Window Noise
Long time since I've been on here. Anyways, for a while now I have been driving around with the rear corner of the driver window making a rushing noise whenever I drive over 30 mph. I know for a fact that there is a gap between the window and the seal on the door. The seal for the window looks the same for all of the other windows, as condition and placement in the door. What I think is causing the problem is the regulator is loose or misaligned. If that is the case, how would I take the door apart to get to it?
Edit: It's a 1991 740 sedan.
Edit: It's a 1991 740 sedan.
There is an adjustment but it rarely solves the problem. The regulator is riveted in and the only sure cure is a new one. The problem is the wear in the crossbars--just a little bit causes the gap and the wind noises.
my 92 740 has that same problem. when I put the window up, I stop an inch before the top, reach over with my other hand, and push the glass backwards into the rear groove, then ride a finger on the top forward corner of the window to keep it back while I raise the window the last inch.
sounds complicated, its really not with practice, but yes, I'm steering with a knee for the 2 seconds to do this.
and yeah, new regulator is the cure. I have one, just havent gotten around to installing it.
you remove the inside panel of the door (slide speaker cover forward, remove red plastic courtesty lens, remove lock ****, remove plastic tray from door handle, then remove 3 or 4 clips from bottom of door panel, swing bottom of panel away from door, unhook panel from top of door, disconnect wires).
carefully remove the plastic moisture barriers
its all exposed now. I believe you lower the window, lift the window glass out of the track and set it aside, then drill out the rivets, unhook the motor power, lift out the regulator, install new one in reverse. or something like that, I haven't done it yet.
sounds complicated, its really not with practice, but yes, I'm steering with a knee for the 2 seconds to do this.
and yeah, new regulator is the cure. I have one, just havent gotten around to installing it.
you remove the inside panel of the door (slide speaker cover forward, remove red plastic courtesty lens, remove lock ****, remove plastic tray from door handle, then remove 3 or 4 clips from bottom of door panel, swing bottom of panel away from door, unhook panel from top of door, disconnect wires).
carefully remove the plastic moisture barriers
its all exposed now. I believe you lower the window, lift the window glass out of the track and set it aside, then drill out the rivets, unhook the motor power, lift out the regulator, install new one in reverse. or something like that, I haven't done it yet.
Great tip:
On all power windows, DO NOT synch them up all the way every time you close them but leave a tiny gap so that the regulator/plastic things/etc will not strain as the temperature changes. This way you'll never have a problem will regulators broken or deformed.
On all power windows, DO NOT synch them up all the way every time you close them but leave a tiny gap so that the regulator/plastic things/etc will not strain as the temperature changes. This way you'll never have a problem will regulators broken or deformed.
my 92 740 has that same problem. when I put the window up, I stop an inch before the top, reach over with my other hand, and push the glass backwards into the rear groove, then ride a finger on the top forward corner of the window to keep it back while I raise the window the last inch.
sounds complicated, its really not with practice, but yes, I'm steering with a knee for the 2 seconds to do this.
and yeah, new regulator is the cure. I have one, just havent gotten around to installing it.
you remove the inside panel of the door (slide speaker cover forward, remove red plastic courtesty lens, remove lock ****, remove plastic tray from door handle, then remove 3 or 4 clips from bottom of door panel, swing bottom of panel away from door, unhook panel from top of door, disconnect wires).
carefully remove the plastic moisture barriers
its all exposed now. I believe you lower the window, lift the window glass out of the track and set it aside, then drill out the rivets, unhook the motor power, lift out the regulator, install new one in reverse. or something like that, I haven't done it yet.
sounds complicated, its really not with practice, but yes, I'm steering with a knee for the 2 seconds to do this.
and yeah, new regulator is the cure. I have one, just havent gotten around to installing it.
you remove the inside panel of the door (slide speaker cover forward, remove red plastic courtesty lens, remove lock ****, remove plastic tray from door handle, then remove 3 or 4 clips from bottom of door panel, swing bottom of panel away from door, unhook panel from top of door, disconnect wires).
carefully remove the plastic moisture barriers
its all exposed now. I believe you lower the window, lift the window glass out of the track and set it aside, then drill out the rivets, unhook the motor power, lift out the regulator, install new one in reverse. or something like that, I haven't done it yet.
And can the regulator be repaired instead of dropping over $100 for a new one?
I've heard say you can shim the /leading/ edge window seal so it sticks up higher, and pushes the window back as it goes up. dunno.
the regulator has this whole scissors thing, with these sliding joints, the nylon wears out so the mechanism sags, I don't think its rebuildable. the older style were bolted in, and you could adjust them some, but once the sliders started to wear out, all bets were off.
the regulator has this whole scissors thing, with these sliding joints, the nylon wears out so the mechanism sags, I don't think its rebuildable. the older style were bolted in, and you could adjust them some, but once the sliders started to wear out, all bets were off.
I've heard say you can shim the /leading/ edge window seal so it sticks up higher, and pushes the window back as it goes up. dunno.
the regulator has this whole scissors thing, with these sliding joints, the nylon wears out so the mechanism sags, I don't think its rebuildable. the older style were bolted in, and you could adjust them some, but once the sliders started to wear out, all bets were off.
the regulator has this whole scissors thing, with these sliding joints, the nylon wears out so the mechanism sags, I don't think its rebuildable. the older style were bolted in, and you could adjust them some, but once the sliders started to wear out, all bets were off.
they are under $50 WITH the motor. what savings?
Volvo Window Regulator Front Right (740 760 940) 3503521 | FCP Euro
Volvo Window Regulator Front Right (740 760 940) 3503521 | FCP Euro
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850GLTWAGON
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Nov 21, 2008 04:14 PM



