I'm having an issue where when I turn the key, the car won't even begin to crank. The dash lights up, the radiator fan turns on, and the AC blower kicks on - but the car won't even start to crank. When it finally does crank - usually after about 30-40 attempts - it's a very weak crank, and it barely gets the car started.

I just replaced my immobilizer antenna ring with a brand new replacement from the dealer, so I know that's not the problem. It could be the ignition switch, starter relay, or the starter itself, I'm guessing. Has anyone here had this problem before and solved it? It's driving me crazy, and I really don't want to have to wonder if my car is going to start each time I get in it...

 

You nailed it!!

Push/wiggle the key when cranking; if it makes a difference, then it's probably the ignition switch (electrical component).

Otherwise have your starter rebuilt/replaced; the starter relay (solenoid) is part of the starter.

 

Hav d battery chcked too

 

Wiggling the key makes no difference, so it musn't be the ignition switch... I purchased a new Starter Relay from RockAuto, as my car hasn't had one for many years (no idea why, I just thought it didn't need it, since I never saw it in the fuse box). I haven't received it yet, but it looks like it fits in the high current fuse box - are you saying that it attaches to the starter itself?

@Manu Noypi - I thought the same thing when the problem started - maybe a loose ground connection or weak batter; however, I got a new battery about 3 months ago, and I've replaced the 'big three' with 0 gauge wire, so my (-) to ground, (+) to alternator, and engine chassis to ground are exceptionally strong.

 

Please keep us in touch of your progress. I am starting to learn about car parts, here and there. Is the Starter Relay and the general starter, two different parts?

 

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-s70-33/car-wont-start-please-help-44571/
check that link. I had the same prob.

 

I'm taking the car to my mechanic on Friday, once the new ABS is installed, to clear the CEL codes. I'll ask him if they're in two different places or one combined unit.

Thanks MrSplean - That was the thread in which I told you how to reset the immobilizer. I tried that, and it didn't fix my cranking problem, so I continued the search for an answer in this thread.

 

Sorry, i have no experience with immobilizers at all; if i have one on my car and ever have issues with it, i will be bypassing it faster than you can say... "frikkin BS".

i also am unfamiliar with this "Starter Relay" your car has got along with without all this time; looking at manual for my 98 S70, there's a "Starter Inhibitor Relay" that allows the immobilizer to disable the starter; maybe that's it?

The relay i was was referring to is the starter solenoid that is integrated into the starter motor assembly. When you get your starter rebuilt, they take everything apart, test all the windings, repair the commutator, new brushes and new solenoid. Oh yeah, they slap some black spray paint on there too...

I don't know if an immobilizer problem can give you a weak/slow cranking, but i doubt it; seems like it would either crank or not.

Typically slow or weak crank is poor connections, bad cables, or bad starter/solenoid assembly itself. If you got over 100K miles on that starter, it's probably due..

 

I had my starter replaced with a Bosch remanufactured unit today. That was totally the problem. The car starts up like a dream now. Just to clarify, this is the starter relay that was missing in my car for a long time, and that I recently installed in the high-current fuse box. It made no difference when I installed it, and I'm not sure that it will make any difference now. Maybe they bypassed that relay in the 2000 S70...I don't know.

However, the starter, and the starter solenoid (which is on the starter itself) have both been replaced, and like I said, it starts up very strong. I'm not sure if it's an easy DIY job, but I didn't feel like trying, so I had my awesome mechanic do it for me. It was $245 for the part, and $170 for labor. Totally worth it, especially since I don't have to worry about whether or not the car will start in the 103 degree Texas heat any more.