pcv system tools
#1
pcv system - the tools needed
So I want to attempt to go at my PCV system by ordering the fcp groton kit. I know there are great write ups on the 850 turbo which are essentially the same as my car but I can't find a clear list of the exact tools that are needed to work with this kind of kit.
Can anyone tell me exactly what tools I need for a DIY repair using this kit?
I might even clean the throttle body while I'm in there, just need the proper tools/advice.
As detailed as possible would help, even if I need ramps for example.
Can anyone tell me exactly what tools I need for a DIY repair using this kit?
I might even clean the throttle body while I'm in there, just need the proper tools/advice.
As detailed as possible would help, even if I need ramps for example.
Last edited by Pej; 02-16-2012 at 07:52 AM. Reason: forgot detail
#2
I have a separate small tool chest at work with the tools (a combination) to do flame traps on all Volvo cars. 4 hour book time, got it under 1.5 when I wasn't interrupted.
The tools are my secret to doing the job fast, and efficiently with NO MISTAKES. sorry not going to share my tool list.
done 5 traps so far this week.
here we go. TIPS
do not take the lower intake manifold bolts off.
remove the fan for more room.
remove dipstick tube compleatly so you don't break it.
lower intake support remove upside down bolt loosen block bolt.
do not remove every vac hose you see that goes for connectors as well.
no need to remove intake from engine bay, rotate it up out of the way.
DO NOT remove the thermostat housing, no need to remove rad hose ither.
use side cutters for the stupid crimp clamps.
wire tie flame trap hoses.
use carb cleaner on flame trap holes, soak for a few minutes, use small screw driver to get gunk.
intake, use carb cleaner
throttle body, use carb cleaner
there are a lot of steps, but don't remove more than you have too. happy wrenching.
The tools are my secret to doing the job fast, and efficiently with NO MISTAKES. sorry not going to share my tool list.
done 5 traps so far this week.
here we go. TIPS
do not take the lower intake manifold bolts off.
remove the fan for more room.
remove dipstick tube compleatly so you don't break it.
lower intake support remove upside down bolt loosen block bolt.
do not remove every vac hose you see that goes for connectors as well.
no need to remove intake from engine bay, rotate it up out of the way.
DO NOT remove the thermostat housing, no need to remove rad hose ither.
use side cutters for the stupid crimp clamps.
wire tie flame trap hoses.
use carb cleaner on flame trap holes, soak for a few minutes, use small screw driver to get gunk.
intake, use carb cleaner
throttle body, use carb cleaner
there are a lot of steps, but don't remove more than you have too. happy wrenching.
Last edited by Lifesgoodhere; 02-16-2012 at 06:51 PM.
#3
The FCP kit comes with the funny hose clamps, you may want to pick up a pair of those clamp crimpers.
I would not use zip ties to secure hoses. Plastic gets brittle in a few years, especially when close to heat. Your call.
Do clean the throttle body but if you can, use throttle body cleaner. I was told that carb cleaner may strip a coating off the throttle body. They do sell throttle body cleaner.
Change oil after you do the PCV change. I usually try to change the oil within 100 miles.
Most tools are already in your tool box. You may want to get 6" of fuel injector hose. I believe the size is 5/16". You will likely have to cut the fuel line off the rail.
I also used a pair of long, bent, needle nose plyers.
Keep a magnet handy, start early, and I hear the '99's have a little more stuff to remove because of the ETM.
I would not use zip ties to secure hoses. Plastic gets brittle in a few years, especially when close to heat. Your call.
Do clean the throttle body but if you can, use throttle body cleaner. I was told that carb cleaner may strip a coating off the throttle body. They do sell throttle body cleaner.
Change oil after you do the PCV change. I usually try to change the oil within 100 miles.
Most tools are already in your tool box. You may want to get 6" of fuel injector hose. I believe the size is 5/16". You will likely have to cut the fuel line off the rail.
I also used a pair of long, bent, needle nose plyers.
Keep a magnet handy, start early, and I hear the '99's have a little more stuff to remove because of the ETM.
#5
took way too much stuff off. do not remove the knock sensor, broken one once removing it, 3 days to get another. no need to remove throttle body to clean it. not sure why he removed both turbo hoses. NO need to remove "C" in step 6. DO NOT mess with the 2 big hoses on the throttle body for the idle control valve you can damage them very easily.
The PTC, just hose it down with carb cleaner, if you try to remove it from that hose you will NEVER get it back on (might take hours) if you really want you can take that entire hose off to clean it, just don't remove that valve from the hose!
you will break the hose going around the corner of the block. you can use smog tubing, or just by a new preformed hose there cheap enough.
The PTC, just hose it down with carb cleaner, if you try to remove it from that hose you will NEVER get it back on (might take hours) if you really want you can take that entire hose off to clean it, just don't remove that valve from the hose!
you will break the hose going around the corner of the block. you can use smog tubing, or just by a new preformed hose there cheap enough.
Last edited by rspi; 02-17-2012 at 08:29 AM. Reason: typo
#6
thanks for the good responses. I predict I'll know EXACTLY what you guys are talking about when I actually open the parts up and come to certain points where I say "sh** that's what they were talking about".
I want to be ready for the whole situation so a pair of ramps is definitely part of this repair, right? since it makes things easier to open up certain parts from under the car?
I want to be ready for the whole situation so a pair of ramps is definitely part of this repair, right? since it makes things easier to open up certain parts from under the car?
#7
I use the link that GDog gave. It made things easy for me but it has taken me 5 hours each time. If there is a way to cut that job down to 2 hours, I'd be all in. I did see the fuel hose/line is step 6-c is 5/16" and the tool in step 10 is a little different.
I do have ramps and used them. Not much to do under the car other than get the bolt for the oil dipstick tube back in and maybe one other bolt in the oil trap.
Here is another link you can check out. I might have looked through it a few times because it has more pics.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...457d7f521fe8f3
I do have ramps and used them. Not much to do under the car other than get the bolt for the oil dipstick tube back in and maybe one other bolt in the oil trap.
Here is another link you can check out. I might have looked through it a few times because it has more pics.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...457d7f521fe8f3
Last edited by rspi; 02-17-2012 at 08:36 AM. Reason: add
#8
#9
Well Life, got one done a little faster this time. Did a N/A car and we got it done in 2-1/2 hours. Was a little tripped up by iPd's kit, matching the parts but that didn't really take long. Would take longer on a turbo car but I don't think I can get it down no lower than that.
got one on hoist and off hoist and running again in 1.75 hours last Friday. I was only stopped one time, that was waiting for more zip ties from the parts store.
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