The past few days when I start my car in the morning,it hesitates before it starts as if my battery is low.I noticed that the SRS light and and arrow comes on temporarly then goes away,is that sign of a bad PNP or something else,I have no CEL.

 

Sounds like a problem with the cable, more specifically, the positive cable, where the smaller wires bolt on to the top of it- that connection carries a lot of current, and just a little corrosion causes too much resistance, which makes it heat up, which makes it corrode even more, which creates more resistance... you can see where this is going. Take off the nut, and clean any corrosion off, then coat it with vaseline and reattach. Also, check the power lead in the main fuse box- that one is susceptible to the same issue. Also, get your battery tested- if it's losing capacity, cranking voltage could be dropping to the point where the TCM and SRS module are seeing a temporary fault. Good luck!

 

Carrots are you talking about the battery cable.
If it is,then it,s not the problem because I have no corrosion whatsoever very clean,although my battery did die last week,I got it recharge and was told that the battery is good,I have had it for 3 years.

 

I'm not specifically talking about the battery cable, I'm talking about the auxiliary cable bundle that attaches to a stud on the positive cable. See if it gets hot after the car has been running, and actually take off the nut that holds it down to see what it looks like- you often can't see the corrosion without taking it off. Be careful- if there's been arcing (which is often the case) it's possible that the nut may be fused to the stud, so it it's hard to loosen, turn it back and forth a few times, or you risk breaking the stud. Of course, if that's the case, then you just found the problem! Also, the other cable I'm referring to is the main connection inside the main fuse box.

Another possibility is that your starter could be on its way out- that would cause an excessive drain on the battery while it's engaged, possibly bringing voltage below the point where various control modules would see a fault.

 

Both cables are clean,so that,s out of the question.
is there a way to check the starter.
BTW,where is the starter located.

 

Well, some auto parts stores will wheel a machine out that will do a starter draw test... but that's not always accurate, and the people at the parts stores are frequently not adequately trained (I know this from my college days when I worked at Advance!) If you go to have them do this, and they tell you the starter is bad, then it probably is. The inaccuracy of this sort of test is that it'll usually give a false positive. Thankfully, they don't charge for this service. The starter is located just below the intake manifold- generally, to get to it, one removes the cooling fan assembly, which will allow access. A way that you can test the starter- again, not 100% accurate, but it will give you an idea- make sure that the battery is definitely fully charged and passes a load test, then connect a multimeter to the battery terminals, with it set on the DC volts setting. It should read between 12.2 and 13V. Disable the engine so that it won't start- on a '98, that means "disconnect the coil. On a 99 or 00, remove the fuel pump relay, then start the car until it runs out of fuel pressure and dies. Then, have an assistant crank the engine for about 15-30 seconds, and observe the voltmeter. If it drops below 10.5 or so volts, then the starter is probably drawing too much power. Again, this assumes that the battery is fully charged and passes a load test, and it's not 100% accurate but it's the best that a home mechanic can do without expensive special equipment to actually measure current draw.

 

wow,I,ll give it another week or so if the problem persists then I,ll probably have it replaced.
Thanks again.

 

It's something I would definitely have tested first... Starters aren't the cheapest part, and since I can't see the car, all I'm giving here is an educated guess based on my experiences with these vehicles. But hopefully things get taken care of soon!

 

unless I can get it tested at a Shop,I don,t have the tools nor know how to do it myself.

someone is selling one locally for under $50.00 from a car with 88,000 miles,maybe the installation will cost me more.

 

Carrots,

I've been around the block a few time (fixen cars since I was a kid). and hadn't seen this shade tree starter test. Thanks again for the info!

chachouu, take a good look at what this takes to do. I've not done a Volvo like yours, but have done several over the years, and in general they've been pretty straight forward to do.

Good Luck!
Jerry

 

I looked at it,very Tight in there.
I have done a few things myself like the Lower arms and axle and front motor mount,but the Starter is in a bad location,would rather just pay a local Mechanic in Miami $50-70 bucks to replace.
anyone here from Miami let me know,lol I gotta job for u.