I've scanned through here trying to find a similar issue with no success. Have had an Engine Service Required displayed in left hand text window for several weeks (ex-wife's car/ '99 S80 non-turbo) but no apparent driveability issues, and yellow Check Engine light in right hand display doesn't come on (bulb good on key ON). Yesterday, she pulled into main road and had 'shuddering' (like bad misfires?) and couldn't get speed over 20. Got it back to driveway and parked it. I started and drove last evening, drove ok but 'URGENT SERVICE REQUIRED' was in left hand display (this was a first), STILL no Check Engine Light! Went to O'Reilly's and plugged in their OBD-11 analyzer to see WTH. Said NO DTC's. I erased anyway and URGENT Service display went off. Drove with NO errors on display for about 20 miles. Half hour later, started and Engine Service Required came back onto TEXT display.. Went back, borrowed OBD-11 analyzer again, NO DTC codes present, and erased again. Today, friend had a 'high dollar' (Snap-On) analyzer (albeit without special Volvo programming). It also showed no DTC's, but gave an ID 11 Engine Controller and ID 1F Transmission Controller code. I know something's wrong here, but Volvo dealer on North side of Indianapolis said THEY couldn't get codes last fall when she took in for similar (or same) display. Am I looking at high dollar scanner to find this issue or another dealership, maybe? Nice car when it's not 'burping', but thinking about getting it fixed one last time and then...... Any input greatly appreciated. GF doesn't like me working on ex's car!

 

service engine soon message is usually a dealer specific code which will not be read with a generic OBD-II code reader. Avoid driving the car if the warning triangle is red! They do this so they can get your money. I would suggest you plug your scanner into the car and look at the values of the TPS and MAF sensors. I think at operational temps the TPS will be around 12% and MAF will be about 0.43 lb/m at idle. If they check good then look at LT and ST fuel trim values. LT should be +/-10. If higher look for vacuum leak. Check the exhaust at the tail pipe to see if it is puffing to indicate a misfire. If a misfire it detected you can start car and unplug the wire harness to a coil to see if it changes the performance of engine. If no change is detected then you know you have a bad coil or bad wiring to the coil of that cylinder. Does the idle surge like it is searching for the correct rpm? Is it going up and down continuously on it's own? ETM is usually the case for this at idle, which a good cleaning should fix. While driving if it all of a sudden jumps up or down in rpm's then look at TPS. If you smell a strong gas smell at exhaust and don't find a definite misfire then I would look at the Cam Sensor throwing time off.

 

Thanks for the info, Lunger! The car is, and has been running fine besides the 'shuddering' episode which I didn't experience. But from what you've said, I need to be able to look at the different components like the throttle position sensor, electronic throttle module, etc. which I can't read with any analyzer I've used yet.. I've seen cheap obd 11 analyzers online that say 'works w/Volvo', but have also read in these forums that I need a high dollar one. Can you recommend one that reads your aforementioned values of these components?

 

I use an Actron CP9580. It's not the best but for the price it gets the job done. I've used it on Toyota, Dodge, Saturn, Infiniti, and Volvo cars and trucks. I think I got it on Amazon for $150. I chose that one because it will read ABS codes on some vehicles as well. Like I stated previously it will not read service engine soon messages, but only MIL or Check engine light codes. Also it has definition readout so you don't have to search what the code number means.

 

The Snap-On scanner your friend had will tell you the readings of everything you need to look at. Don't worry about getting the code as you will need Volvo dealership software to pull them. You will have to troubleshoot this based on the ranges of everything. Codes help point you in the right direction but can also be misleading. I would lean toward to a faulty TPS or MAF, or dirty ETM based on your description. It might have been placed in "Limp Mode" but by clearing the DTC you will be good until the fault pops up again.

 

Thanks again, Lunger.. Will try to get these readings to see what I'm up against, will post back when I get some input..