I have a 1998 S79 VIN55 2.14l 5cyl motor with automatic trans.
After 316k miles it blew a head gasket.
I now have a complete and identical used engine with 96k miles.

What new parts besides these are needed for the swap?
1.Timing belt
a. Water pump, tensioner, bolts, gasket
2. 2 gal Volvo transmission oil
3. 6 quarts synthetic 10-30 oil and filter

 

Why would you need to drain the transmission? How do you know the other motor is in good condition? It may not need a new t-belt, etc...

 

The transmission fluid has never been changed.
Not only is it supposed to be standard practice, but I think it is about time.

I may try pulling the old engine without trans, but not sure how.
This will be first time transverse FWD engine swap.
What I need is a good book telling me step by step how to do it.

 

Alldata's information is great. They have a site for DIYers which provides the same info they give to us pros, on a per- vehicle basis. ALLDATAdiy.com :: Leading Source of Diagnostic and Repair Information. The engines do come out without the transmission, but changing the trans fluid isn't a bad idea. No need to use the Volvo fluid, though. The transmissions in these cars are Toyota transmissions, actually (Aisin-Warner, owned by Toyota, and lots of the parts interchange with Toyota transmissions.) Your car is a 1998, so it's a 4- speed, which uses plain old Dexron III/ Mercon transmission fluid. (it's abbreviated to "Dex-Merc or D/M because GM and Ford discontinued the license to those names) Note that later cars with the 5- speed automatic use a special fluid. You can either pay through the nose at the Volvo dealer, or go to a Toyota dealer and get "T-IV" fluid, which is the same thing, for much less. Or get Mobil 3309 trans fluid, which is, again, the same stuff.

As for what you should replace when replacing the engine:
1. if you don't know about the timing belt, change it. You should probably change the tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, and water pump as well.
2. All the shaft seals that you can get to easily- ESPECIALLY the rear main seal, as these are prone to failure and the engine or trans has to come out to do it
3 The PCV system. Get one of the kits from FCP, which has everything, but call them and ask for genuine Volvo hose nipples. The URO parts/ Scan tech ones they send with the regular kit don't hold up as well. It'll be a bit more money, but worth it in the end.
4. Optional: change the oil pan o- rings. Again, get the kit from FCP, and get the sealer from the dealer. (heh, nice rhyme) The stuff FCP sells for this is NOT the right stuff. You need an anaerobic liquid sealer, FCP sells thick silicone, which causes a flexible layer to form, and the valve cover and oil pan on these cars is structural, meaning you don't want any flex! The Volvo stuff is actually cheaper than other anaerobic sealers- the big tubes at the auto parts store are like $30. The dealer near me sells the stuff for $18. Use a trim paint roller to apply. This is optional- it's not that much harder to do with the engine in place, but the o- rings eventually crack, which causes low oil pressure, so it's a good idea to do it before they fail.

5. All new filters: Oil, air, and fuel
6. New spark plugs.

Take your time, do it right, and good luck!

 

Thanks Carrots,
I have the replacement motor on my garage floor.
I took off the timing belt cover and the Volvo belt, etc are brand new!

Very interesting about that 4 spd automatic transmission.
The mechanic who is dropping the engine out the bottom insist on changing to genuine Volvo oil. Perhaps he has worked on later models.

I will remind him to change the rear motor seal.
I notice that it is part of many timing belt kits.

All the plugs, harness, and distributor parts have just been replaced on my old engine but the replacement ones look very good so I think I will just keep that engine in my little 1800 sf garage for backup.