It should hold up fine. It might be a sensor or a hose.

 

As far as immobilizer code issue, I have found that some code readers, that are not OEM will casue this false code to appear, and then not start on the first start immediately after clearing codes, ignore this. The evap refers to a large leak, so beyond a gas cap, which I have found living in the peoples republic of southern california, that any time you get an evap code, try the simplest thing first, replace the cap, and if it comes back on, trace the vapor lines from the tank to the motor and look for cracked or loose hoses, also examine the filler neck and tubes aswell, anywhere a vapor leak could occur. If there is trully an immobilizer issue, the car will not start and stay running.

 

UPDATE:

Turns out my mechanic is on vacation, which is why I havent seen him in the last two weeks. Anywho, I decided to take it to the Volvo dealership so they can run the scan on the computer and tell me what the code was. The computer returned a code "ECM 611", which looks to be some sort of evap leak in the fuel system. They were going to run a smoke test to see where the leak was exactly, but because of lack of funds, I had to postpone it until next week. They told me it was not a serious problem, but that if I had a smog test, it would fail. Anyone else have some history with this error?

 

It could be alot of things. Bad vacuum line in the system or a bad evap vale.

 

Although I was not able to fix the problem itself, at least I have localized it to a specific system and know where to look now (or at least they know where to look, I dont). They were able to turn the engine light off, but it is only a matter of time before it comes back on. I'll update you on what happens next Tuesday.

 

Worse case you might need a new fuel pump assembly.

 

2ND UPDATE:

I took it to the dealer again today and they ran the quick diagnose again. The check engine light had not come back on despite being driven about 200 miles since last week. Even so, it failed the test and they proceeded to do a smoke test to determine where the problem was. Afterwards, they told me it was not an actual leak, but a sticking purge valve. They went ahead and replaced the valve, which was about 50 bucks, and tested the system again. This time it passed with no problems and the system was cleared. So, that problem has been taken care of, and I can focus on other less important problems with the car.

Thanks to tech and everyone for their input, I really appreciate it!

 

Glad all is good now.