I have the car mentioned and it's hard to start if it starts at all . A little history on the car .I bought it last year from a guy who said it jumped time so I went ahead and replaced the motor . After replacing the motor in order to start it I would have hold the pedal and turn the key for upwards of 5 seconds and it took several attempts. After starting the motor would shake as though it was misfiring so I scanned it with an Actron scanner and got the codes for cylinder 4 and 5 and the crankshaft position sensor . So I replaced those coils with new ones and the misfire is still there I also related the crank senor but not with a new one . Also I will add the motor I replaced it with has 57k miles and the plugs are new I replaced the stock plugs with Ngk. After racking my brain with this car I dropped it to the dealer and they were basically useless. They told me of the crank sensor may be bad or the wire to it may be bad and that it's possible insufficient ground between the block and transmission(possible) or a bent flywheel (no possibility ). They also want to take the engine out just to figure out a no start issue .I was like wtf push my car out my question is , is there a ground wire between the block and transmission that I could be missing? And has anyone had a similar problem if so what was replaced or repaired? The tach goes haywire when trying to start it which leads me to suspect an ECM issue.

 

Fundamentals, man. This sort of work is all about fundamentals. For example, just imagine if the original owner merely had water in his gas tank, and no other problems. You be exactly where you are.


But anyway, you can make a car run, or figure out why it won't, using fundamentals and good diagnostic tools and procedures. Knowing how everything works helps a ton. Most of us will never have a breakout box to check ECM wiring, so there are some checks that are hard to do. But not impossible.


Also, "the internet" seems very focused on codes. The data and measurements made by the ECM are much more interesting and useful than the codes, so you need a good scan tool.


Finally, a good substitute for most anything you don't have or can't do is a 2nd 2002 S80 which runs fine. If you had that, your troubleshooting IQ would soar.

 

I'm a 25 year GM mechanic and this is the first Volvo I have own so knowing how cars work isn't my problem . So you can save being a dick with your "fundamentals" crap. If you don't know simply don't respond .

 

There has been this concept that the mating surface between the block and the transmission caused problems with the ECU because it was "dirty" and there was just no cure whatsoever. I don't know if you can believe that, but I sure can't.


Hope you fix it. I am sorry for sounding stupid. I was just thinking when you buy a car that you've never seen running (and I do it all the time) you never really know where to start. You really can't go by the previous owners, at least I don't.

 

@jaydownsouth

Do not compare US/Japanese cars with Europeans engineered cars. I guess you might take a year or so to understand how these cars work. Good Luck!

 

Bad tach readings proves that. At least the issue is with crank sensor signal.
For T6 Engine for these cars it is common problem after transmission repairs.
It can start troubling you not right after that but in some time.

 

Comments in bold.

 

It could be a number of things... pulling an engine leaves room to screw a lot up.... Im thinking its a sensor of some sort... Try resetting the computer... battery cable of bla bla bla... see if you can start it and usually u can get a code if its missing.... let me know what thd code is....

 

I spoke with a Volvo tech and he suspects the flywheel and suggested I pull the crank sensor and bracket and turn the engine to inspect the flywheel. It appears to be good other than the rust covering. I have reset the computer still no codes and no spark I installed the updated crank sensor bracket and the tach isn't going haywire but the no spark issue remains . The only code it had before was the crank sensor code .

 

Do you see rpms via OBDII during cranking?

 

No, it remained at 0 while cranking it

 

I pulled the transmission the past weekend to clean the surface between the block and transmission cause the block did have some paint on it to make look new and the flywheel looked ok . It was just covered with surface rust . I may have to do the old report it stolen and torch it trick to get my money back out of the car from the insurance claim

 

I'm updating this post since I notice most people don't . I solved the issue by replacing the wiring harness. It seems a short in the wiring was causing fuse #11 for the ignition coils to blow and instead of chasing it down I bought a used harness in near perfect condition for a 125.00 compared to 980.00 new. I'm pleased to say it worked and us running like a champ

 

...Back to what firebird parts said. Fundamentals, and you come out being rude to him.

You should have already checked that fuse before posting here, replaced it, noticed it blew again and you would have had your answer. I'm happy I don't like GM, Even more so if they got guys like you as their mechanics being rude to people after asking them for help.

 

The fuse wasn't blown at the time and furthermore if I was rude why did he apologize. You know what now I will be rude . **** you ! You piece of **** . Did I ask your bitch *** for help ? I really don't give 2 ****'s what you like. Eat a dick and die . I hope that's rude enough for you, asshat

 

That's hilarious.