1999 S80 T6 p0342 Help!
Hey guys,
My 99 S80 T6 now has ~192,500miles on it and I was honestly thinking of selling it. The problem is that on the way to show it to a guy, the car died. AAA towed it home and I went to the place where I bought the battery and had them do a 'full service test' on the battery that I pulled from the car before it got towed home. The test said the battery was fine.
Later, I got on the phone with iPd. I put a code reader on it and got this code:
P0342 - Camshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit Low Input
With that, I checked the connections and all seemed fine. So I ordered a sensor from iPd. After getting the sensor, I replaced it and the battery was dead. It has been around freezing temps here in Oregon for about a month. So I trickle charged it overnight. Went out there this morning to start it, and it still cranks but it will not start! I pulled the codes again and the same code (P0342) is still on.
My question:
What am I missing? It has been cold so could the fuel lines be frozen? Why would I still throw that code after replacing the sensor with a new genuine Volvo sensor?
Sorry about the long post but I am at a loss.
Thanks guys,
Joel S.
(Side note that may help. After purchasing another vehicle, I let the car sit for about three weeks before driving it again. It ran fine for a few days and then this situation started. The car has now been sitting for a month.)
My 99 S80 T6 now has ~192,500miles on it and I was honestly thinking of selling it. The problem is that on the way to show it to a guy, the car died. AAA towed it home and I went to the place where I bought the battery and had them do a 'full service test' on the battery that I pulled from the car before it got towed home. The test said the battery was fine.
Later, I got on the phone with iPd. I put a code reader on it and got this code:
P0342 - Camshaft Position Sensor 'A' Circuit Low Input
With that, I checked the connections and all seemed fine. So I ordered a sensor from iPd. After getting the sensor, I replaced it and the battery was dead. It has been around freezing temps here in Oregon for about a month. So I trickle charged it overnight. Went out there this morning to start it, and it still cranks but it will not start! I pulled the codes again and the same code (P0342) is still on.
My question:
What am I missing? It has been cold so could the fuel lines be frozen? Why would I still throw that code after replacing the sensor with a new genuine Volvo sensor?
Sorry about the long post but I am at a loss.
Thanks guys,
Joel S.
(Side note that may help. After purchasing another vehicle, I let the car sit for about three weeks before driving it again. It ran fine for a few days and then this situation started. The car has now been sitting for a month.)
Actually, I have not. But which fuse do you believe would be causing the issue. Also, would a single fuse blowing cause the car to stop running and have to be towed away to my house? Please know, I am not belittling your suggestion and question, but I can be a little dense in my thinking without knowing why it would cause such an issue. I am open to all reasonable suggestions.
Thanks again,
Joel
Thanks again,
Joel
I checked all of the fuses (not relays) and they seem to all be good. I even swapped the starter relay fuse with another 25 amp just to see what that would do. I guess the next step is to verify that the belt didn't skip a tooth? I waited until the temperature rose to the 50's F here ensure that my fuel lines were not indeed frozen but I am still stumped. Tech, have any ideas?
Thanks again everyone for your help so far.
Joel Smith
Thanks again everyone for your help so far.
Joel Smith
Its just a comunication error in the computer. Seen it dozens of times. Could be many things causing the low voltage to the cam sensor. Start with a hard battery restart.
With the key on #2 position.
at battery
Remove negative cable first
remove positive cable
take large locking pliers clamp the terminal ends together and suspend them in air with wire or buguie cord.
give it 30 minutes, DO NOT TOUCH THAT KEY IN THE IGNITION!!
hook everything back up in reverse order with the key in the #2 position.
hard battery restart.
With the key on #2 position.
at battery
Remove negative cable first
remove positive cable
take large locking pliers clamp the terminal ends together and suspend them in air with wire or buguie cord.
give it 30 minutes, DO NOT TOUCH THAT KEY IN THE IGNITION!!
hook everything back up in reverse order with the key in the #2 position.
hard battery restart.
check for the basics and go from there spark, fuel injector pulse, fuel pressure, compression, maybe it just flooded out, if you wanna check the cam sensor out there are three wires red blue and black on the harness side blue is signal red is power and black is ground. not sure if it gets the full 12v or not if you get that far i could give you more info but it could just be in the computer for a low voltage situation so i would start with the basics and go from there. clearing the code out and seeing if it comes back would be good idea as lifeisgood said.
Alright, so I just was able to hard reset the system with no results. It popped and sputtered but now, it may be flooded. I'll have to take a look at it further when I am off Tuesday through Thursday this week.
Thanks again,
Joel Smith
Thanks again,
Joel Smith
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