I'm not sure what you mean by the white marks, but on the upper sprockets there are small grooves cut into the face near the edge of the sprocket, which show up just off the end of the blue lines I have drawn in the pictures. The groves are cut along a radius from the center of the motor. These timing marks need to line up with the notches in the timing belt cover.

On the crankshaft pulley, the mark you can see from the top of the car is a molded ridge which lines up with a 'nub' on the face of the bearing carrier, both are pointed out on the photos with blue lines which end near the marks in question.

 

The pictures were taken of a 2004 2.9L 6 cylinder non-turbo, but the photos in the Haynes manual of the 5 cylinder 2.5L were very similar, and I expect that your 2.8L I-6 would be too.

 

It is indeed a T60 Torx hole on the accessory belt tensioner, but the 1/2" drive socket I got plus the thickness of my breaker bar is too long to fit the space, so the quest continues.

I keep searching for the perfect tool,
Then later I look in the mirror,
Then I search for the tool,
Then I look in the mirror
...

 

A two piece T60 torx socket might work. I have a Craftsman T60 socket, you need a tiny allen wrench to loosen the set screw on the side and remove the torx bit from the socket. Then you can put a 1/2" box wrench on the bit to turn it.

 

I'm tackling this project tomorrow in my driveway, and found your post to be quite helpful. I have a question about the VVT cam... I've heard there is no return spring on the VVT and that it is easy to dislodge. Is this simply referring to the cam sprocket being easy to turn without the load of the belt on it, or does this mean the Cam itself is prone to pulling out beyond where the seal is effective?

Thanks,
Ken

 

That looks perfect! I'll check one out the next time I'm at sears.

 

I believe it is referring to the cam being easy to turn, possibly messing up the VVT setting.

 

Here's another drawing of the timing marks:



I found that the drawing for the crankshaft pulley is not very helpful. The marks you need to see on the pulley itself would be hidden in this view. I spent too much time trying to spot the little black dash between the teeth only to find out after I removed the pulley that it isn't really there. The camshaft marks are quite clear on the drawing.

 

Quick Question: What is the purpose of removing the engine stabilizer brace (strut bar) when performing a timing belt change. This was a step in the VADIS instructions.
Thanks

 

Possibly for the cam tool?

 

Okay, it sounds like removing it would allow more clearance for special tools but it is not neccessary.

 

That's what I'm thinking...

 

I read through your timing belt instructions and I am trying to line up all the tools needed . What type of puller will I need to remove the accy. crank pulley.

 

I used a fairly ordinary three-jaw gear puller, just like this one.

 

I'm doing a complete timing belt, tensioner, idler, water pump etc. job on my 2004 S80 2.9L. The part I can't seem to figure out is how to get the water pump out from between the engine and chassis (stupid, I know). I just can't seem to find the right rubix cube moves to get it out. I thought I could get more room by taking the timing gear off the crank, but I can't get it off the end of the crank. I loosened it with a puller, but it won't clear the chassis to come off the end of the shaft. Has anyone done this on this particular vehicle? Thanks.

 

It is a major pain. One thing you can do is remove the engine mount on the right side and raise to lower the motor.

 

That's exactly what I did on the same year/model/engine. I had enough clearance, though not by much. Even though it seems like a hack job, you could always remove a little of the inner fender with a grinder or bend it back with a big pliers, or ... to gain a little more clearance.

 

Shoot, I didn't think of removing a motor mount. I ended up doing something I HATE to do. I bent the very lower edge of the chassis metal out just a little bit (about 1/8"). Just enough to get the timing belt pulley to slide off the crank. After doing that, the water pump wasn't too bad to wriggle out of there.

Speaking of water pumps, what a nightmare. I first bought a new GMB (P/N 190-1070), and the toothed pulley ended up being too narrow. The original Aisin part had a pulley that was 30mm wide, the timing belt is 27mm wide, the pulley on the new GMB pump was 25mm wide - do the math. I then went to get a Tru Flow pump from NAPA (Gates part). That pump had a 30mm wide pulley, but the pulley had a significantly larger diameter. How do they sell this stuff! Long story short, I ended up ordering an Aisin pump from FCP - it had better be right.

 

OK, got the new Aisin water pump and the pulley was correct. Got it installed - I even got my 1/4" drive torque wrench in there and torqued it to spec.

Now... Yes, I ended up messing up the intake cam position. Don't ask - yes, I know better. Anyway, when you pull the cam position sensor housing to check the orientation of the slot in the end of the cam, all you see is the sensor trigger doohicky (appropriate name considering the shape) attached to the end of the cam. I can't find in VADIS where it covers removing this part and therefore have no torque spec for replacing it. Does anyone know how to positively check the cam position just by looking at the sensor trigger orientation? Yeah, I screwed up, but maybe we can all learn more about our cars from this.

 

There are multiple publications from many sources "including service manuals" telling how to set the pulleys and it appears they do not agree.

I have seen the same drawing below from other sources and found it to conflict with the pictures which One Norse attached to this thread on 8/29/10 at 8:01PM (also shown below).

Note in the "drawing" below, the crank shaft timing mark is between 2 teeth. When I did mine, I never found a mark between 2 teeth.

Note in the "actual picture" which One Norse sent, the timing mark is on top of the tooth (not between 2 teeth). I attached the picture below.

If you line the mark on the engine to the space between the 2 teeth, at the best your timing will be off by 1/2 a tooth.

When I do this again, I will line up the two cam pulleys with the plastic cover then put a matching mark on the crank pulley and engine to locate the crank shaft pulley. I would also get an inspection mirror and see if I can find the timing mark on the back of the pulley to verify it lines up with the "little protrusion at the rib corner" as he shown in the engine photo. As he noted, this protrusion is very hard to see.