I really need suggestions on my 2000 S80 T-6 to make this as short and direct as I possibly can I will list what I have done to date. It has gone from running three to four hours without stalling to stalling about every half mile. The strange thing is that I can pull the ECU and wait about 15 minutes and it will fire right up and today it would run about 10 minutes at a time then die. This evening I got it started and it idled about an hour without dying then I turned it off and restarted 5 or 6 times without problem. I let it set for about an hour and went back out to start and it will just turn over. I have changed the crankshaft sensor and cleaned the ETM. One thing I have noticed is the STC triangle light will come on when it dies and if it restarts back up it will be on, if I turn it off (engine) for 30 seconds and restart it will be off and the off and on switch will work. I have also checked the fuel pressure at the rail and it holds about 50 pounds for 45 minutes. I have read that some have had problems with fuel pump relays. Can anyone tell me where they are located? Could it be the ETM? When it goes into this state it has no pulse at the injector or fire at the plugs. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I really need suggestions on my 2000 S80 T-6 to make this as short and direct as I possibly can I will list what I have done to date. It has gone from running three to four hours without stalling to stalling about every half mile. The strange thing is that I can pull the ECU and wait about 15 minutes and it will fire right up and today it would run about 10 minutes at a time then die. This evening I got it started and it idled about an hour without dying then I turned it off and restarted 5 or 6 times without problem. I let it set for about an hour and went back out to start and it will just turn over. I have changed the crankshaft sensor and cleaned the ETM. One thing I have noticed is the STC triangle light will come on when it dies and if it restarts back up it will be on, if I turn it off (engine) for 30 seconds and restart it will be off and the off and on switch will work. I have also checked the fuel pressure at the rail and it holds about 50 pounds for 45 minutes. I have read that some have had problems with fuel pump relays. Can anyone tell me where they are located? Could it be the ETM? When it goes into this state it has no pulse at the injector or fire at the plugs. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I had a similar problem with mine which was due to the connector the ECM relay plugs into. This is the relay inside the electrical box which is located just above the ABS module. The socket which the relay plugs into loosened up over time causing the socket to overheat and loose continuity. Socket had to be replaced.

Pull out the relays and look for discoloration of the sockets or melting of the plastic cover between the relays and the sockets.

It is a long shot but could be your problem.

 

I have almost 0 fuel pressure after three weeks of stalling. I am ready to replace fuel pump but want to make sure that’s what it is. The only time the fuel pump works is when you first turn the key on for about 2 seconds then nothing and the pressure is minimal at best. I disconnected the fuel line from the pump and after the initial squirt it has nothing even when turning the engine over. The pressure at the fuel rail is almost nonexistent and is if you bleed the rail. I have the seat out and am ready to order replacement but would like to have advice on what else I should replace in the tank if anything. The car is a 2000 S80 T-6.

 

You say it runs for about 2 seconds. Does the pump develop pressure during this time and how much? If it does develop pressure, it is probably not the pump.

You mention 0 pressure but not sure when this occurs.

I am not familiar how this works in Volvo's but most cars have a circuit which runs pump for about 2-3 seconds as soon as you turn on key. If the circuit recieves a signal the engine is cranking or running, it keeps the pump running. If the circuit or signal to it is bad, the pump may not keep running.

If you are not developing pressure and you hear pump running, could very well be the pump.

Suggest you buy a kit which includes all in tank parts. Cost about $230 through Rock Auto, possibly less from others.

Try taking off the tank filler cap to see if it helps. Had a situation previously with a weak pump and removing the cap would release the suction in the tank and allow the pump to work.

 

Up until Saturday I had 50# of constant pressure with stalling after 15 to 60 minutes, now the pump does kick on when you turn the key on but its so weak that shows 0 pressure. If you drain in at the rail less than an ounce with minimal pressure (0 on gauge). I unhooked line at pump and the pressure is weak when you turn the key on and nothin will you crank the engine. I have a pump I bought at the dealer yesterday (get discount father in law owns body shop) so cost was about same as internet pricing. I have changed all relays around to make sure that was not the problem. I am just stuck thinking why would pump pickup small anount when you turn key on nothin during cranking. I know the pump is 12 years old and will need changing sooner or later (if not now). Just want the car to run. I have tried the cap and that didn't help.

 

Let us know how you make out with the pump.

 

Not the problem but fuel pressure is back

 

Suggest you find someone with a Volvo scan tool and clear the codes then pull the codes to see what you find. Your conventional scan tool will not pull all engine codes but you can try if you have one.

 

My car has been in the shop for two weeks now and the mechanic's computer showed the camshaft sensor was bad and he replaced. The car started right up after replacing the part. It sit six day in the shop over the holiday. He started putting it back together today so I could pick it up. He tried to start this morning and it would not start it would just crank and crank. The signal from cam and crank sensors are going to ECU but no fire at coils this was the same issue as when I took it in. He is really guessing from here and is just trying to toubleshoot wiring. Does anyone have any ideas to share?

 

I am 3 months into repairing my 2000 S80 T6, after several garages and untold amounts of money. I have replaced cam sensor, crank sensor and fuel pump, checked fuses and relays wiring for correct ohm and resistance, checked grounds, etc. The car went thru a period of stalling then to periodical starting to a complete no start. It has no pulse at the injector or fire at the plugs. The current shop is focusing on the ECU. I sent it out to be tested and the company rebuilt the unit and when I received it back it still would not start, the problem being relayed to me is that it’s not communicating (talking). Has anyone encountered anything like this? I have sent the unit back for further repair, but I’m wondering if anyone has any other ideas or have experienced this problem.

 

I would say it's the computer but it could be something stupid like the fuel inertia switch cutting the fuel pump off. are you checking power at the pump when you are checking pressure? if you don't have power then you won't have pressure.

 

as far as the spark goes I would check the connectors in the cam sensor plug. you might have a connector loose going to the plug. I would try hardwiring it with a jumper to see if that fixes it.