable manual window regulator. Almost as easy as a power rearrangement. After removing the inner door panel, (a) determine the location of the pin/center of the regulator where the two wings are connected. (b) cut about a 1" hole into the inner metal door frame so as to expose this pin/large finished brad. (c) Remove the regulator from the door. (d) Loosen motor from regulator enough to take "cap" off motor and remove the armature. Replace the cap and put motor with cog back onto regulator. I.E. The strength of the magnets will not allow the cogs to turn but the cog is desirable to add resistance to the mechanism. (e) Have available a 3/8" bolt, two nuts, and a lock washer. (f) Using a 5/16" drill, place a very shallow perpendicular hold into the "head" of the brad/pin where the two operating wings overlap. Do not drill deeper than the head of the pin and to top most wing. (g) Put 3/8" female threads into hole. Assure that the 3/8" bold bits into the prepared hole. (h) Replace window regulator into the door. Assure that the threaded hole is accessible through the hole previously made in the inner metal of the door. (I) place a 3/8" hole into the inner door panel so as to center the boarded hole. (j) Cut head from bolt. (k) Using a "lock nut" glue/adhesive in female hold, put the two nuts with lock wash between on bolt. (l) screw bolt into hole. Using "lock nut" glue under nut, tighten first nut against face of regulator. Tighten second nut against lock washer and first nut. (k) use pliers or vice-grips to test lever to be used as handle. one-quarter turn will take window from top to bottom. (m) replace inner door panel. (n) cut bolt shaft to desired length. (o) add lever to end of bolt shaft -or use small vice-grip pliers for lever until more finished lever created. Now, should have a manual window regulator. Again, while the car's computer may show fault codes, the codes will not show on the digital readout.)