The car in question is ’99 Volvo S70 GLT, with VVT hub on exhaust camshaft. After putting it back together following valve job it is throwing P0014 code every time I start it up. Based on my internet search, everything is pointing to valve timing being off by one cog of the timing belt. My problem is that I don’t quite see how it happened:

• I used camshaft holder built according to the instructions in Haynes Service and Repair manual.
• I did not take the VVT hub off of the camshaft, only the sprocket itself.
• I put it back together to the original state, aligning the camshaft sprocket marks with cutouts in the timing belt top cover (actually the alignment check on the exhaust camshaft being difficult, I made sure that the marks between exhaust and inlet camshaft are separated by 18 cogs, as it was before disassembly, and aligned the inlet mark as accurately as I could)
• The only questionable piece is the exact positioning of the crankshaft, as the reference mark mentioned by the Haynes book – “cast projection on the oil pump housing” is not quite obvious me. What I see there is a screw boss that is not used for anything. All I know is that when I took the head off (and put it back in exact same position), the first cylinder was exactly at its TDC.

So, now I have a bunch of questions:

• Assuming that the timing is off, what is the best way to position the crankshaft accurately - what’s really the reference to use to match the crankshaft sprocket rib position (pictures would be very welcome here – I have my own pictures showing the alignment of various marks during my latest check that I can post for discussion)
• What would be the easiest method to readjust the timing belt / sprockets without the need to use camshaft holder (a lot of disassembly on the outer end of the camshafts I’d like to avoid if possible).
• Any other ideas – for example the VVT solenoid action (or inaction). Do you know if VVT is supposed to retard the timing at some rpm? The freeze frame on the P0014 code shows it happening at ~1700 RPM.

Looking forward to your comments and advice.
ZP25

 

The "cast projection on the oil pump" is a line cast into the metal, right behind the crank sprocket. It's about 3 mm thick and about 1cm long. That needs to line up with the mark on the crank. As for the code, the VVT system needs to be aligned perfectly, or codes will set. That means following Volvo's instructions to the letter, especially if you take the sprocket off of the hub.

 

Thank you, Carrots, for your answer. It prompted me to search some more and I think I found it.

If I understand it correctly, the sprocket teeth marked by green arrows should bracket the protrusion marked by red arrow. The yellow arrow points to WRONG mark.

Now the question is - what's the most efficient way to reset the timing - using the camshaft holder fixture is probably most reliable, but it requires quite a bit of disassembly. Any tips on how to do it without it?

Thanks in advance,
ZP25

 

When I pulled the cam gears off my cams the gears moved a lot. I didn't realize that those screws that held the gears on had play. The saving grace for me was the fact that I had several alignment marks to help me get it back on in the exact position I took it off.

 

Thanks everybody for the help. I managed to reset the timing quite quickly without locking camshafts. My observations from the process:
1. Inlet camshaft does not move by itself with belt off - it can be rotated easily to the right alignment with timing marks.
2. Exhaust camshaft does rotate, when free from the belt, due to VVT spring.
3. Once the inlet is positioned correctly, exhaust can be rotated to the right position (18 cogs between the marks inlet-exhaust) and fixed there by the belt.
4. Old wear marks on the exhaust sprocket left by the attaching screws are great for resetting the timing to the previous setting.
After all this car runs perfectly, does not throw any CELs anymore.
Thank you again!
ZP25

 

18 cogs you say now that's the tip I was looking for .

 

I have a '99 Volvo s70 and my check engine is on as well reading this same code P0014. It seems that everyone that has had this issue has been when they changed or worked on the timing belt. That is not the case with me. It has been over 2 years or more since I did anything with the timing belt. The cR did sit up for about a year because of some medical issues I had and didn't drive it.
It does not have any issues starting or idling. I'm confused. Can anyone offer some direction on which way to go? I don't want to go through the headaches of tKing stuff apart especially timing belt, and not really have to or to just be fishing for the problem and solution.

 

I'vedone over twenty Volvo timing belts. Just by reading your last statement I can tell you definitely have it off one tooth on the crank. Last one I did I would have bet a million dollars I did it right. Went back and checked finally and I was off. Just saying even the most experienced can get it off.
The thing is. If you think you have the crank at top center. Well you don't. Its actually impossible to stretch the belt on that way. You actually have to set it back a half tooth to install the belt on by hand then rotate it a touch back clockwise to top dead center then rap it around the tensioner pulley. You must have or easily could have knocked it a hair clockwise allowing you to install the belt then when tightening the right side to be able to rap it around the tensioner pulley by hand. You would now be one full tooth to far clockwise. Making sense? you really need to drop the Engine down a couple inches. Get up under there and you'll find the marks on the pulley and belt crank gear and you'll see. Mark it all in three different spots.
What I do now is I have a spare belt laying around and I Mark a brand New belt against my old belt.
Another thing. Last time when I could have swore I had it right. I ended up having to pull the drivers side head pieces of and using the special locking tool to find out wow I was off.
Let me know if you have any other questions. Sounds like you need that tool too or a professional. Live anywhere near Pittsburgh Pa ?

 

Another small glimmer of hope. It could just be a clogged vvt oil screen in the Gasket.

 

I will try to reset the timing again and see if the light goes out. I like the idea of having two belts there.

 

One foolproof way to verify that timing belt replacement is done correctly is to mark the cam and crank sprockets with corresponding marks of the belt itself, then mark the new belt identically before installation. This assumes, of course, that the timing belt was correctly positioned before replacement.

 

For me, the camshaft locking tool is the only way to go. Of course, you have to have the crankshaft dead center on the alignment mark and check it with a flashlight and mirror. Then, those VVT units can really test you.

For the spring loaded tensioner, turn it clockwise to the locking point and then hold it there while the belt is put on. With the cam locking tool in place, you know that the cams are in the right position so just make sure that the VVT is clockwise.