If i shut off the engine she still might run the fan and drain the battery. She's a 1999 model.

Please help. I ordered a Haynes shop manual but its not here yet or likely to spell it out for me.
Thanks

 

I'm assuming you talking about the cooling fan by the radiator and not the fan that blows the heat and AC out of the vents?

It's normal for the cooling fan to run after the engine is shut off, sometimes not turning on until after the car is turned off.

It's designed to replace/add to normal air flow while driving and keep the cooing systems in normal operating temps. When you run the AC it also does the same for the condenser. It turns on via a temp sensor for (depending on your car) the radiator, AC condenser, transmission cooler, oil cooler, and/or intercooler. When you park and shut off the car you remove air flow and stop circulation for these systems. Heat under the hood has nowhere to go and warms these sensors till they kick on the fan to add air flow.

If it is running abnormally long, would think more than 10 minutes, or when the engine is cold you have problems.

 

Ive got problems
Could it be a sensor for the air conditioning condenser? The fan is still going two days layer but all u can hear is click click click really softly since the battery is wasted away.

 

Not totally sure of how it's wired but check for a cooling fan relay. If it has one, definitely pull it and check it. (Some good YouTube videos out there if you're not sure how to check it) If not pull the fuse and limit diving (no AC for sure) till you have the problem figured out... if nothing works pull the negative battery terminal (car will be inoperable but can save the battery.) Once you stop the fan you need to keep a close eye on the temp gauge. Anything more than 2/3 to high and you need to pull over and stop the engine till it can cool.

I'm off on a date, I'll be happy to look into it further later but will need more specific info (year make model) on the car to do so. Or check the wiring for yourself and look for videos on how to check sensors, relays and what not.

Best of luck.

 

Open fuse boxes touch the relays till you find the one that's clicking.
Find out what that one is and if its related to the fan(s) or A/C and if so pull it and replace with another, charge the batter see what happens when its charged with a good relay in it.

I cant remember I know it seems backwards I think the clicking ones are the stuck ones, I know you would think the stuck ones make no noise. And that could be too.

You can just find the Fan and or A/C relays, pull them, switch them with any others that are the same size and prong then see.
Obviously you don't want to run the car while your missing relays but you say that it does it while the car is off.

 

I misread your reply. Its not the cooling fan its the climate control fan.

 

Oh that or I mis read yours. Here I thought it's your rad fan.
Anyways,
These cars have sensors to run the fan inside to prevent moisture from building up inside. Even with the car off.
There is a fuse to pull for climate control so you can check if this is what your drain is with a dmm.

My battery drain ended up being my alternator I'm in the process of getting it out right now as I type.

I suggest using a dmm and checking the dc amps being pulled from the battery, while looking pull fuses and relays 1 by 1.
I had something like a 4amp draw and once I disconnect my alternator I get 0.09 or so. Which is acceptable. 4A is not and killed my battery in 3hours or so.

 

Well i wish i knew what a dmm was and how to use it. That would make things lots easier on me. You wouldnt happen to live near Alabama would ya?

 

Unfortunately Canada is no where close.
Canada Alberta Edmonton for me, otherwise I'd have no problem helping.

dmm = Digital Multi Meter.
I had a cheap one I got for $15 that is supposed to read amps but wouldn't. So I went and got a better one for $19.99 canadian and it worked perfect.

There are youtube videos showing how to measure parasitic draw.
A parasitic draw obviously is one like mine and yours where it will kill a battery in a short amount of time.
Check a video out and you will see its easy stuff.

You put the DMM in line with the electrical system. I took my negative post off, clamped my DMM positive lead to the negative post, and the DMM negative lead to the negative ground that I removed from the battery.

You do that with the DMM on, set proper to measure Amps. When you first do it the car electronics wake up, let it sit until they sleep. When they do you will see the number drop.

For me I had a 2A drop when the electronics slept. So I saw about 6.1a draw then when it slept it dropped to about 4.1a
So I set out pulling fuses, no fuses or relays dropped the Amp draw so I disconnected the alternator positive under the hood and it dropped from 4.1A to 0.09A which is acceptable.

 

thanks! Come to find out it waz my battery. Probably the guy who had it before me bought a used battery.

 

Heh. Once they go they go. Lots of batteries that go right dead never come back properly from it and won't hold a charge. Others become that way with time.

Hopefully that's all it is. Glad it's sorted.