Timing Belt Repair
I am getting ready to replace the timing belt on my recently bought 98 s70 T5. What other replacement are recommended, that are relatively easy to do while changing the timing belt. I figure if I am getting into this project, I may as well get the most done as possible.
51,000 miles. I just dont know if they changed the timing belt at 5-6 years as per mfg recommendations. So I suppose the only way to find out is to get in there and look, once I get to it I might as well change it. lol. Thanks, I had not thought about the water pump. This weekend or next I will be venturing under this new (to me), strange, and mysterious thing they call a volvo, and you guys are a huge help.
Thanks
Thanks
Tech, thank you for your posts, i have read several in the last day or so. I picked up a 98 Volvo s70 GLT 4 speed automatic recently. It's at the 70k mark. Can you kindly recommand where i can go and find the parts to do the timing belt replacement? Furthrmore, the rotors are some what warped (or pad deposite), some guy told me Volvo rotors can't be resurfaced, is that true?
Thank you for your help and anyone else can can contribute.
Thank you for your help and anyone else can can contribute.
I recently replaced my timing belt... when I did it, i replaced timing belt(of course), water pump, radiator hoses, thermostat, belt tensioner, (main) belt(forgot what its exact name is sorry) Did it all just to do it while i was there. Radiator hoses was the hardest part, damn it was tight in there. heh
Volvo does not recommend turning rotors, but I have done it before to save a guy who was low on cash.
Timing belt job is not too bad. You can usually get away with doing just the belt and tensioner, but inspection of the water pump is crucial because nobody like to do the job twice.
Timing belt job is not too bad. You can usually get away with doing just the belt and tensioner, but inspection of the water pump is crucial because nobody like to do the job twice.
Hello,
If the timing belt replacement is similar to 850, here's alink toone of my posts found at:
https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm
For me, the hardest part was to remove the Torx bolt from the tensioner pulley, as it was extremely tight and the Torx stripped. In the end, I grabbed the "flange" around the Torx bolt with a Vise-Grip and broke the torque. After that, it turned like nothing. Also, if you do the belt without removing the crank pulley (which I did), getting the belt past the pulley is quite challenging due to limited space. Be sure to clean the area thoroughly, as the belt will be weakened if oil gets onto it. Also, be sure to read a service manual before removing anything. Many have stated that they had difficulty seeing the timing marks on the cam pulleys & the crankshaft pulley, so you may want to "enhance" them with correction fluid. I actually found a large botch on the crank pulley, which was very easy to see. But I had to search for it, as the manual only leads you to that tiny mark. When you inspect for the water pump leak, make sure to check for oil leak from the hydraulic tensioner (the small cylinder that is pushing against the tensioner pulley). If you see oil leak, replace the hydraulic tensioner. If not, see if Moderator Tech or Johnny could provide you with recommended replacement intervals.
As to the brake components, everyone has given you the right info. In general, European makes use rotors that are designed to wear IAW the pads, and the rotors are just thick enough for this type of operation (If you observe, you'll notice that many European cars have sooty front wheels due to rapid wear of the pads). So, if you need to do the brakes, forget aftermarket parts and go with OEM. Here's a good vendor many of us use:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo.htm#c70
In case if the brakes, especially the rears squeak, try using some CV-joint grease; this eliminated the squeak from my 850 permanently. CV-joint grease is of molybdenum-based, and moly-based grease is very effective under high load/pressure (but make sure not to get it on the friction surfaces).
Good luck & safety first!
JPN
If the timing belt replacement is similar to 850, here's alink toone of my posts found at:
https://volvoforums.com/m_48928/tm.htm
For me, the hardest part was to remove the Torx bolt from the tensioner pulley, as it was extremely tight and the Torx stripped. In the end, I grabbed the "flange" around the Torx bolt with a Vise-Grip and broke the torque. After that, it turned like nothing. Also, if you do the belt without removing the crank pulley (which I did), getting the belt past the pulley is quite challenging due to limited space. Be sure to clean the area thoroughly, as the belt will be weakened if oil gets onto it. Also, be sure to read a service manual before removing anything. Many have stated that they had difficulty seeing the timing marks on the cam pulleys & the crankshaft pulley, so you may want to "enhance" them with correction fluid. I actually found a large botch on the crank pulley, which was very easy to see. But I had to search for it, as the manual only leads you to that tiny mark. When you inspect for the water pump leak, make sure to check for oil leak from the hydraulic tensioner (the small cylinder that is pushing against the tensioner pulley). If you see oil leak, replace the hydraulic tensioner. If not, see if Moderator Tech or Johnny could provide you with recommended replacement intervals.
As to the brake components, everyone has given you the right info. In general, European makes use rotors that are designed to wear IAW the pads, and the rotors are just thick enough for this type of operation (If you observe, you'll notice that many European cars have sooty front wheels due to rapid wear of the pads). So, if you need to do the brakes, forget aftermarket parts and go with OEM. Here's a good vendor many of us use:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo.htm#c70
In case if the brakes, especially the rears squeak, try using some CV-joint grease; this eliminated the squeak from my 850 permanently. CV-joint grease is of molybdenum-based, and moly-based grease is very effective under high load/pressure (but make sure not to get it on the friction surfaces).
Good luck & safety first!
JPN
I use the Brembo rotors from fcpgroton and OEM pads. Definitely OEM pads. I have had nothing but squealing brakes with anything else. I choose to have dirty wheels over squealing brakes.
What do you want pictures of? If it's the timing belt you can go to Bay 13 of volvospeed.com and they have pictures available. Still very hard to find the mark on the crankshaft though. Especially when you are 58 years old with not too good of eyesight.
Here is a link to the sight:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.php
Here is a link to the sight:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.php
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