Power Window issue...
#1
Power Window issue...
Hello All, I am a very new member and I have to admit, I don't have a Volvo but my son does. It is a 98 S70. He has a problem with the front Pass window. Namely, the window is down now and will not go back up. I went to a "Pull a Part" bone yard and pulled a window motor off of a crash victim. My problem is, I can't figure out how to get the old one off with out damaging the plate that it is mounted to. Any help with this will be greatly appreciated.
#2
Hi John, welcome to the forum. We won't knock you for not having your own Volvo. We'll feel sorry for you later.
I moved your post to the S70 section which will hopefully speed up your replies.
Not 100% sure how to get the motor out of the door. On most cars it comes out as part of the regulator. It should come out the same as it did from the donor car.
These motors rarely fail, usually the switch assembly at the drivers door does. I guess the best way to confirm that the motor is out is to make sure both window switches don't work and/or unplug the motor and plug in the donor motor to see if it works.
The hard part to me is getting the window loose from the regulator. I usually use some hooked needle nose plyers.
I moved your post to the S70 section which will hopefully speed up your replies.
Not 100% sure how to get the motor out of the door. On most cars it comes out as part of the regulator. It should come out the same as it did from the donor car.
These motors rarely fail, usually the switch assembly at the drivers door does. I guess the best way to confirm that the motor is out is to make sure both window switches don't work and/or unplug the motor and plug in the donor motor to see if it works.
The hard part to me is getting the window loose from the regulator. I usually use some hooked needle nose plyers.
#3
Yes, I am inclined to believe that it is the switch too but I have torn in to it a little bit. I did buy a used motor and when I hook it up it works (just hanging there, not installed). The motor that is on the door makes a clicking noise but thats it; it is almost like it is in a bind. I am afraid to put too much pressure on it (lifting the window, etc) because I don't want to break the glass. Is the clicking a clue?
Last edited by John Clawson; 04-08-2012 at 10:50 AM. Reason: missed a word.... :)
#4
#5
Thats where I am really having a problem. I can see one of the clips to pull but can't get to it. I can't even see the other one. I know you mentioned curved Needle nose pliers and I can see how they may work on the outside (clip closest to the lock side of the door) one but I have no clue as to how to get to the inside one...I took the drivers side apart too to look a what it would look like with the window up and that makes all the difference in the world but unfortunately the window is down... Its too bad that the motor didn't go out with the window up....
#6
#7
I too am having the same problem. The window went down fine using both switches, then when my wife tried to put the window up since she was cold and it wouldn't go up. No click or anything, just silence, yet when you press down on the window button you can hear the motor click itself off because the window is already all the way down (it does this on both the drivers side and passenger side window switches). All the other windows in the car are working fine (drivers, left and right rear), just not the passenger side. Could it just be the master switch pack since the motor still wants to move down and not up?
#9
The first problem I want to deal with is the passenger window. As with the others in this thread, it is stuck down. Before I found this thread I had ordered a used motor off ebay. I plugged it in. The down switch makes the motor work. The up switch does not. You can hear the original motor attempt to work down (of course it won't as the window is down) but apparently the problem is electrical. Neither the drivers switch pack nor the passenger switch will raise the window.
#10
I went home at lunch and by pulling the plug off of the motor and reversing the wires from the plug to motor with jumpers was able to raise the window by pushing the passenger switch down. There is no effect from pushing it up. The drivers side switch has no effect on the passenger front window whatsoever.
I did pull the drivers side master switch cover off. It was dirty in there and a fair amount of evidence of burning - especially at the contacts to the drivers window (although the master switch will still operate the drivers and both rear windows).
So my question(s), do I simply need to replace the master switch - does it have a failure mode where it will cut power to the up portion of the passenger window but allow it to the down portion - or do I need to replace both the master and passenger side switches - or can there be something else causing the problem?
Thanks
I did pull the drivers side master switch cover off. It was dirty in there and a fair amount of evidence of burning - especially at the contacts to the drivers window (although the master switch will still operate the drivers and both rear windows).
So my question(s), do I simply need to replace the master switch - does it have a failure mode where it will cut power to the up portion of the passenger window but allow it to the down portion - or do I need to replace both the master and passenger side switches - or can there be something else causing the problem?
Thanks
#11
Fixed
I bought a new master switch from midwest-autoparts on ebay - it was $104.54 with free shipping. I plugged it in. The passenger front window still could not be controlled by it and I still could not raise the window with the passenger side switch. So, I took the passenger side window switch apart and cleaned the contacts (it was not burned badly like the old driver side switch was). I put it all back together and it all works great now. A new front passenger switch panel with the door lock switch is a bit less than $40, btw.
While I probably didn't have to have the new drivers master switch, I don't have buyer's remorse. The contacts in the old one were burned badly. I even witnessed some arcing in it. And from an aesthetic standpoint, the individual switches had become gooey and ugly. The new one looks great - new.
Speaking of gooey switches (and keys) - what's best to clean these with? My power mirror switch is pretty tacky.
While I probably didn't have to have the new drivers master switch, I don't have buyer's remorse. The contacts in the old one were burned badly. I even witnessed some arcing in it. And from an aesthetic standpoint, the individual switches had become gooey and ugly. The new one looks great - new.
Speaking of gooey switches (and keys) - what's best to clean these with? My power mirror switch is pretty tacky.
Last edited by rodneygt; 06-07-2012 at 03:16 PM.
#12
I replace the window unit in my passenger door yesterday. I burned out the motor when the driver control broke, and it was stuck in the "up" position.
Anyway, I got, from Voluparts, a used window motor and regulator for 75 bucks. I took it all apart, and holy **** it was a bear to replace, however, the Haynes Guide did a pretty good job. Just a couple tips:
pull the door handle off, and rip out the foam behind it, this will allow you access to the left-hand clip thing.
buy extra green clips, they were $1.50 from Voluparts.
set aside about two hours or so to get it all done right. you can do it with a 10mm socket and the car's toolkit (that one torx bit, actually)
I mention Voluparts because my former scoutmaster owns the place, and he won't cheat you on any of it. Hell, he wasn't even there when I bought the parts, and one of his employees came out into the parking lot to help me fix it.
Anyway, I got, from Voluparts, a used window motor and regulator for 75 bucks. I took it all apart, and holy **** it was a bear to replace, however, the Haynes Guide did a pretty good job. Just a couple tips:
pull the door handle off, and rip out the foam behind it, this will allow you access to the left-hand clip thing.
buy extra green clips, they were $1.50 from Voluparts.
set aside about two hours or so to get it all done right. you can do it with a 10mm socket and the car's toolkit (that one torx bit, actually)
I mention Voluparts because my former scoutmaster owns the place, and he won't cheat you on any of it. Hell, he wasn't even there when I bought the parts, and one of his employees came out into the parking lot to help me fix it.
#13
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