timing belt problem
I have been told nothing but horror stories that if the timing belt slips, like mine did, that it is too late and the valves are bent and need replacing. Background: I have a 2000 S70 with 180,000 miles. On my way home I noticed car was running rough, next morning started the car and it vibrated really bad with a ping sound for about 15 seconds then shut off. Took the cover off and checked the spark plugs to make sure they were tight, just recently had them replaced and they were ok. Looked at timing belt and it had a crack in it and I was able to slide it from side to side. Volvo dealership said it would be $600 to replace if that is the only problem, then the horror stories started about the valves. Price sky rockets. Anybody with experience about the difficulty of changing T.B. and truth behind the valves. Also was told to change water pump while working on T.B.
Yes if the belt slips or breaks it usually bends valves. If the car stalled most likely they are bent.
But if you want to try check out this site it isn't the best but might give you an idea.
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ic/ic60326.htm
Then before starting it try doing a compression test.
But if you want to try check out this site it isn't the best but might give you an idea.
http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ic/ic60326.htm
Then before starting it try doing a compression test.
Yes, the timing belt synchronizes the valve cycle with the piston cycle, so if it slips and they get "out of time"... ka-runch is the normal result, and there is a lot of labor involved in removing the intake and exhaust manifolds and cylinder head (along with the crap on top of them).
Assuming that the valves are indeed mashed, one option to at leastinvestigatemight beto look at having a competent garage swap in a cylinder head from a wrecked car that is still good (competent valve sealsand without cracks in it). Some salvage yards seem to inspect and 'guarantee' their parts. Not sure how it will all work out, but this might save you some money over having the dealer rebuild your head, since you can likely get lower labor costs at an independent garage for all the work beyond the actual head, plus even an entire salvage cylinder head might be cheaper than having a dealer rebuild yours?
Assuming that the valves are indeed mashed, one option to at leastinvestigatemight beto look at having a competent garage swap in a cylinder head from a wrecked car that is still good (competent valve sealsand without cracks in it). Some salvage yards seem to inspect and 'guarantee' their parts. Not sure how it will all work out, but this might save you some money over having the dealer rebuild your head, since you can likely get lower labor costs at an independent garage for all the work beyond the actual head, plus even an entire salvage cylinder head might be cheaper than having a dealer rebuild yours?
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