You could put them in a drill to spin them to see of they are bent.

As for the keepers, you'd have to buy a valve spring compressor, which is similar to what you made

 

My method is to time the cams out of the head, brace them, then set them in place when you are putting things back together. You should have everything timed before you install the cam cover or you can damage valves if you try to time it after the cover is on.

Have you pulled the head yet? Is the bolt sticking out of the block at all?

 

Either pull all valves out and check them or send the thing to a shop to do it. I'm not sure if The heads of the valves sit at a 90° angle or not, I would think so. Exhaust valves are made of different material than intake valves. They need to seat 100% correct and they should be "lapped" or they will burn real fast.

Anything less than perfect will cause you another trip in these so there is NO cutting corners.

 

The broken head bolt is recessed down in the block. It was the last 1-½" of threads that snapped.

I noticed the difference in material when I pulled the head off - the intake valves had a slight layer of black carbon while the exhaust valves had white specks on them. I am going to finish pulling them all tomorrow night.

I have a valve spring compressor, but it won't work for these where they are recessed down into the head. Works great on the old GM motors though... It looks more like a crowbar than a socket. I would say this is the first foreign car I've owned, but I owned a Saab 9-5 for about 2 weeks . Definitely the first one I've done any extensive work on before...

I'm looking to do everything here on my own. I don't have the money to send anything to a shop... $0 in my pocket and my vehicle situation lately has really hurt the bank account.

2 bent valves vs. 2 valves that "look" straight.

 

If I can't get this bolt out of the block, I'm going to be replacing the whole motor with a junkyard one as I planned originally. What is the difference between 1998 and 1999 S70 motors? (2.4 not turbo). 99s seem to be cheaper and more available than 98s... can I put a 99 in my 98?

 

Read this thread and see if there are tips here to help you get the bolt out.

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...d+bolt#p268913

There are a few differences between the motors but I think they can be used.

 

Fill the bolt hole with Kroil. While it's sitting go rent a drill with a magnetic base. [Make sure the drill will run in reverse]. Buy a high quality left hand drill bit. Smack the bolt stub hard with a punch and BFH. Then try and get the bolt stub to unscrew using the left hand drill bit.

One of the reasons I like my DeWalt cordless electric impact wrenches is they don't generate enough torque to break bolts but they will work a bolt back and forth until it frees up.

 

Why a drill with a magnetic base? I have a corded, very high powered drill. When I told my dad what happened he said I should've used an impact and worked it back and forth before trying to break it free by hand, but I feel like that could've warped/damaged the head?

 

A magnetic base drill will hold it's position centered on top of whatever you're trying to drill. It would also kept the bit perpendicular to the block and eliminate any hand held drilling angle error. That way you can focus on trying to get the broken bolt out.

 

Forgot about the impact. The advantage of the impact is it's hammering effect on the bolt. With turning it by hand you keep increasing the torque until you feel it's excessive or it breaks. With the impact it's hitting it and that hitting helps break it loose.

I bought a silly looking snap-on 1/4 drive impact. Used to get a bunch of crap about why the hell I had it. I use it for spark plugs and bleeder screws. It doesn't have enough torque to break the bleeder or pull the spark plug threads but it has enough to break them free (in most cases).

 

Good luck getting that bolt out. It can be done- I got good at it with my last VW project.

Soak the hole with your favorite penatrant for as long as possible. Try to drill in the very center (the magnetic base drill is a VERY good idea in this case) and then use an easy out. Tough, but doable. Post a pic of the damage, would be interested in seeing what you are up against.

Chances are you can have your current head redone by a machine shop. If you decide to get a new head, keep in mind you HAVE to use the same cover as the head and cover are machined as one unit. You will most certainly burn your cams if you mix and match.

It costed me $650 to have my head redone when I bought a Volvo with a broken timing belt. 10 out of 20 valves were bent, and a couple of the guides were cracked. This also included valve seals, the new valves, surfacing, seats and such. Well worth the money and it helps knowing that it was done right.

Just so you know, the head bolts must be replaced. They are a torque to yield, and stretch after the first use. Also the head gasket will need replaced...you protbably know that but just in case. (I didn't the first time I rebuilt an engine)

Oh, and when you go to put your cam covers on, take your time. If I were to do it again, I would only put the seals in on the cam gear side. On the other side under the timing and cam position sensor put those seals in after you set the cams.

Good luck and feel free to ask questions. If you can get that bolt out I see absolutely no need to purchase a new block. My one thing I would strongly recommend is get your head surfaced by a machine shop, and if you can save the current head, do it.

 

Before you try to drill or easy out that bolt, while it's soaking it might be a good time to use a punch and hammer and smack it a couple times to hopefully break it free.

I would highly recommend using the ARP assembly lube when you put it back together. It's one of those products that lives up to it's hype and really does help you hit the proper torque spec.
It's not engine assembly lube it's only for the fasteners.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ar...Fe07MgodNVYA5Q

 

+1 , I'm with him.

 

For the valve springs, here's what you do: most parts stores have a few different valve spring compressors in their loaner tool program. One looks like a crowbar (the one you describe) one looks like a gear puller, and the other is this huge C- clamp like contraption. That's the one you need. Then, go to the hardware store and get a small piece of PVC pipe- 1" diameter. cut a piece about 3" long, then notch it about 1/4 the diameter to about 1.5-2" deep. Do the same on the other side of the pipe. Put this between the part of the spring compressor that is supposed to push on the spring and the spring itself. Use the openings to get the keepers out once you've compressed the springs. Use tweezers, little picks, and a magnetic pick- up tool to get them out. It's a bit tedious as first, but you'll get the hang of it after the first couple valves.

 

Didn't realized how long I've been letting this project take the back burner...

I came across an engine for $150, so it looks like I'm going that route instead. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions though.

When swapping the whole engine, is there anything in particular I should be aware of? I've helped with swaps in Jeeps and classic cars. Never on an import or FWD car.

 

Where are you located at ??

 

Southern NH. The motor I found is in Vermont but it's only gonna cost about $50 in gas to go pick it up in either my jeep or my dad's truck.

 

I'm looking for an engine to rebuild but you are waayyy to far for that.

You might consider adding your location to your "User CP" in your profile. Nice thing is you might have someone close to help you with a problem in person or someone might pop up to offer a part or ask for your old one.
Just a thought.