I tried a search, but there didn't seem to be anything for the S70 and I am not familiar enough with Volvo's yet to know if any other models are the same.

Basically, I need the procedure for replacing the head gasket and timing belt. How to line up TDC on the cam gears...where it should be aligned and with what basically and any special procedures on the head gasket replacement itself.

I have a water pump, new gaskets, spark plugs, timing belt, and some misc. other stuff for it. I will have my machinist check the head for cracks and probably do the valve job/seals on it anyway while he has it. And as far as wrenching, I have done a few head gaskets and timing belts on VW, Dodge, and Honda so I have faith I can do it competently with the proper procedural step by step of it so I don't mess up alignment on the timing belt or something during re-installation.

Thanks again guys.

 

Nothing? How about torque specs then? I already have the head off and have it at the machine shop being planed/decked. I just need torque specs for the cylinder head, intake manifold, and exhaust. Thanks.

 

Timing Belt Precausion (sticky): https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-s70-33/timing-belt-precautions-15165/

The motor is simular to the 850's.

 

I pretty much got it all back together today...thanks for the link though. I had read that precaution sticky, but it didn't really have anything specific regarding specs or sequences unless I missed something there. I wound up only having to plain the head as it had about 10 thousandths of warpage/issue to be fixed. Head gasket I had had the head torque sequence and specs (20 Nm, 60 Nm, then 130*). I torqued the valve cover bolts to like 8 ft./lbs. I think...not much as it was going into aluminum with a small bolt. Figured out the timing belt tensioner after a little messing around and examination. Should have it all together tomorrow and I'll run it and post updates on if all is well or if I messed something up :-p

 

Well, I must have messed something up or there was more damage to the motor than originally anticipated. I had the head decked at a machine shop I trust (though I guess it is possible they didn't get it true), reassembled everything, and still have issue.

When I bought the car, it had been overheated, I am guessing pretty badly, and was pushing combustion pressure through the dipstick tube/out of the oil fill cap if opened. Had water mixing with oil as well. Put it all back together with a decked head, new gasket, new head bolts, proper torque steps, and same issue...pushing pressure out of the oil cap and dipstick tube and mixing oil/water like I never did the head gasket.

My guess is the block somehow also warped pretty bad? At this point I am pretty upset I wasted a ton of time if I could have just thrown a new motor at it or a used running one and saved myself some time here...not to mention money.

Anyway, anyone have any input on this? Any other ideas on what could have happened or gone wrong? Had this happen before and can lend some insight on something you missed or know I missed so I can maybe redo this and fix it right the second go around?

 

Sounds like you have a PCV clog issue there, there are many threads on how to deal with that.


Given the nature of your problem, you may want to ask your question on the forum of another Volvo site where you might get more response
www.matthewsvolvosite.com

 

Thanks...that site is pretty good and has some different info. that I will try as soon as I get another chance.

I have a question though, I have a hose with a 45* bend in it and about 4-5" of rubber hose to the air intake boot. Where does the 45* metal fitting/bend go to? I could not locate a place for it to go...it obviously has slight vacuum to it as well as some place to go as it is after the MAF and shouldn't just be dangling in the breeze because it is bringing in unmetered air. I just don't know these cars well enough and I am pretty sure it was not connected to anything before I started so I have no reference.

 

Sorry; clogged clogged PCV won't cause oil to mix with coolant... My guess is your cyl head was/is cracked; did you have the machine shop pressure ck the water jackets?

BTW: how many mls on this pup?

 

Unfortunately, I did not. I skip a step one time and it screws me every time...that's what i get for being in a hurry and trying to get it done quicker without doing every single step. Other people can work on a car with a screwdriver and a hammer and not even scrape off gasket mating surfaces, work in a sand driveway, and beat on the car until things go in place...I try to skip one step and BAM, that winds up being what was wrong with the car.

Anyway, the car has 122K miles and it was overheated, so I should have known better than to try and get away with just decking the head. Volvo's had such a good name/quality reputation, I figured if the Honda Civics and VWs could get grossly overheated and not have a cracked head, maybe this car would be ok. I didn't account for Murphy's Law...

 

I know this is an older post but I had a crx many years ago the developed a hairline crack in the cylinder wall after someone put cool water in it while it was super overheated..
It was hard to find/see but we found it after the same issue.