Volvo S70 Made from 1998 to 2000, this sporty model replaced the 850 sedan and instantly became a hit.

Any electrical gurus? Take a look.

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Old 04-13-2011 | 12:58 AM
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Angry Any electrical gurus? Take a look.

Ok so this Volvo is quite the nightmare. I replaced the head gasket for a friend on his 98 s70 2.4t and I've had nothing but issues thus far.

Everything was great, new oil, coolant, radiator, head set, o2 sensor and so on and so on. I replaced everything. The car ran great! It started first crank! I drove to the gas station to gas up and get a quart of oil because I forgot the oil cooler was gonna suck up a bunch of oil since it was new. Add the oil and then I was gonna test drive it.

Now for the tricky part! The car didn't start. No crank. I got a ride to my tools and tested all fuses, the battery, the starter, and the starter relay. I even replaced a shady + terminal post knowing that it wasn't the problem. Just for good measure. So it starts right up when I jump the starter solenoid. I test the solenoid wire which is telling me what i already know... No power.

The car needs a ECT so it has a hard start when it's up to temp, but wtf could my no crank b?

I am at the point where I'm gonna route a wire from the solenoid of the starter, directly to the relay. I don't want to do this, because the wire is already there...

It started great the first time after I rebuilt it but then I turn it off and... Nothing.... So is there a magical connector I left unplugged or is the solenoid wire fried? It sure doesn't look like it and I didn't do anything in particular that would have caused a fuse to pop, and besides I checked em all 3 times!!!

Am I missing the obvious? plz help I'm pulling my hair out.
 

Last edited by Kaplan1987; 04-13-2011 at 01:01 AM.
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Old 04-13-2011 | 07:34 PM
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I think it is just ironic that the park neutral position sensor just went bad. It is located on the top of the transmission. Maybe try going from park to L1 about 10 times to try to clean the contacts in the PNP switch,
 
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Old 04-14-2011 | 01:44 AM
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I did think of that but wasn't positive exactly where it was. I think my friend had spilt a soda on the shifter because sometimes it doesn't want to disengage but it's very intermittent. I hit the brake multiple times and I heard the motor that disengages park working 100% of the time. How much stuff do u have to tear apart to get the cowling around the shifter off? I don't want to break it seeing to it that it's not my car. It does not seem to just pop out, neither does the cowling around the e-bake. Does the center console need to come out?
I only ask cause I have limited time with the car cause I gave it back to Him since he works alot.

Right now I have routed a wire straight to the starter solenoid from the relay, but I don't want this to be permanent because if it gets pulled out, the car won't start. My friends not very car savvy and he paid some good change for me to fix it, I like to do things right.

His coolant temp sensor wasn't working for the longest time, when I replaced it he was like Woah! it definitely restricts boost in failsafe! That's crazyness smart but damn that sensor does a lot!
 
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Old 04-14-2011 | 08:17 PM
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Do you just need to adjust the e-brake? If so remove the cover in the console under the arm rest. Then you should be able to adjust it through the hole.
 
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